A terse mix of bitter orange, grapefruit an a hint of mint leaf make up the opening blast, that is followed soon by an explosive outburst of black tea. This is a harsh black, harsher than Murdock's, a deep tannin-laden tea that in some aspects reminds me of the famous Lapsang Souchong opening of Bvlgari Black.
Soon a hard, fragrant leather is added, with less of a gasoline undertone than in Knize Ten, but of
similar quality except that this is a bit darker. The leather's similarities with Peau d'Espagne are indeed interesting. The leather is smokier than Tuscan leather.
Later on in the drydown the smoky component of the leather-tea dyad becomes stronger, underline by a clove-derived spiciness and, most formidably by and added pinch of birch tar. This smokiness has a burning character and dominates the development in my skin until the end.
The performance is sensational, with strong sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of twelve hours.
This is a smoky burning leathery black-tea powerhouse, and the gutsiest and one of the most remarkable creations of this formidable house. Hardly for wear in the office, but great a a leisure scent, on cold winter days around the open fireplace or outdoors. Whilst the individual components are not exactly strikingly original, the quality of the ingredients is excellent, the blending well done and the overall result delicious. 3.75/5.
Oftentimes in the world of perfumery, I get the impression that consumers and reviewers are new parents, praising and making much of what junior has come up with in his scent laboratory, wanting to be supportive and loving, irregardless of the actual outcome.
Such is the case with Eau du Fier. Just because someone was clever enough to come up with a blend of oils that resembles clove and intense Chinese Black tea, there is also the question of whether it is appropriate to market this scent as a cologne.
Barbara Herman likens its intensity to the classic Peau d'Espagne. She is correct. That scent is too powerful to be accepted in today's world. It was created in a different century, one in which perfumes were used to mask otherwise untended body odors.
Eau du Fier is right at home in that world. Very strong, very intense Lapsang tea, mixed with clove and a hint of mint. I get no orange and the green note of birch bark is barely perceptible.
Turin describes it as a "leathery tea," resembling the interior of a new car. Well, in his world of leather seated Ferraris, perhaps. 4 Stars for originality.
Considering its resemblance to Peau d'Espagne, I cannot credit originality, only cleverness in recreating a classic scent with chemical equivalents to the real ingredients.
Either way it is as unpleasant now as it was in the late 19th century.
I waited a long time to get my hands on a sample of Eau du Fier, and I put it on with much anticipation. The scent opens with an intense burst of orange juice, (like concentrate from a can,) joined quickly by a very literal smoke note. And that's about it. These two notes are so isolated that I hesitate to call them an accord. Instead, they play like two completely independent tunes, juxtaposed in the manner of Charles Ives. The gesture is bold, but I don't think it's altogether convincing, especially since it churns over a very thin base. In fact, the whole scent feels to me like an olfactory stunt - at least until the orange note fades out. After that I'm left with a very smoky leather drydown with a major barbecue vibe.
Novel and arresting? Absolutely. A satisfying fragrance? About that I'm not so sure.
Just out of curiosity I have ordered a sample of "Eau du Fier". I had no expectations, so I was neither terribly disappointed nor pleasantly surprised when I smelled it. Yes it is dark and dry, and yes it is smoky, but also very synthetic and one-dimensional. It is absolutely no competition for "Dark Aoud" and "Bois d’Ascese" respectively. Sniffed up-close it is dizzying, smelled from distance it smells like an ordinary shower gel/shampoo underlined with smokiness. Some compared it with smoked tea (Lapsang Souchong), but because I haven’t smelled the tea I can't confirm that. Although it is a very strong scent its longevity is quite short on my skin. "Eau du Fier" is already discontinued which is not not a big loss for the perfume-world and if I had never sampled it that wouldn’t be a tragedy either!
Opens with only a second's worth of a just barely perceptible fresh mint before turning into a smokey burnt rubber accord with a mild tea undertone. The rubbery birch bark is by far the dominant note and it overpowers everything else on my skin (as an aside, I can definitely understand the comparison SirSlarty made to BBQ Chicken). Projection is minimal, but longevity is excellent.
I wish I could say this one appealed to me, but the birch bark is just too much. Eau du Fier just does not have enough going on to keep my interest long. It, like Cuir from Mona di Orio makes the error of just being *too* smokey, instead of using the smoke to complement other notes. I don't hate Eau du Fier, but I definitely don't enjoy wearing it and can't recommend it. 2 stars out of 5... Not good.
06th May, 2012 (last edited: 19th December, 2012)