Eau Sauvage (1966)
by Christian Dior

It's the "Eau" in Eau Sauvage that resonates for me. Right or wrong, I think of this as an update of the classic Eau de Cologne formula, with a more lush blend of herbs in the heart and a woody flourish in the base. It doesn’t seem all that “sauvage” in a market that includes things like Muscs Koublaï Khän and Parfum d’Habit, but it’s a classic: dignified without being stuffy, elegant without pretense, and eminently wearable. A great standby for daily wear and business.

There's no REFORMULATION that inspires this reaction in me quite like Eau Savage. "He was always great for all these years and now this...we never knew."

Yeah, the problem is in the middle, and efforts to reel in the topnotes crowd (and cheaping out and regging out?) have turned it into in the best case scenario: a summer scent?

Seriously I am literally so bored with retries, trying to get back to what it was and as we frequently say "trying to like this" but the trajectory of this masterpeice was ending up a summer scent...with an offputting middle.

Yeats might have written in his later years:

Once Refinement tumbled into bed;
Now the sheet is half-drawn:
Joy faked, death not...

Masterpiece summer scent?

At first smell I thought of diluted furniture polish, an oily lemon balm. After application, it becomes fresh, zesty, clean, citric, mossy and herbal. It is a well balanced, sophisticated, refined fragrance that is perfect for casual summertime or springtime events. It is weak-wearing, and dries down into a light, citric, subtle sillage. I recommend this classic scent, it will never go out of style.

ES opens with a blast of lemon tempered with an herbal bouquet of lavender, thyme, basil, and cumin, which lend themselves to a good level of projection and longevity. Sauvage’s opening is a little strong for my taste, but it is a very good fragrance overall. After the opening, the floral heart of indoles like jasmine, rose, and lilac make themselves known in a smooth but edgy floral accord that gives way to a woody, musky, mossy base. ES certainly has something animalic about it—perhaps the cumin, which was drawn from Edmond Roudnitska’s early Eau de Hermes?

It's quite ironic that 'Eau Sauvage' is literally translated to mean: 'The scent of one who is natural, primitive, or free of artifice'...
Because Dior's 'Eau Sauvage' is the definitive 'gentleman's' scent(I think everyone concurs.). And what is a 'gentleman', if he is not the master of civility, affect and cultivation ?

To elaborate, the hermeneutics of the "gentlemanly arts" reveal an elaborate and seemingly endless repertoire of easily-interpreted signals and behaviors. Which include physical mannerisms, modes of dress, gracious acts, demonstrations of intellect and good taste, and of course subtle flairs to the more primal sensory inference -- like well-chosen fragrances. In short, the 'gentleman' himself is a refined methodology, an elaborate congress of cultivations, who imparts to the world his particular, well-crafted identity...

But, WHY??

A gentleman is always a true comfort to others; He is not only clearly disciplined and considerate (he would *have* to be to take on such a project of honing his very persona.), but he is also nonthreatening (In fact, he 'cares' enough to make the effort!). He is approachable, and he radiates sincerity. He also, because he veers clear of selfish and unstable outward demonstrations, creates an air of sensibility. And he also, thus, makes a venerable authority figure.
Moreover, despite all of his "polish", he avoids ostentation and gauche conceit: he is refined, not vain. He is a pleasure to come accross...so satisfyingly fully-realized.

Of course, his choice of fragrance should be fitting --
Neither overbearing nor cheeky, not incongruous to his bearing, certainly not a flash in the proverbial pan, and most of all, not *undignified*.
His fragrance *should* be enduring, understated, easy-to-like, approachable, and discreet!

Naturally, he would chose Eau Sauvage! Naturally it is already his calling card. And, naturally, men who appreciate or aspire to gentility (even if only occasion), keep a bottle of this juice in their collection.

And isn't it *always* the perfect choice -- just like a fine blue cotton shirt -- for all those buttoned-up, yet sentimental affairs? For those occasions when an air of authority and good taste is called for? Isn't it the infallible fallback, so as not to seem 'pushy'... when the outcomes of an evening's activities remain mysterious?

Who, but a boor, *wouldn't* own it?

I wear it sometimes because it reminds me of the very best gentlemen I have known, and because the associations are so dramatic -- just like they did -- it makes me feel lovely, worthwhile, and secure.

The first whiff is nothing short of a 'WOW!' Kudos to Roudnitska for the purported use of hédione to add extra zest to the citrus for this is arguably the best citrus opening bar none. Unfortunately for me that is the best part of EAU SAUVAGE, all 15 minutes of it. I don't get any florals, not even a fleeting note of jasmine, just a mossy and herbal mixture with a rather dated, musty feel - a strong vintage vibe reminding me of the scent's history as a fragrance favored by gentlemen circa 1960s-70s. I must admit I am disappointed that the much talked-about charms of Eau Sauvage escaped me. Perhaps another 5-10 years might provide me with the insights to fully appreciate such a well loved classic.