Very woody tomato leaf and geranium. Like most Penhaligon's it is fresh and clean, and a fair sillage and Projection. Nice change from florals.
This one opens up with a standard woody, citrus accord. Some tomato and raspberry leaves join in and later a littler geranium. There are some aldehydes in there and some florals join in the heart as well. In the base, some hints of vetiver, sandalwood and musk come through. There is a lot going on in this fragrance from start to finish and overall it comes through as sophisticated and easy wearing.
HEAD NOTES: Citrus Accord, Bergamot, Mandarin, Cedrat, Mint, Tomato Leaf, Davana Essence, Aldehydes, Cardamom Absolute
HEART NOTES: Clove, Egyptian Geranium, Madagascan Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Honeysuckle
BASE NOTES: Vetiver, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Raspberry Absolute, White Musk, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Africa Stone
... and a partridge in a pear tree. So many ingredients, such wasted potential.
On me, this is a overly "bright" and quite generic fresh-spice scent. Like many drugstore scents, a heavy hand with aldehydes dominates and ruins this. It is supposed to be a "lush woody citrus" but none of those aspects really are presented.
Given the price and promise of quality which does not appear, I find this to be very poor value and I do not recommend it.
Bertrand Duchaufour's 2011 re-working of Esprit Du Roi revisits the fougère territory of the previous year's Sartorial, but with less cleverness and a diminished sense of fun. The intention seems to have been to build a masculine around the idea of sourness: there's a feisty grapefruit at the beginning, followed by a tangy, not entirely appealing herbaceous edge which probably comes from the raspberry leaf absolute (all rasp; no berry). This in turn causes the hay aspect of the coumarin to come out in goosebumps, which ultimately causes the temperature of the whole to plunge to sub-zero depths. If you get up close - and I mean really close - you can detect the faintest growl of an animalic base, but otherwise wearing this feels like being on the receiving end of a chilly glare from a boss with a distressing love of performance management.
I don't know why Basenotes states this was launched in 1870, as the Penhaligon's site states it was launched in 1983 and is now part of their re-released classic scents.
This contains 20 ingredients:
Bergamot, Mandarin, Mint, Tomato Leaf, Davana (?), Cardamom - top
CLove, Egyptian Geranium, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Honeysuckle - middle
Vetiver, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Raspberry, White Musk, Africa Stone (?), Amber
It opens with a burst of citrus - \Mandarin and Bergamot, supported by mint. It then begins to warm and the Clove emerges, reminding me of a well-balanced Bay Rhum. After half an hour, the citrus and Clove are gone and we are left with a warm Sandalwood.
A very pleasant scent and one that would have been more appealing if the citrus/clove combo had not disappeared so quickly. Very nice but costly compared to other citrus/clove or outright Bay Rhum combos available today.