A powdery mossy chypre projecting in the air a sharp white/boise poisonous magic of the forest. Pure. It reminds me more than vaguely Leonard Pour Homme but without the leathery feel and yes, i find similarities with the Equipage's neutral mossy/floral suede. In the middle of the cloudy powder you can detect the aroma of fern and birch tar, some delicate hesperidic oil, a touch of aldehydes, musk, moss, ethereal spicy soap (cinnamon/orange?) and soothing balsams. Sometimes i wonder if a touch of not listed eliotrope is inserted in the blend. The balance is severe, the naturalness of the elements extreme and the fragrance, slightly hesperidic/aromatic at the beginning, turns out slowly as a silky/talky olfactory pearl with an airy/sharp mossy tone and with an orangy/floral animalic-powdery vibe. Just wonderful.
Jil Sander's Man Pure is, as others have described, a complex chypre with fresh, green, herbaceous, ambery, and smoky notes. It reminds me a lot of Halston's original 1-12, but a more mature, seasoned, refined, and experienced version of it. Not that 1-12 is immature or unrefined --- think of 1-12 as a smooth 12 year-old Scotch; then Man Pure is the same Scotch at 25 years old, with its final aging perhaps in oak casks previously used for Cognac. More complex, more robust, and richer in flavor, but very much of the same essence. Truly excellent stuff!
This is just amazing. SirSlarty mentions a smokiness, and its ever present, and its lovely. Smells like birch tar or cade. There is a wiff of citrus in the top, but just a wiff. Definitely some nice herbs. Lots of oakmoss. Ends with leather. This is not a sillage monster. But lasts a good deal of time on the skin, and the drydown is really nice.
This is a really nice smokey leather chypre. Will wear this a lot.
Smells like pure amazing. Very green and mossy and smokey. It's like a classic okamoss chypre with smoke added. Not cigarette smoke or charcoal smoke. Like herbs that's smoldering and emitting a fine powder. Excellent.
Top: lemon, basil, clary sage, origanum
Mid: carnation, patchouli, cinnamon, geranium
Base: Castoreum, oakmoss, labdanum, musk
It took a lot of sleuthing but I found the components of Jil Sander Man Pure (ORIGINAL), a discontinued treasure. A friend wise in the ways of scents suggested it to me. Iím grateful, because this is outstanding! Iíve not found anything quite like it. At times, its rich beauty suggests Worth pour Homme; at other times its elegant note of leather reminds me of Equipage. However, this stands on its own. It has an ethereal loveliness that is easy to appreciate but hard to describe. Iíll try, but words fail to fully capture its appeal. JSMP has an opening that is rich and yet brisk. Herbal and floral notes quickly emerge. When done well, as it is here, clary sage is a complex element that can evoke amber, neroli, lavender, muscatel grapes, light vanilla, and balsamic resin. Origanum lends herbal notes like thyme or marjoram. This is well-designed: it is sweet yet dry, substantial yet light. Despite its richness it has a cool, clear aspect. It is old-school in its mossy tones, beauty, and substance. This is a great chypre, it is lovelier and less grassy than many. I recommend this one highly, it is worth hunting for!