My first impression of La Myrrhe is one similar to Lubin's classic Gin Fizz, an effervescent burst of cola bubbles, as one would experience, opening a freshly shaken bottle and immediately taking a sip.
There is anise or fennel in the background and the initial take is one of light and syrupy aldehydes. It slowly begins to darken and the heart of the myrrh comes forward.
This is one of the best of the early Lutens, easily wearable by both men and women, and appropriate for any time of the day or life situation. Its honeyed sweetness is restrained and its oriental softness is both sexy and bright.
A hit in my book!
Something that I really adore about Serge Lutens fragrances is that they may look simple, but actually there is much more going on in the scent and only you can realize that after testing their fragrances several times!
This is a very nice oriental spicy fragrance and even though it says for women, I will ensure you this can be unisex and it's even more masculine that feminine!
At the opening I can smell many different notes.
It's aldehydic which makes scent clean, fresh, soapy and also gives the scent a nice classic type aura.
There is a tart fruity scent right beside this aldehydic scent that smell kind of like cherry or maybe even sour cherry.
There is also a mellow floral aroma in the background that gives the scent a soft powdery feel. and last but not least, I can smell lots of spices at the opening.
It's extremely well balanced between all type of notes because while it's tart, fresh, aldehydic, clean, soapy and nice, it's also sweet (not too much), musky, floral, powdery and rough spicy at the same time.
As time passes and in the mid that clean aldehydic feel and also cherry type of smell both settle down and at this part myrrh shows up along with musk.
The mid and base of the fragrance is a bitter, resinous, slightly dirty and kind of an oily smell of myrrh supported with lots of musk, easy to detect spices, some aldehydes and an incredibly soft powdery florals in the background.
You can wear it all year round because it's not bold in any part which makes it super versatile but I think best seasons for using this are fall and spring and maybe summer nights.
Projection is average and longevity is around 5-6 hours on my skin.
This is certainly unique - it doesn't smell like anything else I have tried. It opens with a blast of aldehydes and they stay on for quite some time. There seem to be an anise note and then myrrh. Later on, florals come to the fore with a slightly woody base. At this point it becomes more feminine and stays like this for a long time.
I appreciate the uniqueness and quality of the composition. One of the best of his exclusive Paris collection.
Myrrh is an unusual odor: dry, medicinal, and more than a touch bitter, it will appeal to some and repel many. The myrrh note is firmly planted at the center of Lutens’s La Myrrhe, and your interest in this fragrance will depend entirely upon your tolerance for the astringent resin. The myrrh note is most forward and aggressive early on, before the fragrance’s sweet-spicy oriental structure assembles itself below. Like FloatingPoint before me, I pick up a distinct anise or licorice (i.e. sambuca,) layered over La Myrrhe’s heart. For me the anise conjures up Guerlain’s classic Après L’Ondée, but La Myrrhe is a more transparent scent, as it lacks the old Guerlain’s powdery vanilla base components. In fact, La Myrrhe is one of those rare Sheldrake-Lutens compositions, along with Tubéreuse Criminelle, Sa Majesté la Rose, and Sarrasins, that largely eschew the viscous and ponderous syrupy foundation that anchors scents like Arabie, Chergui, or Fumerie Turque. All said and done, this is an original, high quality scent that features an unusual central accord and extends the range of the Lutens line in an interesting direction.
Notes: mandarin, lotus, jasmine, myrrh, bitter almond, spices, pimento, sandalwood, honey, amber, musk
This has a round, perfumed character. It is slightly sweet and with kind of 'soapy' aspect which I sometimes note in myrrh. It is a very nice scent, and somewhat atypical for Lutens in that it is not heavy, rich, foody, or overly spicy. The floral notes are lovely, and there is a continued hint of citrus even at mid-point. The incense is somewhat resinous, and darker than frankincense. It combines well with the bitter almond. A bit of powder from the amber, but not problematic.
A good scent, unisex in appeal.