Gianfranco Ferré for Man (1986)
by Gianfranco Ferré

I've always appreciated since its inception this creation, located  in the middle way between a classic chypre and an aromatic fougere, so decided to taste it back after a while (a long while, twenty years later at least). I remember to have tested it for the first time many years ago and since than i was impressed by the complex evolution from the initial lemony harshness to a multifaceted, rooty, mossy and obscure baroque wake with colors of orange, bergamot, spices, cedar, patchouli, petitgrain and flowers. This taste is rich, luxurious and decadent. As many underlined the first barber-shop blast is an unappealing thirsty lemony-lavender. The aromatic fist of fern, juniper and fir is in a while bursting together with the pungency of black cardamom that is the prelude for the upcoming darkness of the forest. The central stage is the most articulated phase of the development, a stage in which dozens of facets (herbal, floral, leathery, mossy, ambary, citrusy etc.) whirl around in a general vintage, potpourri and almost boozy atmosphere whose illusion (the booziness) is enhanced by the chord of gassy spices (nutmeg?), tobacco, mild amber and mandarin-orange. The middle part is luxurious but dark and restrained in the performances of astringent flowers and fruits that are almost overwhelmed by the gluminess and heaviness of the woodsy notes. I catch a sheer leathery mould in the final slightly powdery and very sophisticated outcome, a starring leather that envelops many elements like moss, sandalwood, smoke and strong rooty vetiver. In this phase the harshness is tamed but i would not define the smell as properly soapy. Ceremonial and austere with a touch of exoticism. Together with Pontaccio 21 my favourite from the great italian brand and in general a real precious leathery potion among the classics from the 80's.

P.s: i finally purchased a 75 ml bottle of this gem and i have to say that the more i wear it the more i like it. Believe me, this is really, but really a fantastic fragrance, one of the best i know, unbelievably multifaceted, deep, dark, smoky, very leathery, spicy, boozy, incensey, classy, mysterious and more and more. A great olfactory romance. Buy it as much as possible.

30th November, 2011. (Last Edited: 15th December, 2011.)

I blind bought a 125ml bottle of Ferre For Man just because a very good friend of mine was absolutely enthusiastic about this fragrance and as I hold in high regard this man (for his countless values) I went for this purchase with no esitation.

I've to admit it took a while for me to fully appreciate this composition as the opening notes (mainly bergamot and lavender) are not among the best examples of a "catchy opening". They're kind of edgy and too acidic but fortunately they quicly evolve into an amazing fougère made of woods, leather, tobacco, vetiver and floral patterns. Elegant, refined but absolutely not affected as it gathers together more than a single aspect of the 80's powerhouse fragrances.

As a matter of fact, Ferre For Man rapidly became one of my favourite fragrance in the vintage designer's range being among the best creation of that time. Great lasting power, good sillage, remarkable personality. Quality stuff. A great all-rounder, an all time favourite.

16th June, 2011.

A pleasant surprise, this little gem. Dark yet polite. Fairly dry, but reminds me a bit of the scent of (dark) chocolate-covered orange sticks. Very happy with this discovery.

13rd June, 2011.

Good to see this one enjoying a bit of a revival of late. I used to wear this in the late 90s when you could pick it up in most places, but then it seemed to disappear from the shelves, despite not being discontinued. Perhaps it was due to the release of its intended replacement (GFF Uomo), which was (is) terrible, that put people off buying Ferre so it wasn't economically viable to have it on the shelves. Which is a shame because Ferre is and always has been a massively under rated and complex frag. Opens almost like the base of a classic barbershop fougere - soapy citrus and a hint of powder. I don't get much in the middle, but the base is a lovely woody leather which simmers away nicely for hours. Really good stuff.

6th May, 2010.

I can’t say that Gianfranco Ferré for Man’s top notes of dry lavender and sour citrus are appealing, but after about ten minutes the acidic citrus loses its edge and a tarragon-seasoned fougère accord blooms out of the lavender. Hints of smoky leather, tobacco, and a carefully modulated musk warm and enrich the aromatic fougère arrangement and help align Gianfranco Ferré with its near contemporaries Jules and Lauder for Men. While juniper and moss leave Gianfranco Ferré smelling unmistakably of its era, it is neither overbearing nor bombastic. Instead the scent offers a rare degree of balance and nimbleness that make it more easy to wear today than some of its more bulky and assertive peers.

As time wears on Gianfranco Ferré veers further towards leather, with vetiver and moss base notes painting an outdoorsy, forest floor background for the bergamot and aromatics. A quiet, yet distinctly expressed jasmine note adds an unexpected element of softness to a composition that might otherwise have come across as crude or growly. A dusty sandalwood and cedar accord extends this softness into the drydown, which drifts from open air vigor to domestic comfort as it goes. A very good all around scent, once you get past the awkward top notes.

29th January, 2010.

This one barks, but it does not bite: the powerhousish top notes are just a disguise for very powdery and subdued mid and top notes. Many will find it outdated or even old-lady like in its mid notes, but do not fool yourself for its real character is that of a gentleman.

31st October, 2009.