Etra (2000)
by Etro

Issey Miyake Le Feu d'Issey and Etro Etra Side-by-Side Comparison

Le Feu d'Issey Notes: Bergamot, Coconut, Rosewood, Anise, Jasmine, Rose, Milk, Caramel, Cedar, Sandal, Vanilla, Musk (from Osmoz)

Etra Notes: Rosewood, Coriander, Cardamom, Geranium, Sandalwood (from apothica.com)

I read in The Guide (Turin and Sanchez) that Etro was like a "less good" Feu d'Issey. Considering Fd'I is discontinued, I decided to test them together. Looking at the published notes, there is indeed some overlap, and the expectation is that the fragrance will be woody-spicy.

Upon applying Fd'I, it really took me back to the time when I owned it--it is a strange fragrance, unlike most others I have tried. It is simultaneously fresh and dirty, almost as if the perfumer was trying to represent an alternative to carnation. Fd'I has the same cool and moist qualities of carnation with a spiciness which is almost to the point of being sinister. The spices are peppery and woody, with a dirt-like quality which reminds me of cardamom. The spices ground the fragrance while the crisp, watery floral notes float above the base. The overall effect is almost electric--it is fuzzy and diaphanous, making it difficult to pin down exactly where the scent comes from. In the later development, Fd'I becomes a little more ambery sweet, and the bitter, dry spices keep it in check while cedar wood carries the fragrance to the drydown.

Etra smelled quite similar to Fd'I upon first application. The fragrance initially has the same cool-hot combination of florals and spices, but somehow seems more clean. It is a touch sweeter than Fd'I in the top notes, and the mid notes that poke through are substantially greener and more herbal. Etra goes through a low-sillage stage in the mid notes, becoming a skin scent of cedar, vanilla, pepper and cardamom. I had to apply more to get additional projection. I thought the two fragrances would have similar drydowns as they both seemed to be headed toward cedar-musk-vanilla. On the whole, the Feu d'Issey drydown is more complex and unique with peppery spices surviving well into the woody vanilla stage. Etra seems light but satisfying with vanilla, woods and a dash of anise which makes it a dead ringer for the drydown of Serge Lutens Douce Amere.

I can't say I disagree with T&S about Feu d'Issey being the better of the two. However, I think if anybody is expecting is Fd'I from Etra, it will only be in the first half of the development. Since I really like Douce Amere, I can't say I would be averse to wearing Etra at all, as I get two great fragrances in one bottle! Etra really does lack the sparkle and balance of composition that Fd'I has, though. Sampling Fd'I today, I remember why I bought it in the first place--it is a carnation-like composition centered on an alternative oriental base. Where have we heard this theme before? From two of my most treasured favorites: Chanel Coco has rosy, spicy carnation over a traditional amber oriental base; and Shiseido Feminite du Bois has violet and fruit over a woody, balsamic alternative oriental base. Lest anybody lament the demise of Feu d'Issey, its legacy continues in fragrances such as Bulgari Black, Kenzo Amour and SL Douce Amere. And of course, Etro Etra.

Truly beautiful sweet and aromatic spicy-floral fragrance that leans clearly more towards feminine side. There is something in it that smells slightly medicinal and smoky. For me it is quite hard to compare this to anything; I think it’s a unique fragrance. Sensual and mysterious.

Slightly candied fruit-like aroma - makes me think of strawberrish concord limes plus sweet juicy candied cherries. And exotic spices and fresh colourful flower fields under the clear blue sky….

Glorious vanillic drydown strongly glows warmth.

Etro is one interesting house and this is just one example. I really do recommend this to any woman: You will smell gorgeous on this one.

This is a a very nice peppery musk - I can't detect any vanilla. Have received positive reactions all round, so can't complain there. Etra reminds me of the MPG musks, but with more sillage and longevity (that wouldn't be hard though). I like it a lot, but don't love it.

I'd dare call this Egoiste Lite. Smokey, woody, peppery and floral with a touch of vanilla. Not strong but not fleeting. A soft elegant fragrance that hang around with you all day. I like!

Very impressive and extremely well balanced through top and heart notes. Floral in a unique way. But on my skin as soon as it got to the final stages it became too feminine and sweet. Definately worth a thumbs-up.

Very subtle and well blended, yet not a lightweight by any means. Not much in the way of florals (thank goodness), yet delicate in a way that one usually expects only in a floral fragrance. For me the longevity is good if not excellent and the sillage is just right (with one spray of the EDT bottle, to the chest). It could get boring if used every day, but for me, that's probably true for every fragrance I've ever tried. I'd call this more masculine than feminine, but then I can't imagine it smelling bad on anyone under normal conditions. Very high quality juice here!