Reviews of Jules (1980)
by Christian Dior

Dior’s Jules belongs to a fragrance group that I like to think of as BFFFs: Big, Fat, F#cking Fougères. These include scents like Kouros, Havana, Lauder for Men, and Pascal Morabito’s Or Black. They’re all titanic, spicy, animalic scents that somehow manage to be at once savage and sophisticated, and I love them!

To my mind, Jules occupies the middle ground among these giants. It does not flirt as dangerously with the reek of wild animals as Kouros does; it does not strive for Havana’s spicy exoticism; nor does it breathe the same dark, threatening smoke as Lauder for Men and Or Black. Jules is also a bit sweeter and brighter in its drydown than the rest of them.

For all these reasons, Jules doesn’t compel me quite as much as the others. On the other hand, I can see how this same relative “neutrality” could make Jules the most appealing of the lot for many wearers. In any case, its quality is unassailable, and if you share my taste for monster fougères, you ought to give Jules a try!

Got a 10 ml from Ebay. I am really getting into the idea of the animalistic/rude/sweaty fragrance and Jules is the real first step on a path that will eventually lead me to fork out the 110 e’s for Muscs Koublaï Khän.

Jules starts off rather mysteriously and classy, definitely a scent from a bygone era. Very, very French somehow and at times it seems to foreshadow Fahrenheit. Weird at first but pleasant and it gets better with the spicy middle. All those associations of woods, dead leaves are quite understandable. It’s definitely an autumn scent, should work well with brown clothes (something I’m quite partial to.) I can understand where those with the urinous angle come from, there’s just a hint of something “off”, a sweet/sour note that basically is very pleasant but doesn’t resemble any real toilet I know of. The only problem with Jules is the longevity which is a bit average.

I wouldn’t mind having a bigger bottle of this stuff, but at the moment it’s guaranteed I won’t run into someone wearing Jules so it has the attraction of a “little secret”. Maybe it will get reissued in the future when there’s a hype/comeback for Big Masculine Scents, but I won’t hold my breath. Dior probably will release something like Higher II Light instead.

Top: albanum, artemesia, bergamot oil, cumin, green notes, laurel, lavender and wormwood
Middle: black pepper, carnation, cedarwood, sandalwood, rose and jasmine
Base: amber, oakmoss, tonka bean, olibanum, musk, fir, Russian leather and castoreum.

Not worth the exorbitant prices on ebay, but this is an excellent fragrance. Jules opens with a spicy herbal blast very similar to Santos Concentree (Cartier - 1982) but as it dries down it differs greatly. The drydown is very smooth and the more prominent notes are the leather, oakmoss and fir, some cumin, wormwood and sandalwood are left over from the opening.

Jules is not as dark a scent as Santos Concentree, but it's in the same vein. The dryodown is slightly sweet and very green and masculine.

I love Vibert's review and description as a BFFF. Jules is squarely in the category of 80s powerhouse masculines. Highly aromatic, I detect a lot of sage in its early stages with galbanum, tobacco and even a touch of citrus lurking underneath. The drydown is unusually smooth, with tobacco/woodsy notes entering the mix as the aromatics mellow out. The base is more 'leathery' smooth than actually smelling of leather. There are moments, particularly in the top/heart, when I can almost detect flashes of another 80s great, Ralph Lauren Monogram. However Monogram was anything but smooth, and in smoothness Jules is more like Aramis Tuscany per Uomo Forte.

What sets Jules apart from its brothers and makes it so enjoyable in today's age is that volume is turned down, and accordingly the 'obnoxious' factor associated with so many 80s powerhouses isn't nearly as noticeable. Accordingly, the sillage isn't outrageous (which isn't necessarily a bad thing), but the longevity is very, very good (8 hours).

Few masculines born of the late 70s/early 80s have stood the test of time so well. Polo is one, Aramis Tuscany, and the now-defunct Rochas Macassar. Dior Jules is among these greats. It's rare that I feel like wearing an 80s masculine, but when I do Jules is at the top of my list. Although increasingly hard to find do not despair as bottles are out there and can always be ordered directly from Dior in a pinch.

This review is based on trials carried on on two samples, one from a bottle dating from 1981 and another one recently bought.

After wearing the old sample on my left hand and the other one on my right hand, I could identify some differences that I can't blame on reformulation - 25 years must have had an effect on the old sample. Still, differences are minimal. Thus, descriptions about Jules being "raunchy" and "manly" because of its indolic floral, animalic and leatherish notes are right. However, these floral notes are more prominent in the vintage sample, heavy animalic notes dominate the actual sample. In this one, floral notes are present in a shy, subdued way.

Jules opening is characterized by straightforward animalic notes, ground for the descriptions on its manlyness. The drydown is marked by the heavy presence of leather to such an extent that I have to run the risk of saying it is the most leatherish scent I have ever tried. Having said this, it is clear that notes are easily associated with what could be described as bodily smells. As I have said before, floral notes clearly present in the old sample are very much tamed in the new one, perceptible to some extent, but in a very subdued manner.

As you may have thought, Jules is not for the faint of heart or for lovers of contemporary perfume styles, in that sense it is in the antipodes of "fresh" and "clean" scents. For those thinking of buying Jules blind, take in mind it is far form being a safe buy. This may baffle those having read Jules being a "holy grial" or "must smell"; it might be so for those appreciating difficult to understand scents or aficionados into particular, unique or full of character scents. These statements can make readers conclude that Jules is a curiosity, at the most, a scent to be enjoyed at home but not to be worn. However, this is not so, Jules' strong character makes it suitable for winter time, and its sense of tradition makes it perfect for formal occasions.

Jules might not be everybody's cup of tea, but it is enjoyable in its uniqueness.

Edgy juice here. Comes off very animalic on me immediately. Nothing I've tried smells like Jules and it's a BIG scent for sure.

I love that it's a linear wear on my skin and the cedar / leather base is terrific.

Russian leather must smell like civet and oakmoss... a fantastic aromatic fougere that's spicy. But beware that there's a slight civet-ness to it. I actually like it.

One of Dior's great men's scents. Relatively unknown for a while, it dropped below the radar until Dior began to offer it more widely for sale again in the U. S. a couple of years ago. This is a woody, leather (and tobacco?) scent with some unusual green notes in the top. Florals in the heart are kept in low profile by the more assertive notes, but are definitely there and eventually revealed for what they are. The base is woody, mossy, leather, a touch of oriental, and the impression of tobacco. I suspect this is a scent made to please a man. Don't think it would appeal much to many women, though they might grudgingly tolerate on a man they really liked...

Jules is one of the few resolutely masculine fragrances of any real quality. A previous reviewer described it as “raunchy”, and it definitely is. But this is a good thing. What do human beings smell like? Nice and clean? No. Should perfume smell that way? I hope it's not heading that way. Mama's boys…

Jules is a little dark and raunchy, but it’s also some of the most sublime and uplifting nose-candy imaginable. It’s a leather chypre gone lively. Full of sexy cool-warm notes, it falls firmly in the aromatic fougère category. It manages to disguise some minor structural poverty behind an abundance of mystery, melancholy, and some of the most distinguished top notes in all of perfumery. It’s amazing stuff, full of galbanum, sage, black caraway, black pepper, Russian leather, castoreum, and other goods. It’s deep and woody, full of good greens, lively herbs and spices (the less affable ones), and the appropriate florals to amplify and keep it even darker. Almost all great men’s fragrances contain a solid floral component in their heart notes, and Jules does the same. But the raunch in Jules doesn’t come from indolic florals. It comes more from an accord involving sage, cedar, black caraway, castoreum, and who knows what else, that creates something faintly urinous, sweaty, and flesh-like. And like any good fougère should do, it’s reminiscent of all the good smells on the forest floor.

But that’s too much detail. What it actually does is paint bold dark tones, using accents of rising green to highlight its umbra theme. And more than anything else, it just smells great…and a bit raunchy.

It is a pleasure to finally add my comments to this one-of-a-kind website. Hello world from Turkey. After selling a bunch of Jules we have in stock to clients in England, Spain, and the US, I recollect some thoughts about this rare fragrance. A clear scent of tobacco or leather gives a full exposure of maturity. Not recommended for a young clientele, but perfect scent for the rest. Very different from today's men cologne. Most men cologne (except Creed, etc.) are very fresh, not much perfume. Jules is like wine, the more it is preserved, the better it smells. BTW - We have Jules in stock, I hope it is OK to give our website name. www.ebesten.net

This is one of the fragrances which is carved in my mind. I guess it was 1982 and I became very interested in fragrances because I have discovered that girls were more interested in nice smelling guys. I can remember that there were girls inlove with me just because of the scent of my Arrid deodorant. Anyhow, my father had bought Jules at that time; one for him and one for me. One of the things that I can remember is that he used to shave every morning and most of the times he was before me or was already left the house. Most of the times when I was awake I could smell the scent of this fragrance and it always made me happy. Even now time to time when I wake up I can still smell this fragrance, but it is pity that they don't produce it anymore. But what I have just read here is that they still should sell it in France. I'll give it a try. It is not far away from The Netherlands.

Jules has a just plain great aroma. It is a mellow, rich, masculine scent of leather and wood. The use of pepper and carnation and basil provide an understated elegance to its richness and sensuality. Yes, it has a sour note in it just as it has an ‘dirty’ vibration, but rather than detract from the overall aromatic picture, those notes complete it—raise it from being simply another ‘pretty’ fragrance to being an incredible olfactory experience. A great classic—but it could and should last longer.

I smelled this just once as a tester - WOW - I wish it would come back - lovely maculine smell think it's the leather - lovely bottle - Dior know what they're doing all right

I am 41 years old and I bought my very first flacon of Jules in 1980 when I spent my summer vacation in Paris. I have just loved it ever after. The scent is timelessly masculine and very European (hence not well liked by Americans, I am afraid, as they appear to like their scents sweet and powdery) in its spicy, aristocratic sophistication. The base note is Cuir de Russie, the ultimate scent of the European gentleman. I am not sure whether Dior is still producing it as it has been unavailable in Germany for years already. Two years ago I purchased three flacons from a US based internet perfumer but cannot find any online purveyor that ships to Germany anymore. Je suis vraiment désolé :(

Jules, is my daily eau de toilettte.
You can still buy them in most of all perfum shops in france.
I miss the deoderant, aswell as the soap etc.

Used it from the 80's up to now.

I do forget sometimes how it smell like but I do know that it is unique and timeless.
A true 80s style without the in your face style !!
It is just like a romatic caress.
It is not a 2005 style at all and that is a plus I mean who wants to smell like YOO LOL.
To enjoy in the golden leaves of Autumn it is just adorable.
Laurent

This is absolutely the finest male fragrance ever created, I bought the first bottle back in the early eighties in Utrecht, and never met another fragrance which had such a great impact on me as this unique jewel.
Hard to get these days, I'm affraid.
Paul van Ooyen, the Netherlands

How my friend Marcel loved this fragrance! I recall that once, a little the worse for wear from champagne, he confided tearfully to me: 'Here was the odour of earth and sweet woods, so gentle, so refined, where once I walked with my first love Gilberte. At the centre of the forest we paused to savour the deep and distinguished smell, causing us to stare at each other in the astonishment of our affection, the captives of scarcely glimpsed poetic impressions which revealed to us the impossibility of tracing them to their mysterious source, so profound and with such elegant reticence did they seem imbued and simultaneously to entice us whilst withdrawing their secret. Ah, Gilberte! Ah, Jules! Where are you now?

I remember this to be an evocative and masculine scent, purchased from Paris by my then partner. I was thrilled to have owned it and I must really have a nose for the woody/leather/oriental/aromatic scents and this is one of my favourites since it's creation.
I wish it was re-released commercially, but glad that it's still in production!

I'll tell you what . . . this is a highly unusual fragrance. It reminds me of some others . . . Halston Z14 is one, but also of Givenchy III, for women! It's sure to get comments . . . not for everyone, but it's quality all the way.

After looking long and hard I finally nabbed a splash bottle of this hard to find "JULE" on EBay. I'm quite impressed with Jules and sorry to see it got discontinued. It is a very woody scent, yet smooth, not sharp and in your face like Givenchy Gentleman. There must be a floral note or two in there, as it has just a tiny bit of floral freshness. Halstons Z-14 seems just a bit similar to me, but Halston is much much stronger and heavy on the musk. Lagerfeld's Photo also is similar, but Photo is too stuffy and thick. I recommend Jules to the "hard to find" fragrance collectors. It's worth the search!

An aromatic mixture of woods, fruit and spices. Somewhat similar to Poison but much more subdued and refined. It was not a success and I haven't seen it in years.
Unlike any other men's fragrance.