Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904)
by Guerlain

The initial blast of civet can be quite overpowering. So, lt it settle down a bit before smelling. overall, nice mixture of lavender, civet and citrus. all in all, i find it more "soothing" than jicky (probably due to the prominence of the lavender in MdM) and more interesting than caron's PuH (which is largely lavender plus a bit of vanilla to my nose). Love MdM's drydown which gives a genteel aura...

31st August, 2011.

A sweet and dirty fragrance. On top is citrus--orange and lemon. Next comes the fougere characteristic of lavender, which assists in making the rose more masculine. To sweeten things up, a good dose of vanilla is added. Most prominent and long-lasting of all, the base contains civit, musk and ambergris. This huge, animalic presence elevates Monsieur de Monsieur above the fray in terms of modern masculine fragrances. Wear it if you dare.

24th August, 2011.

I have only been wearing this once so I won't jump to conclusions right away but this is my first impression:

The notes are verry light and it's a close to the skin fragrance. I do like the fragrance I just was wishing it was projecting more. longevity is pretty weak (4 to 5 hours max)

2nd August, 2011.

A fragrance in three distinct phases.

Initially a citrusy eau de cologne with old-world sophistication as the civet throbs below the surface.

The top notes evaporate, the citrus retreats into the background and the civet takes centre stage. Here its “noble rot” pungent, sweet and slightly decayed. This is the challenging heart of MdM and it can be difficult to match to modern life. An almost fecal sweetness, emphasized by the vanilla and lavender long distances it from anything modern. Its not edgy or sexual, its refined and urbane, with top hat and tails, and a fragranced handkerchief. Enchanté.

Finally the civet dries down and the scent deconstructs itself into elements of lavender and vanilla.

Yes, the fragrance of the Belle Epoque, wonderfully rendered, probably wafting from a carriage hand-tooled by Hermés.

I liked it enough to pony up the cash. Actually, I must really like it as Guerlian is owned by LVMH and I try to avoid buying anything LVMH.

Very nice Bee bottle too.

4th January, 2011. (Last Edited: 8th January, 2011.)

Jicky, who was already considered slightly irregular from birth, has a renegade young brother called MDM: He insists it be pronounced "em-day-em" regardless of which country he's tearing apart with his inimitable allure. It is often said that the devil is a charming man--and as many would have it, he can really dance. Accordingly, MDM skips merrily into all the best parties, dancing with all the finest ladies, cavorting with the highest ranking gentlemen; chatting ernestly with interesting-looking unknowns. MDM would never wait in a queue, inexplicably looks dashing barefoot in a running suit three days unwashed, and even more spectacular in black tie: His sartorial choices are always unexpected. MDM is the one who will show up impeccably turned out in a Brown Tux, pulling that off famously. In hushed tones, it is said that he is a bit of a scallywag--yet only the chosen few know of his secret passions, while most everyone else considers him entirely untouchable: A study in blithe well bred aloofness. However; the seemingly distant MDM has been known to entertain devotees with his body in very unusual places, since there are so many admirers, and so little time: He's tall, dark and handsome--and only looks like Sister Jicky in proportion. He has his sister's wildly inbred proportions and singular facial features, but his colouring is distinctly different: Where Jicky got mousey medium ash blonde hair and blue-green eyes, MDM got ebony hair and chestnut eyes along with the family skin, inherently colorless. MDM's thick black hair is so luxuriant that he wears a full beard at all times, allows the hairs on his head to become long and full of ringlets, further contrasting with his sisters fine English straight hair, and staunchly disdains body epilation. He's Jicky's dark, hairy little brother who ravages everyone where ever he goes with no remorse whatsoever. He goes by, and his odor reminds you of his sister, inexplicably detained in a brothel where benzoin and amber incenses and pastilles are burned pretty regularly to hide the smell of Opium. All the family traits are there--MDM is every bit as fascinating as his sister, he's just a rake: He smokes various things, drinks whiskey straight up, and, whilst maintaining an unfailing gentlemanly air, he will shamelessly enthrall fans with his body for hours only to saunter out unbathed looking perfect to meet another one he intends to enthrall in public, never once wondering if a bath would be in order. He carries the smoke aura of his various haunts on his exquisite wardrobe, and always has a bit of a sebaceous smell along with it hovering about his neck: Oh! and, of course, there's also the bit about MDM's handkerchief, which he is never without. The Handkerchief of sir, very obviously soaked in English Lavender, will invariably also contain the remnants of a lover he wiped off with it, and the heady whisky soaked, smoky saliva of his mouth. If you want Jicky to have a louche brother with the morals of a demon who just happens to be stunning and impeccably clothed, never predictable but always polite, even in an orgy or a bar brawl, who's seen at all the right parties secretly en route to the most highly coveted and secretive wrong ones,
then this is your man: Naturally, as would be expected, MDM himself won't be had by just anyone--but one can always try. MDM's wanton ways may work in your favor, but only if you know the right crowd; Even this man's tricks are fallen, penniless aristocratics on a bender. For MDM, the merely average wouldn't ever figure into his considerations: He's perfectly unacquainted with mediocrity and has little time and even less interest when it shows its face. Unwavering in the realm of perfect manners, MDM would never insult you. It would just appear that he hadn't noticed your overtures, especially if they were obvious. Furthermore, MDM doesn't hang around anywhere for too long. Just when you think you might get that chance, you turn to dazzle, and he's gone--leaving behind only his signature waft of scent: the sebum of in-bred aristocratic oil glands scantily moistened with English lavender Water...Very much as happens with Sister Jicky, most can not decide if they find this pleasant, they are simply left behind by it, flummoxed by a kind of fascinated longing......

13rd December, 2010. (Last Edited: 15th December, 2010.)

The scent that made me pop my hard-earned money exclusively for the purpose of smelling good.

Before I tried Mouchoir de Monsieur, my only prototype for a fine smell was Penhaligon's and Trumper's, so I was used to more barbershoppy contraptions. Which made me blind at first to the more structured elegance of Guerlain. In the store, it did not arrest me as something I would want to wear, but I think the fougere accord challenged my nose saying "you can't say what I am, yet you can't forget me!". On the day I smelled it first, it was horribly hot outside, and all I got was a rather grandma-ish rose. But the mystery it caused in my nose was enough for me to request a sample vial.

Two days later, as the weather abated, I had a nice lazy day alone in the house. I thought it would be the perfect occasion to give it a try: should I dislike it, my girlfriend would not suffer!

And then it was a revelation: first it began with very fresh oranges and citrus, but then the rose turned in more gracefully and the animalistic smells kicked me hard enough to let me erupt in a long, blasphemical string of pleasure exclamations. And still that mystery in my nose, but now I was delighting in it. I was reading Joyce's Ulysses that day, which, like MdM, is set in 1904. It was like being there, feeling at once the gentility of the Belle Epoque, the last illusions before the Great War, and the pangs of regret that come with progress.

MdM is eminently wearable today, and if you hesitate between it and Jicky EdT, get MdM for its larger shoulders, more ample smell (can't comment on how it compares with other strengths of Jicky). It's something I would wear with a nice suit, a clean tie, and a handkerchief in my breast pocket.

6th October, 2010.