
First, I was quite uninterested by the combination of minimal citrus opening, paired with a strong leathery drydown. I mean, I love leathery scents and I have great respect for Givenchy, but I expected more from a leathery creation. But...I discovered an undisclosed smoothness, a certain almost unexplained refinement in it. The fascination for this scent was love at many, almost countless sights, which didn't start right away for me, but rather it took time, re-testing and reapplying on repeated occasions. And suddenly, I was smitten by the animalic background, which has both a dirty, bad-boy side as well as dose of intoxicating, wasteful, indulgent luxuriousness about it. Strangely, both ( and apprently conflicting ) opinions i frequently read about this scent in other reviews seem to be confirmed to me- without any dissonance, I can smell in it both the clean-cut, even slightly overdressed Wall-Street millionaire as well as the rebellious hippie with a greater passion for incense and exotic essences rather than hygiene, by the plain means of soap and water ( I know both statements sound a bit like prejudice, but I guess this scent takes the liberty to play around a bit with our most common misconceptions, without however being too experimental, but rather remaining a conservative above these controversies ). I guess i was at first put off by the base notes of this scent, which at firts bothered me not as much trough their harsheness, by their in-your-face display of almost juggernautish manhood, but a first impression of- yes, it was a superficial opinion, which I revisited, I radically changed in the meantime- a quite generic impression, generic meaning in this scent erathy, neutral, slightly choking and powdery, opposite to the subtelties of a multilayered fragrance, but not exclusive or focused enough to be a " soliflore " either- just a few " dirty " herbs ( characterization which I found more accurate here then in YSL PH Concentree, often accused for this reason ) and an either too yuppie or too psychedelic, to earth-bound finale. How wrong I was - and in this process, I also undesrstood Boateng's ( whom i deeply respect ) fascination
for this fragrance. Yes, while the overtly leathery and animalic base might be loud, offputting, long-lasting in a disturbing way, even stuffy and unidimensional, it's the very same source that fully justifies the genius and stylish simplicity of this scent. Take your time, don't overapply, take more time and then... all or most unclean, unsavoury associations this strong-willed base, not for the weak-hearted generated, are turned ( at least on my skin ) in while a while not groundbreaking or bedazzling, still very sober, distinguished, slighly reserved and formal but nontheless warm, self-confident and genuinely elegant old-school chypre male beauty. This very chypre impression is what i like most about it, as it becomes so richly fulfilling, so poetic without being falshy or artificial, if I not only wear it, but I also take enough passion. I would almost call it slightly, quite remotely, reminescent of two other French classics- Eau Sauvage and Chanel PM- plus the extra edge. And this very edge is actually that very opposite of the genericness that i first sensed- in fact, it has a certain very slow ( even as developement on the skin ), but very smooth and steady way of reviving associations rather with the old-world, with a certain ancien regime nostalgia, way before both yuppies and hippies were an issue, it takes one ( or at least in my associations ) back to a time of opulent aristocratic residences and musty, slightly decaying fortress walls, dramatic, almost theatrical landscapes, collectible old books, a fondness for masculine pursuit, for cigars and brandy, and a certain taste for formal wear ( arguably including leather, in the form of various costly accessories ). And all these associations can hardly be forgotten by me- this is why I actually, altough terribly late learned to discover and love this underrated gem, whose strenghts and deligths are not so easily acessible as it seems, nor as linear and unsurprising, as this scent's simplicity is just an apparent pretext for many hidden and passionate lurking behind an appearantly uninspiring, equal and unilateral first impression.