Reviews of No. 88 (1981)
by Czech & Speake

No.88...this is the first time I sampled it, and I have really been wanting to know more about this one. I didn't know what to expect, however, the men have been talking about how it is a "masculine rose", so that is the impression I had before today. Having been disappointed by many so-called "rose" fragrances, I am open to trying almost anything where rose is the main attraction.

No.88 is really pushing me out of my typical zone of knowledge--the combination of notes is very unusual. At the start, I smelled rose, soap, patchouli, and leather. It was not the castoreum type leather I wrote about yesterday, but rather a sharp, astringent leather similar to what I have smelled in some from Parfumerie Generale and a few other scents such as Ambre Russe. As the scent developed, the rose stayed strong, and the soap faded. The leather became stronger, and along with it, a smoky, incense smell which often comes with birch tar. The drydown is soapy again, and musky. the rose has pretty much faded, and a tiny bit of the leather and incense is also still present. The musk is soft and sweet, and reminds me of the musk in Chanel Eau de Toilette drydown. I don't smell any patchouli at all now.

This scent is quite interesting. The rose is very important, but works together with the other notes, so it is not really all about rose. Rose with leather and incense is a combination I have never smelled, but I have blended my own oils using rose, sandalwood and frankincense, so it makes sense to me that a combination like this would work. Longevity is pretty good so far, but the most interesting middle phase has already gone after a few hours. I am not sure why the guide gave it only 3 stars...I think it is better than that.

Afterthoughts on the late drydown...sweet fougere, not unlike Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta. No.88 is a strange, dark, incense rose with a wonderful top to bottom composition and excellent longevity. I know nothing of the house C&S and what they were aiming for with this scent, but I think what they got is sort of like a steam-punk victoriana scent (a la Wild Wild West). I will enjoy wearing this again!

I used to own a very small fragrance house. We had a formula that was very popular, but prohibitively expensive to produce. It was based on an accord of Bulgarian rose absolute and henna absolute. There is something in this blend that reminds me so much of that accord that it's uncanny. I smell henna flower absolute. Who knows if it's really in there or is just an illusion based on the accord of notes from other sources. At any rate, I love it. I had no idea it was so powerful. I sprayed myself three times prior to a fundraising event tonight. I was rather self conscious most of the evening with the billowing clouds of sillage pouring off me. But is was so intoxicatingly gorgeous, I ultimately didn't really care!

Art & emotion … this is what No.88 is all about!

A GOTHIC, VAMPIRIC and DIABOLIC cologne - undoubtedly a perfect signature fragrance for DRACULA.

The almost unanimous opinion is that No.88 is a monumental fragrance. I was awe-struck by its grandiose status, so I timidly opened the door to its world… It was a transcendental experience that changed me forever… The emotional abyss sucked me in instantly and I woke up in a Gothic universe. I was overwhelmed by the gloomy atmosphere of a haunted castle, bathed in the blue light of the full midnight moon. Dark roses, funereally strewn all over the place, are accompanied with excerpts from Clint Mansell's Requiem for a Dream Soundtrack gravely resounding in the background. Here, a Gothic girl is lonely mourning the spiritual desert of the outer world in what seems to be the last ritual of an aggrieved soul... A warm and hallucinatory dizziness enshrouds her, as she hopelessly commits herself to the bloody count… It all seemed like a dream… Only the smell of roses remained as a memory of her sacrifice…

At the same time, it is THE ABSOLUTE ELEGANCE, THE SCENT OF THE KINGS! (which is only natural for a fragrance created following an original Elizabethan recipe)… A magical duality!

No.88... a nonpareil... a unique monument in the world of perfumery...

Hey Guys, I got a chance to sample No. 88 and boy! what an amazing frag this is. it reminded me of south india (south india comprises of states such as, Chennai, Kerala, Tamil Nadu etc)..people from Chennai especially have these mini temples in their houses...matter of fact in most cases these area of worship takes most part of a room, even if the house is small...offerings of Flowers and incenses burning is a standard part of daily morning prayer and after the pooja, there is a standard practise of applying paste of Sandalwood and Vibhuti(sacred ash, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibhuti) on forehead and sidearms as blessing. This paste would be freshly grinded in the morning along with the rose water to create the paste...No. 88 smells a lot like this whole equation..the soapiness that one mentions is in my mind the healthy dose of sandalwood...if one removes rose from no. 88, one could almost see the framework of Tam Dao.

it's very hard for me to picture No. 88 as "English"

This to me is the standard of men's classic colognes - opening bergamot and slight rose and sandalwood in the background is enchanting. This really clings to you throughout the day - it is my favourite of all the Czech and Speake fragrances. Its not too complex and brings together a few classic smells - you dont get any chemical interference in the bouquet, as there isnt any, which is the way fragrances should be.

This review is under revision.

A friend recently brought back a bag full of resins and essentials oils and incense and what-not gathered from various spice markets during a trip through India and Nepal. We spent a delightful coffee-buzzed afternoon smelling the resins in particular, both raw and burning, and weaving around free associating about the smells. And there was a wonderful moment when, upon sticking my nose into a bag of what he thought was frankincense, I got the most direct impression of Czech &Speake No. 88.
Which I have never loved--always liked but not loved. Too big, extroverted, complex, maybe. And then suddenly I felt as though I understood where to fix my attention when listening to this complicated fragrance. The most bouyant, exuberant note, the one that is most prominent from opening to drydown, is the liquid, dry earth and flowers of raw frankincense. Or whatever was in that little bag, at any rate. There's a lot going on in No. 88: the rose is quiet and wonderful, the green in the topnotes is pure spring morning. But to me, even waking up this morning to the drydown clinging pleasantly to my t-shirt, it is a scent about temples

I get pure head shop from this one--in a glorious manner. Czech & Speak 88 is all about rose--and Indian incense. I'm not sure which incense stick I am positively identifying, but it is probably Chandan or Laxmi, maybe even a bit of Nag Champa. It is of the "masala" type, or mixture of woods and spices, very beautiful. This perfume had me singing, "When the moon is in its seventh house, and Jupiter aligns with Mars..." It shall be mine someday.

Pluran mentions No. 88 in his review of Montale's Black Aoud, and the comparison is quite apt. Both are rich, dark, woody rose scents of tremendous intesity. I agree with pluran's assertion that No. 88 is the more complex and rounded of the two. It's more polished than Black Aoud, but that extra polish makes it less arresting than the Montale scent. Both are outstanding masculine rose-based fragrances, but I prefer the blunt savagery of Black Aoud to the sophisticated romance of No. 88. Personal preferences aside, No. 88 is a great scent, and a "must-try" for anybody who assumes that roses are not meant for men.

Wonderful; though for me this can only be worn at night in cold weather. I associate, like many others, smells with colors. To me this is black and crimson. Not for everyone, it definately has an evil streak in it. Beautiful and charming on the exterior yet at the same time sadistic inside.

The no. 88 is a distinctive cologne with harmonious blend of separate fragrance paths that make for an uplifting and jazzy fragrance blend. The rose picks up the tone with warmth and pwer right off the bat. Along with the rose I am drawn into the bergamot/clove/geranium/sandalwood combination which is the type of traditional tolietries refrain you would expect from a small bespoke bath fittings company at no. 88 Jermyn St. in London. But the no.88 really departs from its safe traditional path when the jasmine+patchouli kicks in. Tradition becomes hot jazz with a big horn section - its in your face but very much in harmony. A real classic London fragrance that I can not wear everyday, but is very special when it is pulled into service.

I first encountered C&S 88 back in the late1980's in their small shop on Jermyn Street in London. I purchased both the no. 88 and Neroli because they had a similar C&S accord (probably the clove, geranium, sandalwood) that I found comforting and over time found I preferred the Neroli. But now, years later the rose of the 88 is drawing me back to it. I also really enjoyed their Frankincense and Myrrh too; however the shop told me a few years back that the F&M was being reformulated and from what I hear they took the gothic teeth out of that one - too bad.

The differences between the no. 88 and another rose heavy mix - Rose 31 (Le Labo) can be seen in the locations of their founding shop - a tale of two cities. Hundreds of years of tradition embue the mens furnishings shops on Jermyn St. in the most traditional neighbood in London while the Le Labo Rose 31 hales from the the scrappy but creatively energetic Nolita just outside of Soho in New York. The 88 is jazz combo with horns, very uptempo with nice harmony, while the rose 31 is more acid jazz but still with its own odd harmony working through some discordant back notes. I like them both quite a lot - but they are different.

As I was up the west end yesterday, I thought it would be rude not to drop by C&S's little shop in Jermyn St & give this one a go.

Starts off with bright lemon/bergamot, then quickly settles down into a quality rose scent (you can almost smell the dew on the rose)with all sorts going on in the background. To me the Rose is dominant throughout this scent, beginning to end. It reminded me immediately of the rose water they make in the mountains of Iran & brought back memories of my travels out there quite a few years ago. What I was impressed by most about this is how jaw droppingly well it's crafted. At first you can be forgiven for thinking the genius of it is it's simplicity, but think again. The real thing to admire is how well the basenotes interract with the Rose, enriching or deepening, changing your impression about what you initially thought was a bright floral. Maybe it's this aspect which has caused some people to label this a bit "evil" or "morbid". There is also a distinct lack of sweetness, again unusual for a floral.

The downside with this is that it's quite difficult to pull off as a wearer in my opinion. It's too aristocratic for everyday use, surely. Maybe there is also a part of me not wanting to wear floral notes in public, I tend to go for very masculine cologne. I purchased a bottle, but get the feeling it will be used for personal enjoyment & days spent in solitude, rather than going out or socialising.

Drakkar Noir disguised as the Scarlet Pimpernel. Or is it the other way around? It's a Foppish powerhouse scent. Yes, I know, another 'Wow what a contradiction' review.
Allright, mate. You figure this one out!

I've been ordering 50 decants a month for the last 10 months trying to find something as wonderful as #88.

This is the scent of money, not literally, but one who has plenty. The sillage, strength and lasting power are amazing.

Smell you wrist and its not strong, but my Wife says she can smell me 20 feet away. She smells smokey rose and soap. a Upon first whiff said to order the big bottle. The only other fragrance that acts exactly like this is one my Wife wears. "Sweet Oriental Dream" by Montale. I can smell super fresh rose 20 feet from her and yet not strong on her wrist. I'm so excited I finally found something for me in the same league.

This #88 creates an aura around you that never lets go. If you like smelling like you've spent the day at an expensive spa, then look no further.

Quite possibly a perfect fragrance: rather a mood of incense will not make this for everyone, but for those who can appreciate its Gothic charms, happiness awaits.
The musk and the rose conspire to make a scent unlike others available.

The 88 arrived from London accompanied by customs slips which certified that it was not intended for chemical warfare. I should have ordered from the Cambridge Chemists, but actually enjoy paying foreign exchange fees. Kidding.

There's no hiding from this one. It opens with a blast which must be akin to the Flugabwehr-Kanone, or as it is better known, the FlaK88. In retrospect, i should not have been surprised. After all, they do have the same caliber - and likely, comparable potential to destroy armor. For a moment, i lost the power of speech and completely forgot how to speak English. The scent is so simple, it's tremendously complicated. Still trying to pour the shotglass of impressions that the 88 offers into my thimble of a brain. (haha)

This is what Marquis de Sade must have worn. It's pure evil. No, wait. This is what Ghandi must have worn. It's pure good. It's a paradox, and unlike some fragrances with which you co-operate, the 88 is a tool you use. For pure evil, pure good.

Handle with caution. (no haha)

Rose, citrus, sandalwood, fire & brimstone...magnificent. It fits Ozzy Osbourne perfectly. This is what I would imagine he'd smell like. Me? I can't possibly wear this stuff. I don't have the attitude, presence, or (clothing) wardrobe to do it justice. It's just too wicked.

A pale preraffaelite rose blooming in cold moonlight upon mine own grave.

To wit: the English rose is a many facetted thing. And where Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet represents to perfection its Victorian incarnation, imperial, orientalist and full of brimming but only indirectly acknowledged sexuality (see my review) No. 88 is a different creature altogether, as its vapors entwine John Donne's darkest moments, Burne-Jones canvasses, My Last Duchess, Aubrey Beardsley, Joy Division and the album cover of Depeche Mode's 1990 Violator. Not surprising then that I would be instantly captivated. This is the kind of scent which I have no desire to rationally understand and only feel I can adequately describe in the given associative manner.

Notes: Sandalwood and Bergamot, Geranium, Rose Otto, Cassie, Frangipanni, Vetiver.

No. 88 is a universally lauded fragrance with a celebrity client list to rival Creed. Naturally, expectations were high when I sat down to analyze and review it. Based on an old Elizabethan recipe, No.88 smells as relevant today as it did 100 years ago. Needless to say, No.88 doesnt disappoint.

No.88 is constructed around a rose note. Theres no escaping it. This is a rose scent. A manly rose scent to be sure. If you dont like florals or vetiver (which is elegantly used here), No.88 might give you a pause. Nevertheless, I suggest persevering simply because this is one of the most masterfully blended perfume concoctions around. The opening act of bergamot and rose absolute is a stunner - two notes harmoniously blended with the rose giving depth to the opening. Usually the citrus notes dissipate fast, but here the bergamot stays around for sometime - the rose then bids adieu to the bergamot, and takes no.88 further. The vetiver and rose then fuse together to create the main accord of no. 88 - an irresistable dark, woody, yet still soft and pleasant accord. The vetiver is noticeable, and its partnerships with rose absolute and a hint of sandalwood in the base creates a complex manly mossy floral drydown.

No.88 opens with fresh top notes, and then progresses to a complex floral-vetivery heart and base. Its a complex scent which I find to be very potent and quite wearable. While more suitable for the winters, it can be made to work for all situations and climates if applied lightly. This usurps Van Cleef pour homme (another excellent fragrance) as the best mens floral. While it may not live up to the unusually lofty expectations, No.88 is at the very least worth a decant or a sample for every mens fragrance aficionado. If women have Chanels No.5, men have Czech&Speakes' No.88.

If you like rose, get it, period. On me, this is like a stronger Voleur de Roses, in which the patchouli and spices are replaced by bergamot and sandalwood. Obviously, the rose takes center stage. Honestly, it's only the top and early heart notes that beat you over the head with rose stems. Mind you, these are freshly snipped, still wet with dew rose stems. If I had to choose any rose stems to be beat on the head with, these are them. But that still doesn't make it an enjoyable experience.

After that, it's much more pleasant. The woody, vetivery qualities begin to shine. As others have said, it's very well made and has a clear progression of notes through its very long life. I like the fact that it doesn't resort to a mish-mash of powder to soften the scent like so many rose scents do. It achives a solid, confident, and very manly drydown that still manages to remain refreshing and versatile. Thumbs down on the top, which is indeed very hard to pull off, and thumbs up on the amazing drydown. So, 3/4. Still a good one IMO.

This was definitely not love at first sniff. It took several times of wearing it before it really took hold of me. I found that a little goes a long way. Two spritzes are plenty. Four spritzes are just overbearing. It lasts an incredibly long time, and the basenote is a pleasing earthy rose, odd as that may seem. I don't find that it is all that similar with the Gonesh #8 incence as some do, but it does have certain elements that are similar. Personally I don't like Gonesh #8, but I do like this C&S #88. If it wasn't so darn hard to get and expensive it might become my daily fragrance.

No. 88 is perhaps the most extreme scent of contrasts one can smell. There is something citric, bright, almost ulifting about some components of this fragrance. At the same time there are notes that are somewhat cold, dank, and hard. It's got an aura about it - sillage that seems to fill a space as a cloud and not as a pungent stream. I think of spending a cloudy day sitting in an old garden with overgrown rose bushes, surrounded by a stone wall. As the heaviness of the clouds, the wall, and the decay of age starts to weigh on me, some beams of sunlight break through.

This one’s iconic All too often the actuality of these icons do not fulfill their reputation, but No. 88 fulfills with flags waving, trumpets blaring, and fat ladies singing. It’s a complex fragrance that presents so many faces. It is at once clean and dirty, dark and brilliant, ancient and modern, petal soft and rock edge hard, arrogant and subtle: It speaks to the duality of existence the way all great works of art do. No. 88 is the Sistine Chapel of masculine fragrance; however, it does require a caveat: It’s a killer scent, but it can be quite difficult to wear. I would recommend getting samples and wearing a few times before purchasing. I found that, as much as I love it, I just couldn’t carry it off.

starts off with a blast of bergamot then after a short space of time a superb rose otto fragrance which lasts ages om my skin kicks in.Finally the afore mentioned rose otto morphs into a top grade sandalwood which seems to flicker back and forth between the rose otto for the protracted bottom note.
To sum up a fresh fragrance slightly morbid for some maybe but such a change to the freshness of the usual citrus offerings for us men and consequently unlike nearly all citrus types extremely long lasting and earns a big fat thumbs up from me.

A fragrance called from me as a "grenade"! An explosion of a combination of complex ingredients. Fanstastic!!!

I am just wondering whether it was just by accident, that N°88 was designed on year before Drakkar Noir. Although quite different especially in the base notes, those two scents have more in common than just the black bottle. It sounds overexaggerating, but to me those are the first pre-punk perfumes ever made. Eager to rise controversities, but difficult to characterize it just into one direction. A somehow relaxed aggressivity.

A fragrance of cold, haunting beauty. The rose note lingers on and on,lending an air of sadness. A fragrance to admire deeply although perhaps not like.

A very aristocratic sense: abstract, clean, bright but very complex. An intelligent und very “modern” sent and a little bit eccentric: distanced but very interesting.
The rosenote in combination with the bright woody and soapy notes is morbid like an old but very cultivated castle in autumn.

Of all the fragrances I own, this is the one I have the most difficulty in pinning down, probably due to all the ingredients. But I could definitely say there is something alluring about it. To me it has a very clean edge, but not clean in the Gendarme or Cologne way. It has this soapy lemony accord that I like. It also has a very interesting rose note. There is something very "ancient" about it and I could easily picture myself wearing it to a ball in a medieval castle.If the vampire Lestat were to have a signature fragrance this would be it! It has a nice aura about it but isn't overpowering at all!

Very hard to find over here, due to import nit picking, but worth the hunt. My first impression of No. 88 was that of lemon furniture oil. Not to surprising with the gorgeous aroma of vetiver and bergamot mellowed by sandlewood, rose and geranium. Start saving NOW!!!!