I admit I jumped into the deep end with Muscs Koublai Khan. But what hooked me was that not one review of this scent was lukewarm; people either detested it or loved it. MKK was a 1.5 ml vial among 9-10 1 ml vials I purchased, almost all musks, ambers and/or leathers. On me MKK doesn't smell like urine cake, peed on toilet, clean or sweaty balls, cats in heat, barnyard, cows, ass, any of those things. I have worn it 3 times so far.
It goes on sharp at the top of my nose, but not irritating at all, more like the smell of a clear alcohol drink, a G&T on ice or martini with Hendricks. 10-15 minutes in, the closest it comes to the stables is a sweet clean smell redolent of well-tended horses. Then a little sour, a little salt to ground the increasing sweetness of the musk. It remains earthy in such a way that I sniff at my skin compulsively. I would love to smell it on a man. No longevity or sillage; on me, it is purely a skin scent, one that I have to reapply. About 2 inches from my skin, I can't smell it at all.
After a few hours it fades down to something approaching dusty, spicy old rose, but not. Doesn't resemble any flower that I know of. Unless it is flowers in a sun-dappled clearing in the depths of a deciduous forest where I have just dismounted my horse after a gallop. Flowers that grow in the sour, rich must of the leaves, combining with the scent of my horse, faint leather -- and above all my skin. It is a scent that waits to be pollinated, consummated, to be tasted, sniffed, or rubbed against.
I absolutely love this stuff. I am certain it would smell different on a man. On me it's female, carnal and subtly suggestive with no skank at all. (Trust me -- I've smelt Putain des Palaces, Bal a Versailles, and Bogue Maal.) MKK requires a man to come close to enjoy it.
I have a renewed fascination with perfume after years of abstaining due to fragrance allergies, prior to which I wore Bvlgary Black, YSL Paris before that, Equipage, and other green scents even earlier. After years of deprivation and envying the enticing sillage wafting off other women, I became convinced (hopeful) that with so many fragrances out there, there had to be at least one for me.
Now there is MKK, God bless Serge Lutens. I await 4 other SL vials including Tubereuse Criminelle, and FM Carnal Flower -- none of which I would have entertained trying were it not for my adoration of MKK. Something to be said for jumping in at the deep end.
This is a very incense based fragrance, so much so it really reminds me of strolling through the hippy markets in Goa and taking in all the glorious wafts of authentic Indian josticks.
Muscs Koublai Khan is funky like James Brown. I can vouch for that for real. If the God Father of Soul were still with us today, I would send him a bottle of this juice as a gift. When I wear it, I feel like listening to Sex Machine and shakin my money-maker.
Finally got a bottle after all these years! My mom went to Paris last week and she had to go all the way to Palais Royal Sheishedo to get it.
I am speechless, I love this scent. No need to deconstruct. You just have to smell it to appreciate it.
This is why I love Serge Lutens...
Muscs Koublaï Khän is a wonderfully animalic, raw but also a very soft, gorgeous scent. I really love this one, for a lot of reasons. I think mainly because I love to be challenged and I love the smell of classic perfume, like Jicky and Shalimar. I love the way those earlier perfumes were both soft and dirty and sensual all at the same time. Muscs Koublaï Khän and Musc Ravageur remind me of that.
I actually think that this one is much more authentic and raw than Musc Ravageur. I really get the honey and civet here. What Muscs Koublaï Khän is all about, is Honey and Civet and Rose and spices. In the beginning I get the florals and Musk side by side. It dries down to a beautiful Amber and Patchouli base. I don't get the Cumin but I do get the Ambrette seed and Caraway seed. Basically I would describe this as a spicy Rose fragrance. Nothing sweaty or "fecal" about it (as others have mentioned). This reminds me of sexy warm skin. Warm with perfume and a little hint of sweat, but not really too dirty. As others have said, it smells "intimate" and more than a little sexual. I think it's fantastic.
I would say a little application goes a long way. This is actually a fantastic dirty and spicy Rose fragrance, and very sexy to wear. I think anyone could wear this, male or female, and it would go well with fine clothes when you are all dressed up. It's powerful but soft, and sexy and seductive. This is why I love Serge Lutens, it makes me feel that real perfume is still being made even today. Be patient with this one, and perhaps you will see the beauty inside the beast. Beauty and sensuality, just pure joy.
Fascinating and very sophisticated, Muscs Koublaï Khän is a supremely balanced exercise in animalic notes and oriental associations. Vast amounts of “furry” ingredients (civet, musc, and ambrette seeds) conjoin to create a gorgeous illusion of relaxed physicality, living bodies, and warm skin. A light ambery sweetness and a pinch of rose support the main theme with perhaps a tiny dose of the Lutens hallmark spiciness. All in all, a beautiful, very relaxing, and supremely confident fragrance.
Muscs Koublaï Khän has spawned a lot of heated discussion, controversy, and hysterical reactions – one might easily get the impression that this is some kind of ironic postmodern attempt to create something outrageous for the sake of that alone. That would be wrong; this is not État Libre d’Orange’s deconstructed bodies and avant-garde secretions. Muscs Koublaï Khän is essentially a contemporary reinterpretation of classic approaches to animalics in the finest French tradition. There is nothing ironic here. This is simply a magnificent civet-musc perfume with some wonderfully complex nuances and a charming carefree classiness. Exquisite.