Perfume Directory

Or Black (1982)
by Pascal Morabito

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Or Black information

Year of Launch1982
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 121 votes)

People and companies

HousePascal Morabito
PerfumerJean-Louis Sieuzac

About Or Black

A leather chypre fragrance with notes of pepper, leather, vetiver and amber.

This was once discontinued but is now available once again.

The company say:

In his reference book Perfumes : The Guide, Luca Turin gives it the 5 stars optimal grade, “Or Black is an extreme fougère, smoky, dark, bitter, resinous-green, like triple-distilled Earl Grey, a step beyond even Rive Gauche pour Homme in its saturnine glory. Sensational”. In order to constitute the Parfum Couple with its predecessor Or Noir, Or Black was created in 1981. The new version is a subtle mix of ephemeral bergamot and pepper’s hints to which is added precious woody aromatics heart’s notes. Or Black suits self-confident and well-grounded man who makes the most of the male and sensual character of the perfume as well as its animalized notes. Or Black can be enhanced by the skin of a woman.

Or Black fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Or Black

I came, I read, I blind-bought. After much testing, I have to say - I don't really get it.

You can forgive the burnt rubber / plasticine accord if it settles down to something more recognisably perfumey. On my skin, though, Or Black never goes through those gears. It's a little like spending a night in the woods without proper camping equipment. This is savage stuff. On paper, it dries down to something quite nice in the space of about three days, but that's not really a prospect for skin use.

It's been educational, though. I've figured out that personally, the idea is to smell good, or at least feel as though I smell good. Edginess can come later. Rive Gauche carries me as far in this direction as I need.

Other notes: available direct from France with a very affordable price tag. I like the colour of the juice - deep herbal green - but I find the bottle poor, with a loose cap.
16th August, 2017 (last edited: 21st August, 2017)
Another fan. The earlier reference to Kolnisch Juchten rings true. I also sense a lot of overlap with the sour green petrol bits in Dior's Fahrenheit. Good longevity.
09th July, 2017
I find it hard to review this fragrance. Beneath the surface it's a master fragrance.
You can tell it is an 80s fragrance but the oakmoss here seems to be wrapped in a suede pouch with some cooling mint effect in the opening.
It feels like a smoother version of Dunhill Blend 30 with some elements of vintage Bois du Portugal.
You smoke a cigarette wearing Dunhill Blend 30 and you'll get in Or Black territory.
Very interesting but not my style.

31st March, 2017
I've worn this four times now, from what I believe was a vintage sample. I've been getting consistently fair results, except during the third wearing when it bloomed and became especially nice. This reminds me a little of Frederic Malle Dan Tes Bras.
04th March, 2017
Stardate 20161223:

A nice herbal, smoky masculine fragrance. It has spices and a certain soapiness to it.
There is a soap - Cinthol, that was perhaps the first "Made for Real Men" soap in India. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSqaoQBgacY.

Cinthol has borrowed heavily from Or Black.

recommended in any form/vintage

23rd December, 2016
I've been taking notes on this for the better part of a decade. It's my most worn fragrance (by far) over the same period of time...yet, I still find myself unable to produce words that I think do it justice.

All I can do is express my appreciation for such a unique and complex fragrance that suits my personal preferences so exactly. I appreciate both the vintage and re-launch almost equally and find the differences near negligible, the newer having a slightly peppery facet.

Like previous reviewers have already stated, it's hard to pin down genre-wise and I've given up trying, opting instead to just enjoy it's utterly refined presence on my skin.

It's a leather, it's a chypre, it's kind of a fougère, it's herbal, it's animalic, it's just outstanding and unmatched in my eyes.
20th June, 2016

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