Le Dandy (1923)
by D'Orsay

Is it an oldie? Is a new designer scent from 2003? Who knows? Le Dandy seems difficult to place as the benchmark fragrance for dandies at the turn of the century. Dandy is certainly a gourmand fragrance with an opening of bergamot and Oriental spices like mace, nutmeg, cardammom, a touch of ginger, and a dash of cinnamon to warm its composure followed by bourbon, vanilla, tonka, musk, and a sprinkling of powdery florals such as carnation and geranium. Le Dandy is certainly a nice winter scent, but it is spicy, heavy, and sweet. It has all the body of a 2000s something designer fragrance with all the dressings of an Edwardian classic. Le Dandy is a good experience for experienced noses, but heed my advice, experienced as it is a delight, but probably not that wearable.

All historically-incorrect information aside, Le Dandy (the reformulation) is a very elegant, crisp fragrance. It is an EDT but has excellent sillage--esp. when I use fragrance-free moisturiser on my skin to help it "stick." The ginger note stands out and mingles well with the deeper tobacco and cognac. This fragrance is not for the shy; it is brazen but not obnoxiously so. It is indeed like a Georgian or early Victorian dandy: opulent, elegant, inviting attention and admiration. It is suitable for both men and women, although marketed as a men's scent. (I understand the original formulation in the 1920s was taken up by "flappers" of the time.)

The name of this scent comes as no surprise for the original launch of the fragrance to promote the company's adopted namesake of Count d'Orsay, whom the company made out to be a parfumeur in a clever marketing campaign. In actuality, the company was formed in 1908 by partners Siegfried, Berg, Fink and Van Dyck. (Check with Prince Barry on this one, "The Perfume Handbook," second edition, and Ken Leach's "Perfume Presenations.")

I would categorise this scent as unique and unlike much of what is in production.

D'Orsay Le Dandy

The metrosexual of the turn of the 17th century was called a Dandy and we have come a long way in the two hundred or so years since that term was popular. Although I imagine two hundred years from now we'll be snickering at metrosexual, too. What both terms are trying to describe are a man of the times current in all things from fashion to politics. Smack dab in the middle, somewhere in the early 1920's, Le Dandy was released by Parfums D'Orsay. In 1998 Dominic Preysass updated Le Dandy and it was re-released. With that update Le Dandy had the opportunity to find its 21st century constituency. Back in the times when the term Dandy was used it was meant to convey a man aspiring to aristocratic values, the same can be said of Le Dandy as the dominant notes give off the sense of a smoking parlor and the men conversing after dinner in those long ago times. The top is dominated with a boozy accord that the note list calls whisky but it comes off more cognac-like to my nose. This is paired with a great anise note that really complements the liquor accord. Tobacco makes its appearance next as this scent lights up its metaphorical after-dinner cigars. The heart is a beautiful mix of spices with ginger being the most predominant of the mix. Ginger is an excellent choice as it carries some sweet and strengthens the sweet present in the tobacco. The base is a mix of woods for which I get some sandalwood and cedar, mostly. Again it is the use of the slightly sweet woods which delicately finish this off in grand style. I haven't had the opportunity to try the original vintage version but M. Preysass has created a scent that would make an 18th century Dandy or this 21st century Metrosexual happy to wear.

Once again, Vibert is right on the money with his review.

I found Le Dandy to be a terribly anemic and boozy fruit cocktail, which failed to leave any lasting impression (well, during the extremely brief period that it was present on my skin). I have no idea what the original formulation smelt like but, based on its reputation, it must have been far better than this.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I recently purchased a small vintage bottle of Le Dandy. it looks like it might be from the 40s or 50s. I didn't hold out much hope for the liquid inside, but it turned out to be wonderful. At first, I thought it smelled feminine; not like today's feminines, rich and seductive, lush and secretive. But that was just the beginning. I could not stop sniffing myself. The drydown was even better than the beginning. It lasted about six hours on my skin but much longer on my hair and clothing. Now I am afraid to buy a modern bottle of the stuff; I can't imagine it would be this good after the reformulations.

I am a real sucker for strong, sweet and sticky fruit notes and so it is impossible for me to resist this one.
Le Dandy is all about dried plums and raisins, caramel apples and fresh dates. It is ridiculously sweet and strong, plus it lasts on you around the clock whether you like it or not.

I suspect fans of thick and sweet fruity orientals such as Egoiste will like this one, although I can see it definitely being too sweet for some.

The name can be very misleading, depending on how you see the term “dandy”. But Le Dandy is no refined fragrance in a slightest bit, it is flamboyant and extremely offensive.