This little number is very attractive. There's a reason they brought it back after the earlier run, which sold out and was unavailable for a long spell (as I understand it).
This juice is very likeable. The opening and first ninety minutes are so, so enjoyable.
Toward the end it is still holding together, and you can remember what the opening smelled like.
Sadly,r the spoiler for me is a fairly long stretch in the heart where when I sniff, and I get mostly ... scented baby powder. Nearly as if it were a solifloré of that note.
I like powderiness, and even that mystery accord they still use in J&J baby powder, but this is a case it's a little too much by itself, with not much to support it, and so it's all I can smell for a while.
I suspect this is a unique condition, a curiosity in the way my skin plays out the notes of the composition, but whatever the root cause, for me this issue puts HLedC in the "cannot be FBW" class.
All that being said,for me it'd have to give it a neutral, but would strongly suggest any interested readers to test for yourself, as it's a very friendly composition whose quality is readily apparent, and so I am scoring it as *thumbs up* in my public rating.
I think this must be the reformulated version.
It reminds me very much of Gold Musk by Santa Maria Novella, as the overriding impression is of an expensive soap you may find in a five star hotel.
The main problem is the longevity though -- I reckon 3 hours at the most and at the current price-point that's just not good enough.
Powdery, floral, musky with a rather synthetic lavender glow. Not really close to the classic eau de cologne backbone (no citrus or herb notes besides the lavender), however it is very well blended and has good projection. A genderless, classy and most of all inoffensive morning/office scent.
I'm not really sure where to start with Helmut Lang EDC. So what does it smell like? White soap in a hot steamy shower, baby powder, a little bit of civet poop, a disconcerting hum of bleach, and a background sweetness that's sort of herbal that gets so thoroughly drowned out by the soapy powdery wet heat that it's barely worth trying to figure out.
Given a couple of hours, it ends up as a soapy metallic coumarin that's clearly inspired by Le Male, but with all that powder instead of the vanilla. As such, Helmut Lang has a sort of clean/dirty juxtaposition that works with the nondescript herbs to give it a modern niche feel. Realistically, I'm not a soapy powdery musk kind of guy, and the Le Male-inspired drydown doesn't really do anything for me, so Helmut gets a thumbs down, but with a caveat that there's some interesting artistry here.
The original Helmut Lang EDC is a great "white" perfume, and a pillar of modern minimalism in perfumery. It is essentially built with a really peculiar texture of ultra-clean notes - lavender, heliotrope, spices, white musks, sandalwood - completely "devoided" from any natural organicness, and juxtaposed to a dusty, slightly musky-woody dark base. All stuffed within a futuristic, metallic bone-structure that alchemically transforms this ordinary blend into something completely different from other similar scents - a sort of dusty, "gassy" composition, limpid yet with a feel of lunar soil and alien concrete. The feel is of a "clean" scent, but a particular kind of clean, a sort of industrial, standardized sense of cleanliness, pretty much like sterilized laundry clothing, cleverly mixed with a cloud of grey notes, which manage to be airy yet humid like wet soil. So there is this mixed feel of white silkiness and grey dustiness which I find really classy and well-executed, a futuristic harmony which creates a sort of "lunar" kind of whiteness, a shady grade of white. A lot of fragrances came after this, but none of them catches this particular sense of dense, faceted, clever minimalism. The persistence is sadly fairly short, as this is an EDC, so I am not really sure if the crazy prices are still worthy - it was surely worth the purchase when its price was far less than now. Grab it just in case of good deals, or content yourself with the new version, which is not that far from this original one.
Briefly put: at the very first sniff, the new version of this EDC smells much close to the original one, giving you that instinctive, soothing feel of "oh, that's it!". The only difference I detect, speaking of notes, is that this new version appears to be somehow slightly softer, sweeter and "whiter". The original one managed to blend harmonically a clean whiteness with a metallic and shady grayness, in a really faceted yet minimalist composition; here, that fascinating subtle contrast seems a bit tamed down in a blend more tending towards a straightforward "clean" feel, slightly softer, sweeter and also perhaps a bit more fruity than its previous version. In short, it seems to me slightly less "dirty" than the vintage EDC – that peculiar kind of dusty, "lunar" dirt. Apart from this, which perhaps is just a matter of subtle nuances, as I said the notes smell all quite similar. The main difference between the two versions is another one, and it is about the *substance* of the notes, which smell quite different to me between the two versions in terms of texture – and this may be considered a "deal-breaker". The new one is significantly lighter, sharper, cleaner, standing to its original version like a hologram, or a shade, just capturing its surface appearance leaving behind all its substantial richness and evolution – its "life", basically. I won't say the difference is as much clear (and depressing) as lying on a Moroccan beach and watch a poster of that beach while sitting in a travel agency, but that is the concept. And it's something you'll notice after one hour or so of full wearing. Comparisons aside though, if you are not familiar with the original EDC and you don't care much of it, this cologne is basically a white heaven of lavender, heliotrope, tonka, vanilla, sandalwood and a dry, aromatic herbal notes, sharp and classy, so "abstractly" clean it can work pretty much anywhere and anytime. And if you are not particularly picky and always wanted to smell the original EDC... this is quite faithful to its predecessor, taking into account the differences I mentioned. A little duller, yet still pleasant.