Douro Eau de Portugal / Lords (1985)
by Penhaligon's

I'm sorry but I really couldn't appreciate Douro Eau de Portugal. While it's a classic (albeit powdery) citrus fragrance for men, I found it to be too soft and very thin. Yes, I'm well aware it's an eau de cologne but there's nothing in this composition that I find redeeming. Blenheim Bouquet and Castile are far better offerings from this house.

It's simply bland.

[Original submission date: 01 March 2009]

This glorious fragrance is served up to you as a citric punch, that induces the tendency for multiple wrist sniffing. It dries down seamlessly into a warm Sandalwood base that compliments the freshness of the opening. If one could bottle the essence of a "Gentleman", then I can imagine that it would be similar to this. Well mannered, urbane and discreet, I will be happy to take this out in the evenings as well as in the boardroom.

A refined lemon on top, a masculine floral in the middle and a superb drydown of sandalwood. Amazing scent and great for for "high end" office jobs but this can be worn by whomever feels like it. The sandalwood is the shining example of masculinity in this scent.

Douro is very masculine, quite well constructed, very well made, and enjoyably pleasant. The citrus (lemon, lime, mandarin, bergamot) in the opening is present, but, to my nose, the aromatic (lavender, basil) element is in control of the accord. It’s a dramatic aromatic / citrus accord that has a captivating tanginess about it that holds for a long time. The movement to the middle level is smooth. The middle notes and base are discreet woods and musks: quite soapy and, yes, barbershopish. They are charming accords in the middle and base, but I find that they don’t come up to the standards of the opening, and they feel a bit thin and stretched to me. Maybe I’m being unfair because I’m comparing Douro to the fullness of several other Penhaligon fragrances: Douro doesn’t stand up to them, IMO. Douro seems to be more about style than substance, and it has style in abundance. It’s delightful, but it’s about as shallow as it is delightful. I’m not condemning it — it holds up well and I enjoy it. What Douro does, it does beautifully – and smelling nice is what it does. I don’t find it at all compelling; but it is well made and has delectably masculine aromas and is easy to wear. On my skin it has strong sillage and excellent longevity. It deserves a thumbs up, but there will be many Penhaligons that I will purchase before this one.

Douro has qualities which are similar to Blenheim’s Bouquet (BB) and some that are opposite. It conveys a sense of dignity, reserve and class, much like BB. But while BB is has cool freshness to it, Douro has a warmth. Penhaligon’s classifies Douro as an aromatic. The opening is soapy clean, with bergamot and lime dominating. Sandalwood and musk are in the base, giving a warmth to it. Undisputably masculine.

This is a very well balanced fougere to my nose, unlike their English Fern which reeks of anise/fennel, although neither is in its make-up.

DOURO is up there with Trumper's Wild Fern and Truefitt's Grafton as being a top of the line fougere

13 notes:

Top: Geranium, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Bergamot, Lavender, Basil
Middle: Neroli, Muguet
Base: Labdanum, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood