Perfume Directory

Iris Silver Mist (1994)
by Serge Lutens

Advertisement

Iris Silver Mist information

Year of Launch1994
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 302 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerMaurice Roucel
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Iris Silver Mist

Iris Silver Mist is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 1994 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Maurice Roucel

Reviews of Iris Silver Mist

Supreme sombre/neutral resinous (almost edible) smoothness, a spicy melange of musky (powdery) iris, labdanum, resins and balminess, a scent initially somewhat humid/earthy/rooty but finally musky and rubbery (galbanum and frankincense) with a spicy leafy/floral undiscernible spark. Iris is dominant (though the floral vibe is more complex), kind of boise, spicy (mostly cloves) "lipstick" and definitely smooth a la V&A Bois d'Iris. Incense and amber provide a quite misty/resinous/powdery/suedish/gummy pop-clubby dark atmosphere. Refined (with its earthy-floral twist) and glamour, definitely avantgarde for the time it was conceived.
01st June, 2018
Simply the best! An iris for iris lovers. Take everything you know about iris in perfume and throw it away because that was all child’s play. This here smells like you stabbed the soil with your bare hands and dug up a buried rhizome in the garden. It’s moist, sweet, metallic and a touch disturbing. But alas it is also dry, doughy, and like the breath of an angel. Sillage is close to the skin but it’s the kind of somber and beautiful grey day scent that you want to sit close. I love this stuff. I am on my second bottle and it just feels feels right to me. My brain just must be receptive to these notes. Some people loathe ISM and I do not doubt their sincerity. But some people, myself included, can’t live without it.
05th March, 2018
All orris facets in a perfume. From fresh green, to powdery violet, to suede leathery to rooty.
An art piece!!!

SECRET: Keep your distance from where you apply it.
It is NOT a perfume to be experienced by digging your nose on your wrist.
If you do that you only smell incense-vetiver-carnation sourness.

Instead, my advice is to apply it inside your jacket-coat or behind your knees.
This way you smell the fog of a buttered, doughy orris!!!

Unique!
18th February, 2018
Stardate 20170730:
Starts with a strong iris note and then develops into a Dior Homme type Iris Vanilla.
OK but DHI is preferable by a mile.
30th July, 2017
This has a strong, rooty, earthy, musty, orris root smell, reminiscent of dry hay and carrots. It smells like the the roots have just been unearthed, in a good way. It's wearable perfume fun.
14th July, 2017
This is not perfume.

It is either art or a form of water boarding, but it’s not a perfume.

Iris Silver Mist teeters on a tightrope between aching beauty and ugly brutality for much of its duration. The first blast out of the gate is of the purest iris root note I have ever smelled – it an exhalation of pure luxury.

Then, as suddenly as it began, the buttery iris root note is whipped away and replaced with a wall of poisonous aromas that lunges for your throat and just keeps coming.

I can almost taste the smell on the back of my tongue – mud, earth, metal, roots, dry ice pumped from a machine at a festival. The mix of aromas is unsettling and quite brutal, a cold stew of raw potatoes soaking in ice cold water, rotting carrot tops, and something that recalls the acrid fug of alcohol fumes that comes off a hot Poitín still.

There is also the high-toned acid sting of fresh urine about it – like that of a baby’s nappy but devoid of any of the warm, sweet-sour honey and hay overtones that makes baby pee such a friendly smell. The urine aroma here is cold and denatured, ureic acid grown in a sterile lab. This is not of human origin.

This striking stink is, of course, iris – pure iris rhizomes pushed to the limit by Maurice Roucel, who, under the urging of Serge Lutens to make it more, more, MORE iris, dumped a little-used iris nitrile called Irival into the mix. Iris fragrances are usually icy, polite, and suggestive or either lipstick or the lining of an Hermes purse.

Iris Silver Mist is the bared teeth of a dog. It snarls.

It’s not at all nice to wear, at least not in the first hour, but it stirs my soul in a way that more pleasant, wearable perfumes do not. The drydown is a soft iris suede with dabs of creamy woods and a soft breath of spice. Not distinctive at all, and actually kind of weak, but we still have the memory of that opening to drop our jaw to the ground.

Iris Silver Mist makes me think of uncomfortable scenarios – teenagers facing the wall at the end of the Blair Witch Project, the tops of those dark pine trees swaying in the wind in Twin Peaks every time Coop entered the Red Room in the Black Lodge, the guy in nothing but y-fronts and a WW2 gas mask striding across a corn field at the end of episode 3 of True Detective…..

Think of basically anything that has ever chilled your soul, and that’s Iris Silver Mist.

It is a work of art. Art in a gimp mask, yes – but still, art.
20th March, 2016

Add your review of Iris Silver Mist

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Iris Silver Mist products online

Search for on eBay United States

Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist *ORIGINAL FORMULATION* 5 ml Decant

  • USD $28.99
  • Listing Type: Buy it Now
  • Time Left: 24 days
  • Vendor: Ebay United States
  • Shipping from: United States

Member images of Iris Silver Mist

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement

Advertisement