Poor man's Eau Sauvage
There is a steady trickle of wine makers coming to sharpen their olfactory skills at Cinquième Sens - the perfumery workshop in Paris.
Wine and perfume have more in common than a bouquet, they are luxury in a bottle; they both stimulate the senses and appeal to our emotions. But, there is an anomaly in the way they are marketed.
For whatever reason, wine is priced by quality, Vin Ordinaire is cheaper than Veuve Clicquot. No such transparency in perfume.
Grès released Pour Homme in 1965. It was a flat and plodding citrus woody cologne that was, no doubt, being sold at the same price as all the other stuff ie. not cheap. Then, within a year came Eau Sauvage.
If Table Wine and Champagne were the same price, which would you choose?
Poor Grès didn't have a chance.
16th May, 2016 (last edited: 17th May, 2016)
I still own a very, very old sample of this fragrance (from the 1980s). It has mostly turned although I still wear it occasionally for the wonderful old fashioned dry down. Masses of Moss and Musk Ambrette. A good Lavender Fougere; bitter and aromatic, citrus and agrestic, mossy and musky. I wish there were more fragrances of this quality made today.
The first notes are fresh, smooth citrus rounded by lavender, not unlike the opening of Chanel Pour Monsieur. But then a startlingly harsh note appears which is almost identical to Ivory Soap --- quite strong, and off-putting for me. Fortunately, this doesn't last long, and soon we're back in the land of cedar, rosewood and carnation, gradually mellowing into the resinous base of vanilla, tonka and benzoin.
The whole composition is fairly light, and barely detectable on my skin after 4 hours. I don't mind lighter fragrances fading more quickly --- sometimes it's even preferable. I'm rating this as a neutral solely because the "Ivory Soap effect" detracts from what would otherwise be a very classy and enjoyable 60's scent.
Grès Pour Homme is an enjoyable citrus fragrance well presented in a ‘60s style. It is a complex citrus scent… the kind that we don’t see too often lately. Its complexity reminds me somewhat of the three Signoriccis by Nina Ricci because of the petitgrain in the opening. The petitgrain is unmistakable. The lavender in the opening also adds a feeling that makes the citrus accord broader than the typical citrus accord. The middle level is complex and primarily woody to my nose with its cedar, patchouli and with its touch of rosewood: This accord is very smoothly blended. Finally, the ‘60s are also represented in the base accord, with its long list of base elements. This blending, too, is smooth and seamless and keeps me from identifying most of the individual notes, although it seems more musky to me than anything else.
I’m not sure I would wear a scent like this anymore, but I do admire its character and I have enjoyed the trip down memory lane.
lovely - a bit like Eau Sauvage - fresh and clean - well worth a splash