Givenchy Gentleman (1974)
by Givenchy

I need to revise my orignal review slightly, now that I've had a lot more time with the latest formulation of Gentleman. The more I wear this, the more similarities I smell to the original. This newer version is drier and a bit lighter, but it's still Gentleman in overall attitude and aura. I can smell civet in this, though it's not as blatant as in the original; in this new version, the civet is used more to smooth out the patchouli, rather than to make itself known as a separate note. Gentleman is still a patchouli bomb, and it still exudes class with a bit of a naughty edge. So I take back my comment that this new version is practically a different scent than the original. It's not. It's simply a reinterpretation of the original, and is still excellent.

Original 9/1/09 review:

Rather than waste everyone's time writing a long review about a formulation that no longer exists, let me just get this out of the way: yes, I've worn the vintage GG, and no, the new formulation is not as good as the vintage version, I know. That being out of the way, the new GG deserves to be reviewed on its own merits, and I'm happy to say that it is a very good fragrance. Formerly a woody oriental, the new GG is now more of a woody chypre, and It is a rather linear scent, not veering too far away from it's patchouli core. The woody notes really take a backseat to the patchouli here, and if it's a mildly spicy and formal patchouli scent you want, look no further. Patchouli fragrances are often either rich and heavy, or earthy and dirty - the new GG is clean and smooth, but the patchouli is still very much in the forefront and providing some nice mild spiciness. This is not headshop patchouli, this is more of a "club" scent for a mature man. What I like better about the new GG is the fact that it's not weighed down with amber and civet, and is therefore light enough to wear all year round. I've been wearing this all this summer (I'm wearing it as I write this in August), enjoying it the whole time, and I look forward to wearing it for the fall and winter. Perhaps Givenchy should have given this fragrance a different name, since there is very little resemblance to the vintage Givenchy Gentleman. It's almost a completely different fragrance, but a very good one at that.

I have not had the chance to try the vintage formulation which I have heard so much about. However the current Gentleman is still quite a powerhouse in my books. Indeed, it opens rather loudly with Tarragon and makes a smooth transition to a rooty patchouli-dominant scent with the civet and and leather adding animalic qualities and a slightly powdery texture to round it up. As it completely dries down, I am left with a slightly bitterish herbal linger.

******************************************************

Givenchy Gentleman starts off with a blast of tarragon that adds some bite, after which it descends into a faint, musty and old-fashioned smelling patchouli fragrance. The vetiver, leather and carnation are all very subtle. Apart from the opening, I didn’t find anything too compelling about it – the whole composition came across as, largely, thin and insubstantial. Longevity was roughly three hours.

I’m sure that the original formulation had much more bite to it (especially with regards to the oakmoss and civet) but its boring and somewhat soapy presence leaves very little to be desired.

The cinnamon-bergamot topnotes don’t scare me off at all, and I particularly like the way the tarragon spikes the opening accord before segueing into the sweet patchouli that follows. After that, I experience Gentleman as a largely conventional woods and patchouli fragrance on a powdery sweet amber foundation. What leather there may be here isn’t terribly assertive, and if there’s any civet in this blend I’m missing it entirely. Carnation surfaces from time to time, but not with the panache it showed in the late and lamented Patou pour Homme.

I’m inclined to believe the rumors that this was once a bolder and more animalic scent. The Gentleman I’ve tried is ever so polite and undistinguished, not the dangerous, if sophisticated, rake I’ve heard described. I might have enjoyed that fellow’s company, but the new guy is just a yawn.

First let me say that in my quiet contemplative moments I have to admit that I love Givenchy Gentleman. Second let me say that in my public persona, I am deeply concerned about even possibly wearing Givenchy Gentleman. This is a very potent fragrance, with a very upfront patchouli that really carries. I might consider wearing this in private, or in public after about five hours of development. I couldn't, however, put this on before dressing for work and expect that anyone would sit next to me on the comuter train with anything short of the disdain one might have for a fellow traveller smelling of insecticide or mothballs (not that this smells like either, that's not the point). My concern about being a NYC commuter and wearing this is based upon a true test application. When I was testing GG I sprayed some one evening before going to my 7:08 Express, the last express out of NYC on my line. A fellow commuter sitting on the other side of the train obviously noticed the GG, made a pronounced sniffing sound and gave me a look that was not subject to misinterpretation. That look said, "your stink is making it hard for me to concentrated on my laptop, you 'idiot'." I conclude that the public no longer accepts or understands these kinds of uber-masculine scents. We have to face that fact, and admire it PRIMARILY in the privacy of our own domains. But that's not really what I buy fragrances for......... If it didn't smell so damnably fabulous, I would give it an unreserved thumbs down; but it smells so good! This would go very well with a sharply cut Savile Row suit, and hand made gloves-- the kind of things we hardly ever see anymore.To me the image of Dean Acheson comes up when I smell this. He was the last great Democrat bureaucrat. A liberal cold warrior from the late 40s and early 50s Acheson was a great dresser, who pushed the envelope a bit with his obvious style. He had a dramatic face and sported a small slightly turned up moustache. GG would have been perfect for him in those Truman years.... IN RE-REVIEWING THIS PRODUCT ALMOST TWO YEARS AFTER MY ORIGINAL REVIEW, I AM NOW CONVINCED THAT WORN IN MODERATION, AND IN WINTER, IN A QUASI-FORMAL OR DRESSY CONTEXT, ONE CAN WEAR GG IN PUBLIC, BUT IT MUST BE DONE WITH THE UTMOST PRUDENCE. BASED UPON THIS REAPPRAISAL, I HAVE CHANGED MY RATING TO A THUMBS UP, WITH THE CAVEATS STATED ABOVE.