Perfume Directory

Jules (1980)
by Christian Dior

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Jules information

Year of Launch1980
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 186 votes)

People and companies

HouseChristian Dior
PerfumerJean Martel
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton
Parent Company at launchMoet Hennessy

About Jules

Contains notes of Black Pepper and Russian Leather. This hard to find woody scent by Dior was launched in 1980

Reviews of Jules

Fine fragrance equivalent of the smell they add to new cars.

**/*
27th November, 2018
Jules in an exercise in balance, which itself is a rare thing coming from a 70's/80's cusp fragrance. It marries the green galbanum and cyclamen blast of several perfumes both masculine and feminine from the early 70's. It would not be out of place to compare Jules alongside Estée Lauder's Azurée (1969) or Alliage (1972), which themselves formed the basis of the Estée Lauder by-way-of-Aramis masculines Devin (1978) and Aramis 900 (1973) respectively. Likewise, Jules also bears some resemblance to Chanel No. 19 (1971), but with less-prominent rose, and Jacomo Silences (1978) in it's bitter opening, with slightly indolic flowers throughout setting it apart from the Jacomo's starkness. Jules is an interesting character for a masculine staking it's claim amidst outgoing macho-man aromatics and incoming shrill displays of virility that were 80's powerhouses. This scent is confident, strong, but overall more quiet than expected, without avalanches of silliage, being a good compliment to a wardrobe stocked with other aromatic leathers like Bogart Eau de Toilette Pour Homme (1975) and Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (1978). It has the power of something like Chaps Ralph Lauren (1979) or Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978) but none of the swagger or loudness. Even a name like "Jules" lends an unassuming air that alludes to it's mystery, and likely the perceived mystery of it's wearer too, who is suggested to let his actions speak louder than his words by his choice of subtle fragrance. Another comparison would be to look at this as a much dialed-down precursor to Chanel Antaeus (1981) which was a year away. Overall, with so many comparisons that are all over the map, it's appropriate to say that Jules just sits squarely in the middle between bitter greens, florals, warm woods, and leather scents that were dotting the 70's landscape for both sexes, but at the verge of the change-over to the gaudy Technicolor jazz-hands that was the following decade. Most interesting indeed.

The 70's wasn't without it's understated masculines, as anyone who owns Balenciaga Ho Hang (1971) or Un Homme Charles Jourdan (1979) will tell you, but it's a far rarer breed, if these obscure book-ending masculines didn't already imply that, which Jules could be counted among it if had come out a little earlier. The scent is Dior's second masculine creation, and the obvious success of the Roudnitska-composed Eau Sauvage (1966) didn't necessitate the need for an immediate sequel, but by 1980, it had been long enough. Dior probably didn't want to go in the same light and fresh direction that Eau Sauvage had taken, since male-oriented chypres were brooding and dark things by the 70's, and aromatic fougères were the rage, so it's likely that Dior sat out through the 70's because the trends in men's fragrance probably didn't suit them. Jules does feel like something that began development in the 70's, but just had the unfortunate luck of being born too late to really hit home with it's target audience, which may also explain it's relative obscurity in comparison to other Dior masculines that followed. Jean Martel was brought in to make Jules, and his previous masculine work, the seminal Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) slightly reflects here in Jules, since this uses green notes, rose, and fougère-like base elements, but doesn't redefine the barbershop like his erstwhile creation. Jules foregoes the soap of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and takes a dryer chypre-like finish, with Russian Leather forming the backbone. On top of this leather note is galbanum, artemesia, lavender, cumin, bergamot, a middle of jasmine, cedar, sandalwood, rose, and basil, plus complimenting base notes of oakmoss, amber, civet, musk, and black pepper. It's all so ridiculously well-blended that if I didn't have a Dior-created note pyramid to stare at, I wouldn't have guessed half of this stuff. The animalic base is very restrained here, and the bitter greens in the top carry more weight than the rest of the scent, so despite being categorized as a masculine leather, I see this more as a green leather floral chypre like the aforementioned feminine fragrances and even a slight toss back to Miss Dior (Original 1947), just "manned up" with a bit of tweaking. Sorry guys, your "man's man" scent is really just re-purposed ideas from women's perfume of a bygone era, which doesn't bother me at all since I wear those too.

Considering this released in the same year as Jacques Bogart One Man Show and Jacomo de Jacomo (both 1980), it's kind of a miracle something this dapper made it out the gate at all. Leather fans are likely to enjoy Jules, and green fans are also likely to enjoy Jules, but folks sensitive to grassy galbanum won't dig this so much, as it's unforgiving in that area. Jules won't beat you in the head as mentioned, but it's a steady, quiet hum that lasts a good bit of the day, with the leather and other base notes just sneaking up for warmth as it dries down, but that grass never fades completely. Jules is the kind of thing that modern guys who are used to the sweetness of current masculine tropes will likely fail to understand, and probably dislike. Guys only familiar with Dior Fahreheit (1988) or Dior Homme (2005) might be alienated by the smell of Jules, but anyone who's tried Christian Dior Leather Oud (2010) has already smelled stiffer leather than this. Niche perfume fans are likely familiar with the old-school "fine perfumery" ideas on display here since a lot of their favorite niche perfumers still employ them, and anyone that loves a scent which wears it's inspirations on it's sleeve will also find Jules charming. That's really what Jules is all about: being charming, and nothing more. Letting others start the conversation, but making sure it ends memorably is the quirk of Jules. It's unmistakably and maybe irritatingly masculine to the mainstream nose, but those with a broader perspective see what's really going on here. Dior relaunched this in 2016 but mainly for the Eastern Europe market where dry and leathery scents are still marketable, likely because of the generally colder climate, so US folks will pay a bit of a premium where it shows up in the gray market or at perfume discounters who've imported it, but it's not discontinued. Vintage focuses more on the leather and oakmoss, while new versions omit most of the oakmoss and push more for a greener direction, but all forms are good for fans of the style. It is one of those rare leathers that passes in summer because of the immense green top, but it's still no casual fragrance, so don't try it at the office.
06th May, 2018
Jules is one that straddles the fougere and chypre categories. It's green to the extreme in a high-pitched, bitter, twiggy manner. Galbanum? Certainly! Cyclamen? I don't know but perhaps it's responsible for Jules possessing such a unique smell. Big mossy leather and cedarwood completes the scene.

Jewels for lumberjacks... or, at least, that little bit of lumberjack essence wired into a lot of us!

Older the better with this old school, though all pre-IFRA43 are A-OK by me. A personal top-ten I think, would say, and without any doubt have obviously just wrote.
17th January, 2018
Note: Review is of the current version.

I have a fondness for this style of retro scents, but Jules isn't for me. From the very beginning I experience a persistent accord that's sharp and green, with a lot of galbanum, and a urinous aspect. I cannot get past this phase, and do not perceive any leather or anything to balance this accord. The dry down smells far more natural, rounded, mossy-leathery with vague similarities to Derby, and is perhaps what Jules should actually smell like. Unfortunately this reprieve is too little, too late. Sillage is appreciable initially, but close to skin in the final stages, and duration is about five to six hours.

I also find some similarities with Quorum, but Quorum appears better balanced and far more wearable and enjoyable.

2/5

12th January, 2018
Disclaimer: I dislike galbanum
I had very high expectations. And I was very disappointed. All I got was Galbanum and I HATE galbanum. Perhaps I am hypersensitive to it and any fragrance that has more than a smidgen (like Devin and Jules) is just unbearable.
I just could not smell the leather.
Now after an hour or so it gets better but galbanum still overpowers everything.
Pass

15th June, 2016
Stunning green,green start. As has been said before a dreamlike, smooth, seamless transition to the Leather. This,is Masculine Leather of yesteryear, reminiscent of the Bel Ami Vintage and the like. None of the contemporary saccharine muck or the brashness of burnt whatever, or lipstick nonsense.
Extraordinary in that it doesn't soften or fade on my skin. It maintains the note and and again seamlessly moves away.
A Masculine "I want to smell like that"
Thanks to Basenoter Bavard for introducing me to one of the "Great Masculines"
09th June, 2016

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Jules By Christian Dior 3.4oz Eau De Toilette Pour Homme - Vintage BOXED (X14)

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Jules by Christian Dior 0.3 oz/9 ml EDT Splash Mini For Men New Vintage (m12)

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Jules by Christian Dior Eau De Toilette Spray 3.4 oz for Men

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Christian Dior Jules Eau De Toilette for Men 9ml/.30 oz

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Jules EDT Spray 3.4 Oz. By Christian Dior. NTWOB

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Christian Dior Jules Eau De Toilette for Men 10ml Vintage

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Jules Cologne by Christian Dior EDT Spray 100 ml / 3.4 oz

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