The opening of this one reminds me of the sour apple-and-spices found in Catalyst for Men by Halston. It just relies much less on the spices. Ultimately it just smells like orange blossom with some slightly spoiled fruit. If you wait an hour or two until the juicier aspects have gone you'll find something like a pocket-warmed penny - sort of a Dr. Frankenstein's Pear, which is nothing like Azzaro's Chrome but sort of a robot's version of a Bath and Body Works fragrance. This is, of course, an olfactory trick, so give some credit (it also smells a bit like unsweetened barbecue sauce), but don't be wary of it. Nobody will think you smell undead. Maybe just a little odd. It is, in retrospect, so pleasantly different than most of what comes my way that I can't help but like it. If you like the idea of a ripe, cybernetic pear, give this a go.
Big citrus neroli. It has a very nice fresh leafy quality to it but predominantly neroli and one of the better choices if you like that particular note. It's for guys but I think a woman could get away with it. There's a sandalwood and cedarwood note that makes this one very interesting. It could be construed as slightly metallic but not in a cold chemical way but more in a warm copper Neroli way. I'm not huge on Neroli but it's the best take I've smelled so far. The only danger is that it might smell annoying in the office if too much is applied and it might be boring to wear daily. Wearing this in a hot climate or an evening out would be perfect. Two sprays is probably enough. A person could smell really unique with this one. There isn't any spices mentioned on the pyramid but it does have a cinnamon character to it. As it dries down it smells similar to Canali for Men, but much better. Well done!
Anarchiste opens with a bold accord of lime, aldehydes, herbs (mint, basil too?) and sour citrus notes on a classic earthy-mossy base of oak moss, tobacco, vetiver, a few spices among which cloves and cinnamon and a subtle floral note. Herbs and citrus are however the most prominent characters here, with a metallic, youngster soul, sour and zesty personality - not exactly merely "fresh", though; it's more a sort of almost industrial-medicinal spicy-herbal mood, the citrus-green notes are processed in a way that they provide more bitterness than freshness. An interesting fragrance, and probably pleasant for people who like this kind of notes; for everyone else (me included) it can soon smell a bit cloying and boring.
28th June, 2014 (last edited: 29th June, 2014)
I honestly can't understand what all this outrage and revulsion is about. Blood? Nope. "Rusty bucket?" Nada. Copper? Only on the bottle. Certainly not the Antichrist, a zombie, or even vampire juice.
After all the hoopla, what I smell is a very pleasant, well-made woody scent with a good deal of sweet citrus on top and a politely musky base. The orange top note is lightly "mentholated" by cedar leaves, and I suppose if my imagination were much more vivid I might say it smelled like cough syrup, or metal, or something more exotic and disturbing than citrus and cedar sap.
At any rate, the sweet orange and cedar soon blend with some softer, sweeter woods and a generous dash of cinnamon to make a smooth, spicy accord that persists for a couple of hours before the musky-woody drydown sets in. This accord strikes me as quite suave and sophisticated - good for the fashionable, cultured urbanite who's always perfectly accessorized.
L'Anarchiste is really very nice, versatile, and easy to wear, and hardly all that weird. The only real fault I find in it is that doesn't last as long as it could, which strikes me as odd coming from a house that's bred such marathoners as The Third Man and Yatagan.
I'm always trying to get hold of some niche, extraordinary and unusual fragrances, but the Anarchist delivered more than I bargained for.
The name is pretty well justified. It's definitely anti-establishment and unorthodox. But I'd give it yet another name - freakin Steam-Punk Goth.
Imagine a warm but gloomy evening in a XIX century London. A man comes out of a barber shop. He's kind of well-dressed and obviously just got groomed, but upon closer examination you find out that the barber shop looks quite dodgy. And what's this shady, littered alley btw? Oh, f.... that wasn't your friendly neighbourhood gay barber - that's Sweeney Todd's shop.
And the man - he lives somewhere under the London street, in a place neither sun nor wind ever reach. He's a mad engineer dwelling in the shadows of some abandoned tube station. His suit isn't dirty, but it hasn't actually been washed in years.It's just that its sociopathic owner barely ever puts it on. Most of the time it's just hanging there, deep under ground, soaking in some coppery fumes and the smell of grease that covers all the gears and clockwork monstrosities around.
That's how it smells to me. Intriguing it is, but I would never wear it in public. No way I am doing any office test with it. Damn, I couldn't even bear it on my wrist for more than half an hour - had to scrub it away.
If you want and dare to smell it, I'll bring the sample vial to you. Otherwise, it's been locked and hidden away, in a dark damp place where it belongs.