I waited a long time to get my hands on a sample of Eau du Fier, and I put it on with much anticipation. The scent opens with an intense burst of orange juice, (like concentrate from a can,) joined quickly by a very literal smoke note. And that's about it. These two notes are so isolated that I hesitate to call them an accord. Instead, they play like two completely independent tunes, juxtaposed in the manner of Charles Ives. The gesture is bold, but I don't think it's altogether convincing, especially since it churns over a very thin base. In fact, the whole scent feels to me like an olfactory stunt - at least until the orange note fades out. After that I'm left with a very smoky leather drydown with a major barbecue vibe.
Novel and arresting? Absolutely. A satisfying fragrance? About that I'm not so sure.
Just out of curiosity I have ordered a sample of "Eau du Fier". I had no expectations, so I was neither terribly disappointed nor pleasantly surprised when I smelled it. Yes it is dark and dry, and yes it is smoky, but also very synthetic and one-dimensional. It is absolutely no competition for "Dark Aoud" and "Bois d’Ascese" respectively. Sniffed up-close it is dizzying, smelled from distance it smells like an ordinary shower gel/shampoo underlined with smokiness. Some compared it with smoked tea (Lapsang Souchong), but because I haven’t smelled the tea I can't confirm that. Although it is a very strong scent its longevity is quite short on my skin. "Eau du Fier" is already discontinued which is not not a big loss for the perfume-world and if I had never sampled it that wouldn’t be a tragedy either!
Opens with only a second's worth of a just barely perceptible fresh mint before turning into a smokey burnt rubber accord with a mild tea undertone. The rubbery birch bark is by far the dominant note and it overpowers everything else on my skin (as an aside, I can definitely understand the comparison SirSlarty made to BBQ Chicken). Projection is minimal, but longevity is excellent.
I wish I could say this one appealed to me, but the birch bark is just too much. Eau du Fier just does not have enough going on to keep my interest long. It, like Cuir from Mona di Orio makes the error of just being *too* smokey, instead of using the smoke to complement other notes. I don't hate Eau du Fier, but I definitely don't enjoy wearing it and can't recommend it. 2 stars out of 5... Not good.
06th May, 2012 (last edited: 19th December, 2012)
Eau du Fier is an uncompromising scent for those who love smoky birch tar in a dry, non-animalic setting.
I have been thinking about why I love this scent, in the context of Off Scenter's review below. What is remarkable to me is the top and mid-note lineup of this fragrance: bitter orange, mint, osmanthus, clove, tea. All of these are easily discernable in the development of the scent.
What Eau du Fier is not: sweet (vanilla, tonka, amber) and animalic. The result is often perceived as synthetic (rubbery, etc) by those who do not love the coolness of the blend. But for those who are looking for birch tar in an absolutely unique context, this scent satisfies.
In many ways, this can be seen as the bass version of something like Lutens Daim Blond, which also combines apricot (osmanthus) and suede leather (in fact, I have tried layering the two, which extends each scent by an octave in each direction).
Along with Sables, one of the best Goutal fragrances.
07th July, 2011 (last edited: 08th August, 2011)
This is a transcendental scent.