Stunning green,green start. As has been said before a dreamlike, smooth, seamless transition to the Leather. This,is Masculine Leather of yesteryear, reminiscent of the Bel Ami Vintage and the like. None of the contemporary saccharine muck or the brashness of burnt whatever, or lipstick nonsense.
Extraordinary in that it doesn't soften or fade on my skin. It maintains the note and and again seamlessly moves away.
A Masculine "I want to smell like that"
Thanks to Basenoter Bavard for introducing me to one of the "Great Masculines"
I have a mid-vintage bottle of Dior Jules, in the clear ribbed glass, and I am a fan. On the first wearing, I was worried that it may be too subtle, but a couple more wearings have revealed a steady performance and winning smell.
"Russian Leather" is listed as a note on this site, and it does remind me of Chanel Cuir de Russie, especially in the opening. It also reminds me somewhat of Chanel Antaeus, more so in the base, which was released a year after Jules.
27th May, 2016 (last edited: 28th May, 2016)
First, what two of the experts say about Jules:
Turin gives it four stars, calls it an "animalic fougere" and points to a combo of sage and cedar that some might find urine-ous (Basenotes spell check won't permit the correct spelling of that word).
Barbara Herman notes the progression from "green notes to ambery leather," a combination of "freshness and dirtiness" and praises its balance, that "its seams don't show." What begins as a fougere for her, ends as a "leather chypre."
It is certainly of its day, one of the powerhouse men's scents of the 1980s. The sage, fir and lavender combination is beautiful and the support of olibanum, tonka, oak moss and castoreum solidly lodge it in the chypre category, while still permitting it to walk the fine line between that category and fougere. The perfumer was Jean Martel.
Ms. Herman provides the full note tree here:
Top: Artemisia, bergamot, sage, wormwood, laurel leaf, lavender, cumin
Heart: Jasmine, cyclamen, carnation, rose, cedarwood, sandalwood, basil
Base: Leather, moss, tonka, olibanum, musk, amber, fir, castoreum
A very fine creation that can hold its own with its fellow powerhouse scents: Kouros, Aramis, Quorum, etc.
Unlike a few years ago, Jules can be bought now for $100-150, standard department store/niche price, and lord, is it worth it. There is nothing that smells like this. While most macho fougeres of the 80s (Polo, Quorum) have been noticeably cheapened, Jules still smells rich, natural, and expensive. It has the sour herbal animal hit of Paloma Picasso. It has the grassiness of Aromatics Elixir without the overbearing aldehydes that eventually made me give up on it. Its lasting power is phenomenal. The name and the advertising image are delightful. With Jules, you feel like you truly have in your hands a high quality, rare French perfume that someone brought you back from a European vacation. Along with Kouros and Yatagan, this is one of the three best masculines on the market and one of most well-preserved pre-00s perfumes altogether. As of the last time I went in 2013 you could still get it at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco for $70, the only US outlet for it that I know of.
Sidenote: I smelled it on a rich man while eating oysters at a fancy restaurant in Austin, where I live. I couldn't believe my nose, but that's what it was.
this was one of the very first scents I owned, a woderful scent worn in my late teens, powerhouse spicy leather.. a new bottle from Paris, surely reformulate but the structure is still there.. a wonderful scent, surely not some mass marketing nothingness for nowadays...