Jean Marie Farina (1806)
by Roger & Gallet

Smells like a good fresh soap. I think it is nearly the same as William's shave soap. The beginning is strong of citrus and finally dies down to woods and neroli. Lasts no more than an hour, but it is a good traditional cologne.

EDIT 11/6/2009

I now realize that my original bottle off which I reviewed had gone bad as it was from the 1970s and was likely store improperly. The old bottle was harsh and reeked of acetone. Needless to say, I purchased a new bottle and it is quite different. The opening is a strong accord of citrus tempered with a light herbal bouquet. The opening is a tad soapy (yet far less soapy than the bad bottle). Soon after a light floral heart makes itself known with neroli and rose, a crisp rose, not a mucky vanilla rose. The florals give way to light woodsy accord from the neroli. There is no base, yet I wonder what this would be like with a helping of musk. Onward then to Eau de Guerlain even though its caraway note is off-putting. Jean Marie Farina IS what 19th century gentleman doused themselves with—it was glorious and still is.

Lovely cologne. Burst of bergamot, and a drydown of florals and a light woodsy accord. Nothing special but smells pretty good!

The opening of Jean Marie Farina is an invitingly fresh citrus and floral eau de cologne. Unfortunately, the drydown is very musty and old-fashioned, and it ends up being quite unpleasant to wear. Maybe it's my skin chemistry, or possibly the clove and carnation in the mid notes, but this alone prevents it from getting a thumbs-up.

Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra Vielle

It is said that Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Extra Vielle is one of the earliest examples of a modern cologne. That it dates back to 1806 and is over 200 years old clearly puts it in a small group of contenders for that title. This is an eau de cologne which means lighter wearing and certainly if you're looking for sillage and longevity you should move along as there is nothing here for you to see. If you are a lover of well-constructed scents and have an interest in the evolution of the art of perfumery you should stop , spray some on and luxuriate in the beauty of a real original. The top of this is a beautifully bright citrus that just rises off my skin in a fresh wave. Then a note of rosemary adds a greenness to the citrus that brings it back to earth. Finally there is a development of florals that finally end up in a distinct light rose akin to rose water. It is light and refreshing befitting all that led to this place. It is fascinating when wearing this that this was very likely the first time these notes and accords were introduced. To think that this was the first citrus bergamot top and the first rose base makes this a perfume history lesson in a bottle. Also 200 plus years later it is still an example of everything an eau de cologne should be.

A glorious olfactory expedition to simpler times, when the only criteria for a fragrance was to smell masculine, and to smell sensational. The opening is exactly what you want from a hairy chested cologne, it is a robust blend of citrus ingredients entwined with the acerbity of rosemary. This initial phase is in fact quite long lived, and it is several hours before the middle notes become more prevalent. The slightly bitter carnation notes augment the original edge provided by the rosemary in the opening, and together with a bold neroli presence, Jean Marie Farina becomes rich,edgy and fresh. To maintain the slightly astringent seam that exists from application to expiry, the rose in the base adds a final,dry, masculine phase, that is a fitting denouement. I have always worn this on slightly cooler days, and consequently its longevity is markedly improved. I can easily extract seven to eight hours from my morning application, and its consistency and contained sillage are remarkable.

Almost identical to 4711 and I love them both. Colognes that can change your mood from bad to good. Probably the only scents that boost the feeling of freshness once you get out of the shower... You have to appreciate that.

The longevity of Jean Marie Farina is somewhat better in comparison to 4711. I might be wrong on that one. However, for some strange reason, I don't mind that.

A timeless classic.