Perfume Directory

Iris Silver Mist (1994)
by Serge Lutens


Iris Silver Mist information

Year of Launch1994
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 294 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerMaurice Roucel
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Iris Silver Mist

Iris Silver Mist is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 1994 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Maurice Roucel

Reviews of Iris Silver Mist

Stardate 20170730:
Starts with a strong iris note and then develops into a Dior Homme type Iris Vanilla.
OK but DHI is preferable by a mile.
30th July, 2017
This has a strong, rooty, earthy, musty, orris root smell, reminiscent of dry hay and carrots. It smells like the the roots have just been unearthed, in a good way. It's wearable perfume fun.
14th July, 2017
This is not perfume.

It is either art or a form of water boarding, but it’s not a perfume.

Iris Silver Mist teeters on a tightrope between aching beauty and ugly brutality for much of its duration. The first blast out of the gate is of the purest iris root note I have ever smelled – it an exhalation of pure luxury.

Then, as suddenly as it began, the buttery iris root note is whipped away and replaced with a wall of poisonous aromas that lunges for your throat and just keeps coming.

I can almost taste the smell on the back of my tongue – mud, earth, metal, roots, dry ice pumped from a machine at a festival. The mix of aromas is unsettling and quite brutal, a cold stew of raw potatoes soaking in ice cold water, rotting carrot tops, and something that recalls the acrid fug of alcohol fumes that comes off a hot Poitín still.

There is also the high-toned acid sting of fresh urine about it – like that of a baby’s nappy but devoid of any of the warm, sweet-sour honey and hay overtones that makes baby pee such a friendly smell. The urine aroma here is cold and denatured, ureic acid grown in a sterile lab. This is not of human origin.

This striking stink is, of course, iris – pure iris rhizomes pushed to the limit by Maurice Roucel, who, under the urging of Serge Lutens to make it more, more, MORE iris, dumped a little-used iris nitrile called Irival into the mix. Iris fragrances are usually icy, polite, and suggestive or either lipstick or the lining of an Hermes purse.

Iris Silver Mist is the bared teeth of a dog. It snarls.

It’s not at all nice to wear, at least not in the first hour, but it stirs my soul in a way that more pleasant, wearable perfumes do not. The drydown is a soft iris suede with dabs of creamy woods and a soft breath of spice. Not distinctive at all, and actually kind of weak, but we still have the memory of that opening to drop our jaw to the ground.

Iris Silver Mist makes me think of uncomfortable scenarios – teenagers facing the wall at the end of the Blair Witch Project, the tops of those dark pine trees swaying in the wind in Twin Peaks every time Coop entered the Red Room in the Black Lodge, the guy in nothing but y-fronts and a WW2 gas mask striding across a corn field at the end of episode 3 of True Detective…..

Think of basically anything that has ever chilled your soul, and that’s Iris Silver Mist.

It is a work of art. Art in a gimp mask, yes – but still, art.
20th March, 2016
I'm still trying to figure this frag out. I get a powdery carrot smell in the opening that doesn't seem to change. It's safe to say that this frag is linear. My son told me it smells like leather but he's 8. I personally don't get the leather he gets but I can find it to have a suede appeal to it. This wouldn't be classified as unisex in my catalog but it's not overly feminine either.

I'm looking to get rid of it but I think I need to give it another try in a few days. I mean, it's not awful but you have to be easy on the trigger otherwise it could be cloying.

I will edit it if I have to the next time I try it.
14th November, 2015
When I was a boy, I had a portable phonograph covered in leather and lined with felt. It had a clasp and opened like a suitcase. When I first inhaled Lutens' Iris Silver Mist, it brought this olfactory memory back to me. It smells exactly like that cool, dry felt and leather scent that greeted me each time I opened it.

This is the best iris I have ever encountered. I like it even better than Fath's iconic Iris Gris, which is its only competition. Turin rightly gave it five stars and labeled it "iris root," which of course is what it is. It smells lovely and cool, and for me reminiscent of the scent of fine Italian or French leather jackets that have been sitting in the sun.

Very masculine in a sophisticated classy way. I picture Roger Moore or Matt Bomer wearing Iris Silver Mist. If you are a fan of the iris note, don't miss this one.
24th January, 2015
A very upfront dry, chalky iris, made slightly warm with judicious use of violets, cinnamon, vanilla suede, and a clever carrot element. It's fairly obvious that Dior Homme was inspired by this - my personal favorite is the Dior for its rich warmth. Iris Silver Mist is more artful and dramatic, but just doesn't have a personality that quite wins me over. That being said, it's a very good perfume, highly deserving of a thumbs up.
24th January, 2015

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