Eau du Sud (1995)
by Annick Goutal

Annick Goutal, as a house, has found a way to 'recreate' most typically categorical fragrances and deliver them to both men and women in a, somehow, new and stimulating way. Rarely does a Goutal creation lean heavily into the masculine or feminine realm - and, most importantly, there is always something remarkably beautiful in the composition that makes it unique and original from all interpretations of similar fragrances that have come before...and after. Mrs. Goutal was an olfactory artist who found the magical ability (like all true geniuses) to create a "canvas of notes" that we can relate to, but blend them and create a tonality and sentiment that evokes something very different from what expectations were set. Eau du Sud is a perfect example of this artist's work...and truly brilliant!!

From the Annick Goutal site: "Eau du Sud awakens memories of Annick's travels in Provence and Tuscany. This fragrance conjures up carefree summers, the caressing warmth of the sun, and long evenings when daylight seems to last forever.

A fragrance that makes you want to bite into a delectably juicy fruit and quench your thirst with cool water on a fresh sunny day under the shade of Roman arches.

Olfactory family : Citrus, Chypre, Green (Bergamot, Persian lime, grapefruit, mandarine, verbena, peppermint, basil, hint of jasmine and vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss)"

I have to say that what comes forth is deep yet fragrant, citric as well as herbal and with depth and richness that is rarely found in this realm. I have tried Eau d'Hadrien many times and as much as I want to compare this...I cannot. Each is unto itself. I recently found and added Hadrien Absolu to my collection, as it too, reflected an incredible richness that is beguiling in a citrus scent - yet incredibly wearable and, without hesitation...unisex. My appreciation for Goutal's work (and the house since she has passed - kudos to Camille and the Goutal folks for keeping her brilliance alive) is unrelenting. She is, in my mind, one of the finest non-traditional, artistically-mindful and sentimental perfumers whose work I am fascinated by, in every olfactory canvas she has shared with us...simply and truly, magnificent pieces. I liken her work to the Expressionist Art movement of the early 1900's - there is a timeless feel to everything she has created...and that is because it comes from "within". She created bottles that were from her life's olfactory memories. I am, forever, thankful. I do not rate any of her bottles - as I say in virtually all of my reviews of the house of Annick Goutal's work, one cannot quantify her artistic presentation with a fractional value. And, the torch has been passed to Camille - who has carried on the seminal work her late mother created wonderfully.

Eau du Sud is, simply, gorgeous and breathtaking. I have traveled to Provence and Tuscany and feel a distinct connection to both places in this bottle - memories of a lifetime are in this composition that I can relate to.

The listed notes, as per the Goutal website, perhaps with a lighter amount of oakmoss in current formulation due to IFRA regulation, but there is a nice, warm moss and undertone here that all of us get, something slightly smoky, herbaceous and penetrating - the wonderful patchouli...creating a gorgeous base from which the quenching, fresh-squeezed citrus and bouquet of fresh-cut herbs radiate their natural sparkling and fragrant beauty. Bergamot, Verbena/Lemon Verbena, Grapefruit, Persian lime, Mandarin, Basil, Mint, a light touch of penetrating and fresh-blooming jasmine still on the vine...together, compose the melange of radiating and extremely natural aromatics on the top and in the heart. The aforementioned oakmoss offers its depth (in older formulation) and the vetiver, although clean, is an expression of light, fragrant woodiness that further sharpens the composition in the base (keeping it from getting too dark during the dry down).

This is harmonious and beautiful - equally on a man or woman. The only requirement, like all Goutal's bottlings, is that one wear this with an understanding and sense of taste & refinement...as it is a gorgeous composition. It can be worn casually (please do not confuse my statement), but intelligence and having knowledge of Goutal's vision is a requirement to fully appreciate it.

Undeniably, stunning and fantastic...an honest & beautiful expression from Annick Goutal that, like so many of her other creations, is transcendent. Ahhhh, the wonder and amazement only deepens...as does my undying admiration for her expressionistic works of art. Eau du Sud is a divine creation.

Merci, Annick. Merci! Reposer en paix...for we are forever grateful that you shared your beautiful palate and vision with us.

02 May, 2013

Eau de Sud is an intense experience: a charge of citrus, rosemary, and pine with notes of cumin below. It’s like a fanciful portrayal of the sun-scorched maquis, at high noon, in a Mediterranean climate. Or alternately: hard (sweaty) labor in a lemon grove in August. The wallop of citrus, as a top note, is impossible to ignore. The middle notes are like a bouquet of herbs. Pine sap and resins are also prominent at this level. Some musky or even leathery notes are humming along in the understory. No marine notes and no florals to speak of: it’s scarcely sweet at all, which is brilliant.

There’s not much subtlety to it, perhaps: it has excellent staying power, and the nature of the experience doesn’t change much over time. It’s forceful, but at the same time it smells very polished and elegantly balanced. A summertime favorite.

March 17, 2013

08 March, 2013 (Last Edited: 18 March, 2013)

I
A blast of citrus, mediterranean fruits, fluidy vetiver and aromatic herbs are the stuff you catch for the most part of the faint development before a sour oakmoss-patchouli takes the scene. The juice is not properly a favourite of mine and i smell it too tart for my full pleasure but it turns out natural, aromatic and pleasantly fresh. Feminine with a touch of floral natural subtleness.

24 August, 2012

My original rating for this scent was a mere 1 star. Not because it's a poor fragrance, but because citrus scents weren't my thing and I found the eau de cologne genre to be uninteresting. Since then, I've come to appreciate green and citrus scents, and I think this is rather lovely for spring and summer days. As others have noted, the citrus is prevented from veering into cleaning product territory by the lovely basil/herbal note. I also definitely perceive a likeness between this fragrance and Chanel's Cristalle. From memory, Cristalle is a little heavier and more leathery due to the presence of the oakmoss.

06 June, 2012

This was the first perfume I ever bought for myself. By that I mean that this is the first fragrance I purchased purely because it pleased me, with no regard to what anyone else might think (or the cost!).

The first time I tried it was at a small tea room in Biltmore Village in Asheville, NC. It was raining and I had cancelled our outdoor work for the day. We went to the Tea Room to have a cuppa and when we walked in the gentleman at the perfume counter was unpacking perfume from Goutal. We talked for a moment and then he said, I think you ought to try this one, handing me a small tester vial of Eau du Sud.

In first moment I smelled it I felt like a grown up woman. Really, at over 40 I finally knew what it felt like to smell like a real woman. Lusty, subtle, citrusy, with smooth floral middle notes that dry down into a less sweet, not too tangy, sophisticated smoky aroma. I closed my eyes and imagined being in a beautiful boudoir of a hotel on the Cote d' Azur.

I have read that Goutal named this scent for an encounter she had in the south of France. it must have been one hell of an encounter.

Best regards,
Katherine d'Armagh

13 February, 2012

Unlike other reviewers here on this page, I didn't get much in the way of citrus in Eau de Sud, despite it being a citrus aromatic.

I find Eau de Sud perhaps more herbaceous and soapy. Almost peppery, especially in the opening.

I like the fresh characteristic of this fragrance, however I find it a little too sharp at times. I'm not really a citrusy or soapy person, so this fragrance isn't really my cup of tea. But for the sake of it being a fragrance from my most loved perfume house, I'd say it is one of the best.

It's lightly feminine on the skin which is something I absolutely adore. For that fact alone, I agree that Eau de Sud would make a lovely choice for those particularly humid days.

Robin on her blog, Now Smell This, mentioned an interesting smokiness, being quite distinctive, which emerged quite prominently in the drydown. Although I had not noticed this initially, once reading her statements and returning to this fragrance, I must agree. The smokiness disrupts the soapy sharpness, which ultimately smoothed out the scent considerably.

I find some similarities between this fragrance and Chanel's Cristalle, although they are not complete replicates.

The lasting power of Eau de Sud, in the eau de toilette concentration is pretty weak unfortunately. This is also one of Annick Goutal's lighter fragrances that don't depend upon the wonderful sillage to create a beautiful aura. Eau de Sud is a fragrance for those that enjoy their soft, clean and crisp scents.

14 November, 2011