Navegar (1998)
by L'Artisan Parfumeur

My experience of the L'Artisan Parfumeur line is sharply divided. There are some I adore (Fou d'Absinthe, Tea for Two, Méchant Loup, Dzongkha); some I detest (Timbuktu, Bois Farine, Piment Brûlant, Fleur de Narcissus); some that disappear so quickly that I can't tell what I think (Dzing!, Passage d'Enfer); and several that just bore me (L'Eau d'Ambre, Ambre Extreme, Safran Troublant, Anans Fizz). To the last group I now add Navegar. On my skin Navegar starts out as a standard issue aquatic, with quiet cucumber-melon overtones and just a hint of floral sweetness in the background. Cedar, and then vanilla enter the mix within a few minutes, and there the fragrance stays for an hour or so, before exiting on a flimsy cedar raft. It's pleasant, it's inoffensive, but it's nothing I can get myself worked up about.

The opening was above average - an arid yet slightly tropical pepper and cucumber (the latter of which must represent some sort of sleight of hand judging by the listed notes) layered over cedar. Visions of walking the plank somewhere out in the Carribean with Blackbeard's cutlass gouged into your back spring to mind.

But, just when I was getting interested - POOF! - it was gone. We're talking within the first 90 minutes. I mean, they should call this juice Blackbeard's Ghost, it's so fleeting. I must note that I applied it rather generously from an open-ended sample vial; perhaps dowsing myself using an atomizer would have produced better results, but who's going to pay L'Artisan prices for that?

In summary, the opening (which is really all there is) is okay, but the longevity is absolutely criminal. Spend your well-earned bread elsewhere.

Edit 24 July 2009

I like this even less now that I've tried it during the summer months. Not only is the longevity subpar, but I find the lack of projection off the skin incredibly disappointing as well. I just don't understand the purpose of this fragrance. Utterly forgettable - another half-used vial for my brother.

I find this fragrance to be rather refreshing. I bought a full bottle and didn't regret the choice. To me, the subtlety is charming. It's a lush aquatic with the characteristic spicy pepper notes. I think it works all year round, but I will admit that it has a distinctively fall-like character to it. Almost like the smell of a November rain. The sillage is weak, and the lasting power is rather pathetic, but I don't think that's all there is to this fragrance. For some people, the fragrance is meant to be enjoyed by the wearer, and not everyone within a 10 foot radius. That's the way I feel about this one. I don't care if other people can smell it. I have a personal relationship with this one. I wear it when I want something cooling and calming. I don't think it's half bad at all, honestly.

Completely useless fragrance with boringly shy character. Lime note comes out quite nicely but then if I want lime there are much more delicious options available.

Navegar is one of those “little bit of this little bit of that” scents which leaves no impression of whatsoever.

Slightly citrusy fresh, slightly spicy, slightly woody. Weak with minimal sillage. Nothing to get hold of.


For Navegar I have a big fat yawn and thanks for the waste of time.


Stupendously tiring niche fragrance.

Slightly aquatic on application, this fragrance quickly becomes dry and peppery. It is a staid, serious scent- evoking black tea, an old suit, the office of some high offical. Thankfully it eventually lets down its guard, and a sweet menthol (anise?) eases its way in. At this point the fragrance smells wonderful, the scent of a barbershop where men are being shaved. Finally, a gentle, not-too-spicy incense changes places with the pepper, and quietly fades away.

A wonderful, mature scent which stays close to the skin.

The pyramid lists incense, but it should more accurately list Frankincense to avoid any confusion.
The base smells of very high quality lemony frankincense tears with cedar in the back.
Spices never take away from the freshness that Navegar has from start to finish.
I've seen this listed as green and grassy, and I disagree.
It starts off with cucumber, black pepper and citrus, this works somehow.
The aquatic/cucmber note lasts well into it's development, when it becomes more herbal and drier, but still fresh and clean.
Finally it becomes dominated by a very pale and fresh frankincense, that others may have confused with juniper/lime, as the best frankincense can do.
A very different "Fresh" scent.