I should have taken Way Off Scenter's review more literally and with more weight.
His review was the first negative, mine is the 2nd.
I am on the warpath to find a coffee centered fragrance, and let me say, this aint it!
I dont get much coffee in this at all really, which is a huge disappointment considering how many times I've seen this one recommended for coffee enthusiasts.
Its a sweet patchouli and myrrh with incense in the background.
I do get a fleeting "cigarette ash", but its not prominent.
There is a floral in here that I cant put my finger on that adds to the sweetness.
To me, this resembles Prada Amber Pour Homme Intense the most.
The Myrrh/Patchouli combo is prominent in both compositions.
The Prada is much more wearable with its rounded, soapy nature.
I'd even go as far as to say the Prada is richer, more focused.
The scent may be a masterpiece in the eyes of a few, but I would think the large majority of people would not find this fragrance worth more than a sample.
Sample this thing first, dont be a fool like me an blind buy it.
Even at the very reasonable price I bought it for, personally, I dont think its worth it.
If you must own a coffee centered fragrance by this house, go for Santal Noble.
Shockingly bitter and smoky when it first goes on, just like a strong, bad cigarette. After a few minutes I can tell there's some very dry leather under there, and just a hint of really burnt coffee.
These elements never fully integrate on my skin, and I'm left with something reminiscent of a filthy ashtray full of coffee grounds which, having been soaked in lighter fluid, burn to leave a twisting column of acrid black smoke. You've got to hand it to this perfume house: whatever they do, they do it big!
The opening is remarkable: smoky, toasted Robusta coffee beans, just delicious. After three hours a floral note emerges, with ylang-ylang, white lily and galbanum - a very nice play with contrasts. After about six hours a vetiver with a raisinous wood note plays with transient appearances of a moss note in a nigh-chypre fashion, just to return to a smoky wood note and back in cycles, with even a hint of birch on my skin. This is very well blended of high-quality ingredients, with good silage and projection. Longevity-wise this is in me a stupendous monster, lasting around seventeen hours. A creative, brilliant creation; superb for autumn.
Smoke and smiles
Eau des Iles by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier really makes me smile. It opens up with a huge eye-watering dose of smoke and coffee while a timid, yet pretty yellow floral note is trapped inside. Actually, I just read Alfarom’s review and that is basically how I perceive Eau des Iles. Also, there is something reminiscent of the late 80s hippy revival in the fragrance, yet it feels completely plausible that Eau des Iles could have been released in 2013. This is a must try for all fragrance collectors, especially incense fans. I’m very impressed, although I’m not sure how much I would reach for Eau des Iles if I owned a full bottle.
I'm sure there's more going on here than I seem to think, but I'm going to attempt to explain the overall impression I'm getting. Eau des Iles (my keyboard don't got fancy French stuff) is a brutally arid woody fragrance. It's just as dry as can be, like wood that's been left out in the sun in the desert for years. There is also a strong coffee note accompanying this dry wood, and in the background there's a wee bit of leather. There's also some more beautiful subtlety beneath the layers, but it's just seems like highlights and shading.
This is a wonderful masculine that I cannot recommend highly enough. It never approaches the offensiveness that other masculines can (even though that offensiveness is often part of the pleasantness) and it also never tries to be gourmand. I only mention the gourmand part because when I learn that a fragrance contains coffee notes I usually assume that it's going to be gourmandy.