Jil Sander Man III opens with a bold, mouthwash-like pine & leaves accord, rather astringent and minty but mossy too, with pungent spices (cloves and juniper) on a smoky, woody, dark base made denser and almost “oily” by a peculiar accord of soapy notes (rose), amber, resins, something sweetish-dusty halfway sandalwood and candied fruits, something salty-camphorous smelling like ambergris. Musky nuances and earthy patchouli blend with the leafy-pine notes. This is a really complex and peculiar scent: it’s green, but a unique kind of green – medicinal, dark, spicy, brownish, kind of decadent, with a smoky-dirty darkness that provides a musky-leathery feel. Plus, if that wasn’t enough, there’s a sweet-fruity-resinous warm breeze coming and going. A rich scent for sure, quite creative too, trying to put together a lot of inspirations: leathery fougères, musky chypres, woody-soapy barbershop aftershaves, fruity-resinous Orientals, with a sprinkle of classic low-cost “piney” colognes... all mixed together, with a hint of warm, sweet, candied floral exoticism. A bit tacky perhaps, but interesting. The evolution is pleasant and makes Man III smell more and more woody, dark, leaving behind the piney green “mouthwash” freshness and tending more towards mellow, velvety notes of wood, patchouli and soapy “barbershop” notes. It gets somehow less confused and more focused on a classic green-rose woody fougère, which is good. The fil rouge with the initial stages is basically cloves, resins, oak moss and juniper. Now, this is quite challenging to “judge”: it’s undoubtedly a bit outdated, and perhaps a bit confused and flashy (it’s German, it was the 1990s....), and finally it may seem just a sort of clumsy German clone of some Pino Silvestre; but it’s not (only) that. There’s something more mysterious and intriguing lying in this nearly-messy concoction. Despite I wouldn’t wear this that much, I find its complexity fascinating, unusual and highly modern – Bourdon made this, after all. Not memorable, but worthy a try if you can find it!