
Notes: lemon, rosemary, petitgrain, basil, jasmine, rose, iris, oakmoss, vetiver, and musk.
Eau Sauvage (ES), the 1966 classic from Perfumer Roudnitska was groundbreaking in its use of the synthetic hedione molecule. This citrus chypre has influenced many, and while it may have been usurped by other fancy new citruses in the media, it still has the moves which can surprise many.
Opening against a backdrop of clear and light lemons, ES almost immediately generates soft floral notes of rose and jasmine which are rendered "masculine" because of the lemon and petitgrain notes...the petitgrain note isn't too strong so as to introduce an annoying "dry & woody" sensation which lesser citruses do. This supremely light citrus-floral combo mingles for a while before the most intriguing phase of ES comes into play ... its the vetiver note, and at this point ES smells like if you took a whiff of the air after someone who has had too many lemon drop candy let one lose. It smells a bit like lemonade infested with maggots...yet it works. This dirtiness gives ES its fine distinguished character, and it works because its light and balanced. Roudnitska probably knew that to convince people to splash on this dirty water, it had to be a light, balanced, and only slightly offbeat. And judging by the success of ES, he has entirely succeeded in doing so. I dont smell a lot of oakmoss, if at all..compared to another substantial classic, Chanel pour monsieur, ES smells impotent in its oakmoss content. ES lasts a good 7 hours ... there's not much sillage, but someone in close vicinity can certainly smell the dirty-clean vetiver-lemon bubbling on your skin.
ES probably won't wow as many people as it did during the Kennedy era. It might be the old man of citruses, but its definitely no old man scent..it smells as relevant today as it did when it was launched, and few citruses are as balanced and expertly blended. When everything else fails, just grab a bottle of ES. As Donald Trump once said, "If you need Viagra, you are probably with the wrong woman". Apparently Dior has been very faithful to the original formulation of ES....ES don't need no modern molecules to keep up with the spunky new CKOne's of this world. This old timer can still surprise the ladies with its stamina, energy and years of experience.
Rating: 8.5/10