Perfume Directory

Open (1985)
by Roger & Gallet


Open information

Year of Launch1985
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 85 votes)

People and companies

HouseRoger & Gallet
Parent CompanyL'Oréal Group > YSL Beaute
Parent Company at launchElf Aquitaine > Sanofi Beauté

About Open

Open is a masculine fragrance by Roger & Gallet. The scent was launched in 1985

Open fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Open

Open by Roger & Gallet is a pretty wearable fragrance but I'm not going to sales pitch it as a mid 1980's milestone. This feels more like an older cologne of the 1960's era.

This fragrance has a base of lavender combined with a warm and smooth duo of amber and nutmeg. This is a spicy and kind of sweet soap smell that makes me think of Pears Original Soap (the transparent deep orange bar).As the soap mellows I get a blurry green structure of pine and moss or herbs with a sweet but green gummy effect of the amber brushing the greens. I don't get tobacco in this fragrance.

Think Pears Soap meets a strong amount of the design behind the original formula of British Sterling (1965) with an update to 80's powerhouse strength, but smooth. I think Open may have not have been popular because it reflected something familiar in men's fragrances rather than something new for the 80's. It gets a thumbs up for being a good all-around mature scent and nostalgic. If you miss how good British Sterling used to smell...I'd suggest giving Open a try.
27th November, 2019
Roger & Gallet are perhaps best known as the pair who in 1862 bought the Paris perfume factory and business away from Jean-Marie Joseph Farina, great-great grandnephew of Giovanni Maria Farina, inventor of Eau de Cologne. In another lawsuit claiming use of the Farina family name (the first coming from Wilheim Mülhens of 4711 fame), Roger & Gallet successfully walked away with the Jean-Marie Farina name but not the whole shebang, producing his line of colognes henceforth. Fast forward about a century or so and the Roger & Gallet brand remains a French house nearly on the same level of antiquity as Guerlain, but also one that moved forward with modern designs far sooner. R&G (as they're known by fans) entered the 80's male powerhouse segment strongly with L'Homme (1982), being a soapy aromatic fougère like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) but with a more intense herbal kick; the stuff wasn't groundbreaking, but solid nonetheless. Open (1985), by contrast, headed in a new direction with a smoky vetiver opening and tobacco undertones pinned by bergamot, lavender, and patchouli. People versed in vintage masculines compare Open to Jacomo de Jacomo (1980), but I find it more in line with the later Aramis Havana (1993), just with a heavier vetiver overlay and less booze; Open is less Cuba Libre and more Cohiba. Of particular interest is the odd bottle with plastic shoulder and off-center spray cap, making this an easy dumb grab because of how much it stands out in a wardrobe of mostly symmetrical bottles.

Open um... well... er... opens with that smoky vetiver right away but the tobacco in the base doesn't take too long to show thanks to it's synergy with the bergamot top. Amalfi lemon from L'Homme makes a return as well, and lavender keeps it all from being too spiky. Sage, thyme, and a small boozy note make an appearance in the middle, which when combined with the vetiver and tobacco in base, set up the personality of the wear through much of it's duration. Some also cite Francesco Smalto Pour Homme (1987) as a close parable, but that one lacks the tobacco and goes into far soapier and more lavender-forward directions, so I don't see much resemblance. The base is obviously tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver, but it's a pipe tobacco more similar to Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978) than Aramis Havana, with the smoky vetiver making it feel "recently enjoyed" like when you catch whiffs of somebody's pipe in the outside air. Lavender from the top helps keep this clean however, and the aforementioned patchouli coupled with oakmoss round it out to hold on skin, but otherwise they don't get in the way. The whole thing just smells like a bridge between the early 80's and mid 90's in the way it employes the tobacco, with the "smokeroom" aspects of the former mixing with the boozy and fresh aspects of the latter. Open is a fascinating scent to be sure, and there isn't much like it. I'd say this plays well enough as an evening scent due to the smoke but also works in more casual office settings, with plenty of 80's power and longevity to go the day.

I feel the next link in the evolutionary chain is Montana Parfum D'Homme (1989), which adds a ton more oakmoss in favor over the vetiver, removing most of the boozy note until Havana brought it back and sweetened the tobacco. You can almost see how this idea played hopscotch from one house to the next over the years, but among all these scents that I've tried, Roger & Gallet Open seems to have the most perfect balance (sorry Havana, I know you're a fan favorite). Open is just a really interesting "missing link" between early 80's masculine swagger tobacco scents and the brighter, lighter, more leafy tobacco scents to come, which makes sense since it was released smack dab in the middle of 1985. One thing that perplexes me is the meaning of the name "Open", because the scent does not imply wide open spaces or any other kind of outdoorsy vibe. Roger & Gallet doesn't see much distribution in the US, yet this scent floods the market here, and is the only one that kept it's introductory bottle design rather than be swaddled away in a homogeneous "house bottle" design like the others, for what it's worth. Fans of smoky vetiver and tobacco should chomp at the bit for this, especially at the low prices it carries, and is the perfect example of modern style and traditional craftsmanship. I also love how expensive this smells versus how much it actually costs, punching well above it's weight against modern niche scents like Creed Aventus (2010) and Mancera Cedrat Boise (2011). Very well done.
20th July, 2018
Yes, I can see the similarity between Smalto and Jacomo.
Open smells like a cross between the two. I was hesitant at first, but I think I'll keep this one. Very linear and not as "smoky" as Jacomo, but smoky enough for me. I'll use this one liberally and use Jacomo for special occasions. This fragrance works very well in the winter when it is most noticeable. Actually, I love Open by rogeR&Gallet!!!
09th October, 2017 (last edited: 02nd December, 2017)
Stardate 20170916:
Vintage Version:

A nice powerhouse of the past. Herbs, Lavendar, Pine, Patchouli. Soapy too.
A sophisticated fragrance for less than $20. Can't beat that.
There are similarities with Quorum, Polo, Revillon PH and I guess others from that era. But this is its own beast.
development is good, drydown great with patchouli bringing in some soothing balmy effect.
Great for hot humid days.
17th September, 2017
Masculinity in a is classified as a gorgeous,woody fragrance.the fragrance is a truly fine manly and aromatic blend of woods and spices.this smells classic and very nostalgic like a walk in a woody opens very spicy with a huge lavender note following is a heart filled with sage and the base of the fragrance a blend of patchouli,tobacco and vetiver offer warmth and character and makes you feel harsh and virile. Masculine,Wild,Formal,Soapy,Cheap,Elegant,Potent and Herbal.suitable for all self confident men.with monster sillage and superb longevity at super cheap price this is definitely a awesome fragrance but not for everyone.

24th August, 2016
WOW A huge POWDER BOMB just went off lol... this is old school for a mature gentleman looking to wear liquid baby powder. All I get is a bunch of powder and a slight headache. This is not for me in the least.
01st August, 2016

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