Perfume Directory

Muscs Koublaï Khän (1998)
by Serge Lutens


Muscs Koublaï Khän information

Year of Launch1998
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 553 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerChristopher Sheldrake
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Muscs Koublaï Khän

Muscs Koublaï Khän is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 1998 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake

Reviews of Muscs Koublaï Khän

Musky crotch smell and then it just turns into something like a floral musk.

Strong projection and longevity.
09th April, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Now this is a musk! The opening starts with a mix of fresh cistus and a crisp castoreum; soon a faecaloid and rebellious civet appears and provides the core of this creation. This is a convincing musky-civety note, and although it appears to have lost edginess and darkness over the years since it has been released. Still, skanky enough to impress, at least in the opening phase.

In the drydown a pleasant rose appears, but it never goes beyond a mere accompnying rôle. The musk mellows, softens, a change that is supported by a surprisingly smooth patchouli. The faecaloid top notes undergo metamorphic change into a more pleasant, civil and nigh elegant composition.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a very impressive longevity of twelve hours on my skin.

A classic, paradigmatic musk creation for winter days, well blended and of good quality ingredients. A musky must for the musk lover. 3.75/5.

Le Musk de Serge
28th December, 2016
This is devilishly divine! :) I ordered a sample and had to buy a bottle after first sniff. True to its reputation, Muscs Koublai Khan is animalic as all get-out - but in a knowing, sophisticated way, neither crude nor overweaning. It's not even edgy: it's elegant, but just barely. This masterfully blended symphony of musk, civet and floral notes presents itself in all of its complexity, take it or leave it. I'll take it! It's just lovely.
01st August, 2016 (last edited: 02nd August, 2016)
This perfume's hype as a stinker is greatly exagerated.
I don't get the urine/fecal bomb that others speak about. Yes, it is a bit animalistic but, not as bad as most reviews here will have you believe and in fact, it is very nicely and tastefully done.

No overwhelming fecals, or salty sweaty after copulation smell, no camel or unwashed rider, no sweaty female delicates or, any other metaphorical description that has been used to convey how this perfume smells.

Having said all that, my skin has a tendency to tame what others perceive as seriously animalistic perfumes. On my skin this is a nice masculine dark floral, with some mild animalistic and spicy nuances which, gives this perfume a sexy/sensual vibe.

Mine is a new 2016 bell bottle from which I wore two swipes. I will decant 2ml into a spray and see if there are any differences when this perfume is atomised. I shall adjust this review accordingly.

EDIT: I have decanted it and pumped three full blasts, one to my chest and one on each wrist. Sorry but, on my skin, I get none of the fecal, post-coital, camel's butt or, any of the other metaphorical niceties used to describe this perfume... But, I does make me feel very sexy and, that feeling got confirmed.
I am currently out meeting some friends and, I got a comment from a young woman in the bar (we are waiting for our table)... " what are you wearing?... you smell darn sexy!" I am in my 50's and, being complimented like that by a much younger woman has made my day!
My friends want to know what I am wearing too but, my lips are sealed!
Loving this... MKK where have you been all my life?
26th July, 2016
An experiment after reading all of the positive reviews. I wore musc, or "musk" as it was called it back in 1978 for a while. I wasn't that fond of it back then, but it was the new, "thing", and so I wore it. Well, I can say that nothings changed. I still don't care for it. The opening blast of Muscs Koublai Khan was shockingly fecal! I had read that, but honestly couldn't quite believe what I was sniffing on my skin. I have to laugh as I think about this. My journey through the world of fragrance has taken me from unbelievably incredible scents, to urine and feces. I honestly don't understand why fecal is an appealing note in a fragrance for a human being, but this frag is pretty popular, so I guess I don't need to understand it. I also don't think this is one I'll need to experiment with much more. Perhaps when I'm feeling, "pooped" out, I'll give it another try.
17th May, 2016
I recently tried a very fresh sample of Koublai Khan for the first time. It is indeed intensely animalic. In fact, I truly did not fully understand what animalic meant until I smelt this fragrance. I mainly detect the civet, musk, and spices. I can detect a tiny bit of rose if I close my eyes and inhale deeply. I am unable to pick out the other notes very well, though. I would not describe it as powdery at all. I expected this to be more of an oriental despite its label as a chypre, and if it can be labelled an oriental, it is not the type of oriental with which I am familiar.

I know many parfum lovers eschew the notion that scent has a gender, but I think Koublai Khan definitely leans very far toward the masculine. This is not to say that the right woman could not pull this off, but to my nose, this is a masculine scent. I think it would smell quite sexy on the right man. In fact, sex is the first thought that came to my mind as the top notes began to quieten down. This is the smell of intensely sweaty, musky, bodily fluid SEX that lingers on one's body and one's sheets after copulation.

Upon first spray, it really filled the room. It was big and bold which I had not expected at all. It had great projection and sillage. After a while, it began to quieten down to a moderate+ projection and moderate++ sillage. Longevity is moderate++.

There is no doubt that it is a high quality fragrance, and it is unlike anything else I have ever smelt before. If you are a woman, definitely try a small sample this before you invest in a full bottle for yourself, especially if you tend to favour very feminine parfums. I like it for what it is, i.e. a very masculine fragrance, but I would not wear it. I do not think I could pull this one off. The thumbs down rating is because I doubt very many women could wear it, and because there are other men's fragrances that I think are much nicer. I would not recommend this to either men or women. Sorry.
18th April, 2016

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