Just a little step behind vintage BEL AMI, the Holy Grail. Terrific juice, manly and in the Olimpo of perfumery. This is a prefect example about how a perfume should be done.
Moschino Pour Homme strikes me as a descendant of Halston's classic Z-14 --- a fresh, zesty spicy chypre that mellows into a warm mossy, leathery blend. It also bears more than a passing resemblance to Valentino's Vendetta (which came out a year later) and Patou Pour Homme. This is everything a men's fragrance should be --- complex, rich, subtle, bold, balanced and nuanced all at once. Bravissimo!
Moschino Pour Homme is a left over giant still projecting its class from the abysses of the 90's. A great, great leathery and mossy fougere with a bitter/rooty/herbal temperament, a stout bergamot and pungent dry spices presence, a touch of smoke, an iris/rose/leather soul and a mossy suede dry down with hints of virile ambergris. I'm waiting a sample in order to test the aroma better on skin after years before to review it throughly but I have well present and clear the perfume since I've counted Moschino Pour Homme in my old 90's rotation for long. I have well in mind the bitter/herbal/peppery compelling opening with a notable mace presence and all its indolent and almost aristocratic structure. I see for sure the Colin Maillard's reference to the renowned Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur despite effectively Moschino is a more articulated beast with its superb background of bergamot-lavender, rosemary, peppery spicy mace, vibrant ambergris and dry floral notes. The final floral, "leather/ambergris veined" and mossy dry down, as turned out smoother by hints of balsams and beeswax, is simply gorgeous. Superb and hardly paralleled fragrance still nowadays.
Tested finally again on skin: simply superb, rich of dusty peppery-green notes (almost inebriating spiciness- nutmeg, cumin, pepper, may be cloves), leathery (yes, Bel Ami jumps on mind), hyper virile (castoreum, tobacco, ambergris), vaguely buttery, velvety and powdery floral (golden). A piece of unbelievable opulent beauty.
26th April, 2014 (last edited: 10th October, 2014)
A majestic, monolithic marvel of iris and leather with a stunning depth and range of facets, from animalic to herbal. Incredible quality – both of materials and composition. The opening is just breathtaking: powerful, fresh and juicy, dry and animalic, with a dark, dense vetiver heart, floral notes, a waxy, decadent iris side which evolves in the best way I've ever smelled. Bergamot, lavender and balsamic notes – its classic "eau de cologne" side – beautifully blend with a balsamic/mossy breeze and a dry, rich, dusty, materic leather note, really vibrant and multifaceted. By far one of the most pleasant leathers I've ever tried... and we're talking about real, crisp leather, so forget nowadays' overpriced safraleine-based crap leathers which smell like burnt tires (Cuir Garamante and the like, anyone?). A sort of mediterranean, shady, hyeratic fougère with two major, incredible-quality main characters – leather and iris. The drydown lets the duo emerge even better, all the side/head notes gently vanish until you get this endless, perfect accord, which lasts for hours, with a gentle hint of talcum. Also, after a while the drydown gets unexpectedly slightly similar to Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur – just a bit more vast, dry, dense, less floral and transparent. Astonishing quality. Also really contemporary and wearable, I know sometimes the terms "1990s" and "fougère" may let you think of "old" stuff... this instead has a linear and vibrant personality which looks perfectly "fit" and modern.
Near the highest nice parfum
This one is balmy rose and iris; hot sensual leather .
with minor effects of bitterness and smokiness
Everything is bathed in a softness unknown in modern cheap perfumery
for the evening and for everyone want smell beautiful!
update: complex too much to understand all aspects.
for example in the dry down there is a marvelous ambery (but not too sweet) note that grows, never boring never synthetic.
definitely for all age
definitely not for altar boys
Pros: high quality,nice orris note, beautiful ambery notes
Cons: sometimes could be too much"