Jicky (1889)
by Guerlain

Jicky (EdT)

Jicky is an interesting fragrance that harkens back to the two original schools of perfumery in the late 19th Century—one English and one French. Obviously, Guerlain created Jicky in the genre of the French school and it is a leading example of that thinking today. The EdT is my favored concentration as I find it far more suitable for a man than the EdP and Extrait versions. Jicky opens with a harsh blast of lavender and civet, which is quite indolic for several minutes until the floral and herbal composition of the heart becomes apparent. That heart gives way to a powdery base of vanilla and civet.

Jicky ( born in 1889 ) is a difficult love and the difficult loves are the most desired ! Civet, lemon, lavender, incense. Jicky doesn't care if you love it back, it just is. You have to take it or leave it. I have vacillated between horror for the civet to undying love , back to rejection and then always back to love and loyalty - like a lover you know is not all good but you always want more. Jicky does that to me . Guerlain is a special house of perfumery - Jacques Guerlain knew how to weave magic, potency ,love and a darned good story into his creations.


Jicky is three men - the young upstart in the Eau De Toilette - loudly singing his own praises all bright with lemon and just a hint of unwashed skin but still very sparkling in his youth. Jicky Eau De Parfum is full on grown up man who has just got down from his horse, full in his manhood and pride - glowing in his own glorious smell of sex, skin and sunlight. Jicky the extrait is a thoughtful mature man in repose, elegant and sauve but his own skin smell is still there. He is handsome and dark - his face tells the story of his life but his eyes hint at playfulness and sex.

Jicky is also a woman who is chic and french - if not by nationality then by nature . Jicky woman loves being naughty and pushing the envelope - she is also a creative individualist who does not care for trends so much. She doesn't wear for frills and pink .She loves to smoke, drink ,sleeps with her man in the middle of the day . From her exterior the only glimmer you get of her slightly seedy naughty side is in her eye . To others , she is one who is disciplined, slightly cold and haughty and shops at the best boutiques on 24 Faubourg in Paris.

There was recently a thread about how some fragrances smell different up close (when your nose is on your wrist versus a waft from the chest). I think Jicky is exhibit number one of this phenomenon.

On first application, it smells like a relatively normal sweet, powdery citrus. Out of nowhere, the civet springs out of hiding and takes hold of the accord. This particular civet has a bit of a sense of humor:

If you smell it up close, it is quite fecal to me. Truly disgusting.

However, if you fan it toward your face or let it waft toward you, it is very polite and compliments the accord. Strange. So...just don't smell it up close and you should be fine!

As the scent progresses, the opening citrus and the civet take a back seat and I start to get more jasmine and vanilla. After about two hours the base is fully developed into an absolutely sexy accord with just the right amount of animalistic qualities, with the civet hard to identify as a single note. It plays a supporting role with the vanilla at center stage, giving the vanilla that three dimensional, slightly spicy, spiky rawness that is no rare. The sweet base is not cloying in the least (which is rare for me).

Overall, definite thumbs up. The top might raise some eyebrows, but the base is worth it.

Jicky is the most luxurious fragrance a man can wear. It doesn't last nearly as long as I'd like (edp), but for a brief moment this is heaven.

My favorite of all the classic Guerlains. I'm surprised to see so many notes listed -- all I smell is sweet lavender, creamy vanilla, and golden civet -- but perhaps that's a tribute to the blending. The balance between the notes is exquisite and timeless. I think of a beautifully built clock, everything in perfect order and ready to run forever. Doesn't project aggressively, but sinks into my skin and creates a gentle, confident aura. It's subtle, and I wear it to work without a second thought, but it's not out of place for an intimate night, either. The civet/vanilla in the base reminds me of the base notes in Nahema, which to me is one of the sexiest perfumes ever. Simple and perfect.

I have an odd relationship with Jicky. I can't deny that it's brilliantly composed, with high quality ingredients (vanilla, lavender, and civet,) that appeal to me, but I've never been compelled by it. Why? I'm not sure. When I wear the closely related Shalimar, Jicky seems incomplete. When I wear the equally civet-drenched Ungaro II, Jicky seems a little bit tame. When I want lavender, I invariably turn to Caron pour un Homme. In the end all I can say is that while I acknowledge Jicky's high status, I rarely enjoy wearing it. Thumbs up because it is a great scent and an important landmark, no matter how I feel about it personally.