Iris Silver Mist (1994)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

If you think seriously of beginning a collection of niche perfumes, but you have still not found THE one, that will inspire you in order to continue, I suggest you try Iris Silver Mist. Moreover if you like Iris root note and seek the genuine smell of it, I believe you will have the chance to find it in this magnificent juice. No “make up” applied, no other notes predominating at the background, just pure Iris that goes from rooty, earthy and maybe a little dirty, to deep, musky and powdery. Although it is not a mainstream, from the middle notes and on, it becomes so calm and close to the skin that it is difficult to completely dislike it. Undoubtedly unisex, unoffensive and easy to wear anytime of the day. Just great!

I'm learning that perfumes that are commonly described as "cool" rarely ever excite me. I like drama and spice. That said, Iris Silver Mist doesn't strike me as scary (like CB Black March) or insipid (like Apres l'Ondee.) It goes on smelling like freshly pulled carrots, which isn't unpleasant. The carroty is joined by a tiny, tiny bit of spice and a lot of cool notes, like fresh earth and cold air. The overall impression is silky smooth and quiet -- maybe two quiet. I keep waiting for something to happen, but no, it's lightly spiced carrots and cool air all the way down. After testing for an hour or so today, I started to get a mild headache, which might or might not be associated with the perfume.

Certainly nothing unpleasant, but just kind of, eh. I'll keep a little bit of my sample around. Maybe I'll get it some day.

Carroty Iris in the opening. Violety Iris in the middle. Cold like winter air. Rooty Iris at the end.
Very good showcase of Iris.

Not sure about the top note; seems somewhat harsh. A strong carrot pyrazine green. However this soon goes and what is left is pure, cold powdery orris. It lasts a very long time, and is wonderful

Icy and sinister, like the frozen earth on a winter morning. This is undoubtably the best iris fragrance I have encountered. Iris to the max without being overwhelming. A masterpiece.

Iris, most elegant, wearing evening clothing of the finest cut and material, hands scented with cinnamon, kneels in the garden, where black damp earth and soil-flecked carrots rub together upon her.
Sublime. A must try. The smell of twilight.