Reviews of Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904)
by Guerlain

Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur

I love weaing the old classic Guerlains and while I feel they are timeless I also feel they hearken back to a slightly different era, too. I've also heard that this 1904 creation of Jacques Guerlain is supposed to be the EdT version of Jicky. I don't think I'm ready to go that far as I think the similarities have more to do with being Guerlain than trying to be a different version of an earlier creation. From the top it is lemon and lavender with a little bergamot and this is one of the deepest lavenders I've come to wear. I certainly find it deeper than Jicky's start on me. The floral heart of this is gorgeous as a light rose replaces the lavender and this is done in stages and when the lavender and rose are in balance at the interface of the top and heart, my heart like the Grinch's grows two sizes. The base is where the civet note which I think is what everyone seizes on to make the comaprison to Jicky appears. Here I find the civet to be more prominent, than in Jicky, and in perfect balance with the classic Guerlinade finish. Mouchoir de Monsieur translates to "gentleman's handkerchief" and it does remind you of a time and place where gentlemen carried and wore a handkerchief. What I find so amazing is it still feels relevant over a 100 years after its creation.

I really love Mouchoir de Monsieur. It might seem old fashioned, but it is magical. When I wear it, it reveals different facets over time, and this is what makes it a very special perfume. Initially it is like an eau de cologne, but it has a very unusual sweet animalistic edge, but after a while it resembles Jicky with the combination of lavender and civet. However both fragrances seem to have very different personalities. In Mouchoir de Monsieur the lavender is always part of a sweet sumptuous accord, whereas in Jicky it can sometimes seem exposed like an essential oil. On the surface I also think that this fragrance is more complex than Jicky -as if extra ingredients were added to the mix. The drydown of both frarances is absolutely heavenly, with moments of beautiful perfection, as different notes pop up and combine with each other in countless different ways.

I have three bottles of this from different eras, and they are all different from each other, but my favourite bottle seems to be slightly off in the top notes for the first few minutes, but is absolutely stunning after that. Still, the current version is excellent, with the major difference being that the sumptuous animalic side seems to be a little less vivid. Regardless of vintage, this is my favourite masculine Guerlain, and it is good to be able to stockpile the current version in case it ever gets pulled.

At first I couldn't see needing a bottle of MdM while simultaneously owning Jicky, but I'm glad I abandoned that poor idea. They share about 90% of their DNA, with MdM being slightly brighter on the citrus end of things and a little bit deeper overall, perhaps because the lavender presents itself more fully earlier in the life of the fragrance.

As with Jicky, there's nothing better than being surrounded by the aroma of MdM. Some people make quite the issue out of civet... I don't get the concern.... if all fragrances could smell this wonderful, we need to use more cat parts in perfumery.

Longevity is the only problem... the strength on the skin drops quite precipitously after about 2 hours into a light skin scent, and it's pretty much fini in about 4 hours. I may experiment with a light Jicky PdT base before applying MdM to see if it makes any difference, but even if it doesn't this negative is so minor compared with the positives of the fragrances as to not really matter.

Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of the best fragrances I have ever smelled. Its opening is warm and smooth, floral with a touch of something animalic (thank the civet), with a powdery drydown with prominent notes of iris and patchouli underpinned by bergamot.
It is elegant, subtle, and gentlemanly-- but also quite dirty. Guerlain doesn't seem to confirm that there's civet in MdM (mind, they don't confirm that there's civet in Jicky either, and Jicky is a civet zoo), but there almost certainly is.
The civet in MdM is luxurious and erotic. It smells like a kiss--when you can smell yourself on your partner after a good hour of necking. It's that saliva-smell that the civet brings to the table, and it is brilliant.

MdM is frightfully short-lived, though. After only a few hours the wearer is left with a faint trace of bergamot and patchouli, which is a little disappointing. I think this should be made into an EDP.

Thumbs way up!

A civet note with a pure lavender and a floral-esque masculine note that composes a wonderful, rich lavender that's lovely and beautiful.

Mouchoir de Monsieur is another historic Guerlain masterpiece that I'm glad I own. It's obvious (to me) that it is Jicky's brother. I enjoy MdM when I don't want the in your face civet of Jicky (although Jicky carries it masterfully). This is a classic gentleman's scent which you won't smell many men wearing. It is a sophisticated lavender topped fougère that cannot fall out of fashion. I treasure my bottle because one never knows about these classics being available in the future.

A week ago, I sampled Jicky for the first time (in the parfum form) and was blown away by its refined character. I quickly searched Basnotes and learned how MdM is commonly viewed as a more masculine version. So, I went online and purchased a bottle of MdM. I've just recieved it and let me say that I have never been so excited by a fragrance. Wow. It really is everything I have been looking for - masculine, elegant, soft, refined. Dreamy. Relaxing. Breathtaking. I cannot stop sniffing my arm! Top marks Guerlain. Please don't ever discontinue this one.

Mouchoir de monsieur is the most intriguing, mysterious, hypnotic and seductive fragrance i have experienced. The first time I sprayed the liquid from that elegant bottle in an upmarket department store, I was a little horrified by the animalic quality (civet) that affronts your nasal passages. 'Something refined, highly regarded and expensive wouldn't smell like this?' I thought. And it seemed so 'alien' in its vast difference to any of today's bland, unisex fragrances.

But as the time passed, and the fragrance settled, it's seduction truly took effect. It wraps you in a soft, 'velvety' olfactory glow that carries you off to another time, another world, where incredible style and sophistication exist for those who desire it. With SO much character, today's world of mass-produced, bland unisex fragrances seem insignificant next to this aristocrat of the scent world.

Yes, it's expensive. (Though a bargain compared to Creed scents!) Yes, it's rare. But it will set you apart. It is not a man's scent. It is a gentleman's scent. For a prince among men.

This is another classic from a hundred years or so ago. The folk wisdom is that this was the follow-up EdT version of the 1889 Jicky.That may or may not be true... Now there is an EdT version of Jicky, and I can tell you, personally, I like Mouchoir de Monsieur much better.

The official notes (from the Guerlain website) are:

Head notes : Lavender, bergamot, verbena;
Heart notes : Rose, jasmine, neroli;
Base notes : Fern harmony, patchouli, vanilla, iris.

Other folk wisdom says there's civet in this, but Guerlain doesn't seem to confirm that... or are they just trying not to alarm the timid among us? Or is it possibly subsumed under "fern harmony?" I definitely smell something like an animalic note in this, but perhaps it's just because I want to believe it's really there.

In any case, my take on this one is that it's a beautiful snapshot of what masculine elegance seemed like at the turn of the last century; and having said that, I want it to be the epitome of masculine elegance today as well! The feeling I get when I wear this is superb, like walking on air. No matter what's going on in my day-to-day pedestrian existence, I can't believe there's anything to be concerned about if I smell this good.

The wonderful thing about M de M is that you can wear it in just about any temperate weather, although I do think it's nicer in the spring, on a cool-to-mild day. People who encounter it on me seem a little perplexed at first, but if they've noticed, they usually have something very good to say about it. It's quite different from anything else out there (except maybe Jicky), and so it usually gets remarked on a bit more than the run-of-the mill scents people are over-exposed to.

I have worn this to work, although for me, it works better for leisure situations. It's just that it's hard to be other than carefree when I'm wearing this; it takes an effort to feel I'm seriously responsible for anything other than existing and communing with the beauty of life.

If there's one word for this scent, as far as I can tell, it would have to be "optimistic."

Mouchoir de Monsieur ('gentleman's handkerchief') was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1904 and still has a loyal fan base. It's from an epoch where well-to-do, hat-wearing ladies promenaded with their gloved hand under the arm of elegant monsieurs. In the gentleman's breast pocket sat a small handkerchief, and it was 'bon ton' to offer this handkerchief lightly perfumed with cologne to the lady as a romantic souvenir. According to Guerlain, Jacques initially conceived this perfume along with its female counterpart Voilette de Madame as a gift set for a friend's wedding. Heavy perfumes were not in fashion at the turn of the century, so this fragrance is a delicate, aromatic fougère. Some argue that Mouchoir de Monsieur is basically a more straightforward version of Jicky, i.e. Jicky without the balsamic opoponax base note.

a kind of supreme elegance from past times
a dandy's perfume

one must dare wearing it, surely more difficult to wear than Jicky with which MDM shares many notes
one of the most magnificient fougere ever created, light and fresh, slightly animalic due to civet (i guess that nowadays it's synthetic civet) with a powdery drydown
ten thumbs up for me !

Head notes: lavender, bergamot, verbena
Heart notes: rose, jasmine, neroli
Base notes: fern harmony, patchouli, vanilla, iris
“Refined, elegant, subtle”... from the Guerlain site
Mouchoir de Monsieur is indeed an old style of scent... the scents and scentsibility of a bygone era. The opening is so brief that I missed it. The heart notes are quite floral and powdery, and I don’t particularly care for this phase. However, when the florals burn off, MdM dries down to an interesting, dry fern and patchouli accord. The patchouli here has a light wood tone, and the fern is very attractive. The shift between heart and base is so different that I sprayed it again... it is two different scents. Interesting! There is very light vanilla in the dry-down. Normally I don’t like that but it is restrained here and it works.

God I hope this doesn't have as much civet as Jicky does.

Someone once described Mouchoir de Monsieur to me thus: "Spray Eau de Toilette of Jicky thrice, and Eau de Parfum of Shalimar once into the air, dress it off with a squirt of Eau Imperiale, and one of Eau du Coq, and you shall have the closest approximation to Mouchoir de Monsieur I can give you, and lord knows I've been in the fragrance business for 39 years..."

Well, I'm not sure about others, but that description was somewhat accurate for me. Once, in Munich, I boarded an elevator, in which one finely dressed man, and an even more sumptuously dressed woman stood (I could only assume it was his wife), and I smelled the most beautiful fragrance I can remember, excluding Chanel No. 5, Shalimar (extrait version), Opium, and Poivre de Caron.

I inquired :"Entschuldige mich, aber kann ich hinsichtlich was den schönen Duft, den es, daß Sie, tragen, Madame sich erkundigen ist?"

Basically, "May I inquire as to what the beautiful fragrance is, Madame?"

To which was replied, "Kein, it is not me, it is mein husband, he is vearing at zis moment Mouchoir de Monsieur..."

From what I can remember, it was soft, creamy, smooth, classy, elegant and gentlemanly, with a very warm, silky vibe. But that was a while ago, and I have spoken to many people since who've described Mouchoir de Monsieur as being redolent of civet. Maybe at the time I smelled it on that man, it had already gone throught the dry-down process?

I have just ordered a bottle online, and hope not to be disappointed, as I found the civet in Jicky a little affronting, even though I do adore it. I am hoping, with Mouchoir, for something a little more subdued...

For me it became a real and welcome and unexpected substituition for quite feminine (IMHO) Jickie. Greate and sumptuous scent, unfortunately it's not intended for modern every day life. But for some special events it makes you feel rising to the occasion.

This classic put nowadays tendencies in male fragrance to shame because it represents not only a different age but also different( and much better) class.Exquistely leathery, with a luxurious touch of civet, but also very fresh opening notes and refined drydown. In this scent , like in only few others, one can still smell precious essences in their most puristic, raw, lavishly expensive version, long before synthetic notes took over. An unusual and exclusive experience, preferably suitable for( extremely) formal wear.

Having read that this is the "masculine version of Jicky" ( a particular favourite of mine ) I began my search for this Guerlain classic, and I must say I think I finally have found what I was looking for. Not quite as floral ( lavender ) as Jicky, and with an intense note of civet that is right up front, Mouchoir de Monsieur is without a doubt my fragrance of choice. Because of the heavy civet, I would warn the curious to try it before you buy it, unless you are like me and know pretty much what to expect. Longer lasting on me than most of Guerlain's products ( like Eau de Coq and especially Eau de Cologne Imperiale ) it is well worth the price and the effort to find. Another reason why Guerlain is really the only fragrance house that matters.

One of Guerlains great compositions-soft,warm,powdry but a smell of the last century.To my opinion it is dated and it´s an old gentleman´s scent.Something for elderly and mature men...
Very decent, distinguished and sublime.
But to me to boring....It is not the inmortal scent that lasts for eternity-if you think of tabac blond, cuir de russie,bandit, chanel5-these are the scents that will -even used in 2006-be actual.Do not misunderstand me -muchoir de monsieur is a grat scent but of another century and world.Even Jicky and Mitsouko (what a great perfume)do not smell so dated but as I´ve said this perfume is a milestone in the history perfume and will remain a grat scent forever but......And for all the designer of 2006 : take an example: this is perfume making on a high,high level!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The civet is quite strong in Mouchoir de Monsieur and it is prominent for three or six minutes into the opening notes. When it has mellowed a little, what remains is a sophisticated lavender / bergamot accord that is classic French school—tasteful, artistic, cultured, with a touch of the nasty. It’s a adult accord, handsome and complete. The flow from top notes to the florals of the heart is smooth and seamless, as is the movement to the vanilla, moss, and amber base. It is a silky and rippleless fragrance, undoubtedly created in a less frenetic era than many of us experience today.
Mouchoir de Monsieur has a real weight to it: the notes and accords aren’t heavy; that’s not what I mean. What I mean is that it is a mature, refined, and imposing scent; the civet adds a stability to those qualities that makes for an incredible sense of presence without olfactory oppressiveness. This scent carries the weight of authority, privilege, timelessness, and exquisite taste.

Elegance, class and wonderfully inviting. About as good as the perfumer's art ever attained. Not sure what's in it but wow. The best.

The definitive representation, without question, of taste, culture, cultivation, manners, assuredness, and character in a perfume.
Wear in anywhere and anytime, and please don't indulge in silliness when you do.
Perfection.

The best of the Guerlains for men. All the rest is either too silly (Habit Rouge), stiff (Derby), pompous (Heritage), outlandish (Coriolan) or plain boring (L'Instant). Lots of civet which soon evaporates into a very balanced and unusual accord. Not for the too young.

This is a newer addition to my fragrance wardrobe, and it continues to grow on me. Mouchoir de Monsieur is my gentlemanly fragrance for those rare occasions I wish to come off as regal, sophisticated, and smoothly mannered. More often than not, I wear Mouchoir when I interview applicants for work-- I think it has a very expensive and somewhat intimidating smell to it that suits my wicked interview style. I liken the smell to a men's Chanel No. 5, but more subtle. It is masculine, but smells feminine in that "older" way.

One of 3 mens Guerlains I use including Eau Imperiale & L'Instant. Of the 19th century if technically 5 years shy; warm, soft, comfortable and mature. So appropriatly named as it smells just like a clean handkerchief (perhaps pocket square is more apt)

To me this is the epitome of a classy, mult-purpose gentlman's scent. Wearable most anytime with a strange opening that opens quickly to a much more likeable, long-lasting drydown.