Encens et Lavande (1996)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

On me, the opening is incense, cold and dark. Tarry notes have a dreaded bottom-of-a-cold ashtray effect, but thankfully that doesn't last too long. Dry herbs bring a measure of relief in the heart; effect at this point is almost medicinal. Lavender is the last note to fully emerge. It's odd: I know that the concept of "masculine" and "feminine" scents is largely subjective, and I've never thought of lavender as a masculine scent before. Lavender essential oil was one of my favorite scents to wear long before I was ever interested in perfume as such. But the lavender here is strongly masculine in my mind, even as it gets sweeter and sweeter. This impression is so strong that when I sniff it I almost feel as if a stranger were standing behind me -- a man whose scent is much too sweet. Very odd. I will re-test this one, but right now I can't see myself every feeling comfortable in it. It's interesting though, and I respect it.

Lavander at the top, absolutely gorgeous and true. Dries down to a simple, dry, incense. This one is plain and simple, which makes it wearable - but a little boring too...thumbs up, but just barely.

Exactly what it says on the label - a simple, dry, transparent accord of lavender and frankincense - Encens et Lavande finds Christopher Sheldrake dabbling in Bertrand Duchaufour’s métier. It’s certainly unlike almost anything else in the Serge Lutens lineup. Absent are the candied fruit, syrupy amber, and deep spices that define so much of the Lutens/Sheldrake oeuvre. And where the other Serge Lutens lavender, Gris Clair, is cold, stark, astringent, and even moderately confrontational, Encens et Lavande is warm, soft, and comforting. The only ornaments on Encens et Lavande’s spare frame are a brisk and short-lived lemon top note and base notes of powdery woods and very dry vanilla underpinning the frankincense during the drydown.

Simple as the composition is, its progress from opening to drydown is very much linear. Encens et Lavande endures for several hours on the skin, though its sillage and projection are relatively moderate – especially by the bold standards of this house. In its lean profile and modest weight Encens et Lavande stakes out new territory for Serge Lutens as a brand. On the other hand, it doesn’t necessarily extend the realm of incense or lavender fragrances in any exciting directions. Next to Gris Clair or Vero Kern’s peculiar Kiki, Encens et Lavande is an unadventurous lavender, and next to compositions like Dzongkha, Black Tourmaline, L’Homme Sage, Jubilation XXV, or Zagorsk, its incense is just, well, plain. It’s nice, but I don’t think it’s worth a trip to Paris.

Each of the star ingredients in Encens et Lavande are associated with creating calm or center to one degree or another and the pairing of the two is a wonderful effect. Extremely simple, exquisitely balanced, this fragrance seems to create its own space, one of contemplation and relaxation, and every time I wear it I'm inspired to breathe deeply and just chill out.

An incense lavender. This is the worlds best lavender scent! I love it. Very medicinal fresh young green lavender in the opening that stays present throughout the progression of the scent. Following the fresh piney lavender is a smokey incense that is a cool grey stone smokey incense. A perfect combination of smokey old stone incense with bits of fresh green lavender sprounting up all around it. My highest recommendation.

A soapy, musty, powdery old fashioned lavender that lacks any real punch (unlike the edgy and moody Gris Clair). I kept expecting incense galore, but have gotten only hints of it (mixed with a strong powdery vibe) in the warm drydown.

Great longevity? Yes. Quality of lavender itself? Superb -- as to be expected. Drydown? Pleasant enough, granted. All in all, i have to give this one kudos for quality, if nothing else. Still, Gris Clair is by FAR the better of the two lavender frags, and Encens et Lavande, IMHO, lacks the "oomph" it needs to merit its high price tag.