Or Black (1982)
    by Pascal Morabito

    Or Black Fragrance Notes

    Or Black information

    A leather chypre fragrance with notes of pepper, leather, vetiver and amber.
    This was once discontinued but is now available in a very expensive limited edition and numbered silver-plated bottle.

    Reviews of Or Black

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    Showing 1 to 6 of 21 reviews.

    Darvant's avatar
    Italy Italy

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    While you deal with Pascal Morabito Or Black as a quality perfumes addict it can happen that the easiest thing to be involved in is the sliding in to pyrotechnical swirls of the rhetorical emphasis since this gorgeous parisian leather-chypre is still probably the finest leather founded concoction ever created. Tall, dark, commanding and saturnine this fragrance astonishes us due its ability to go beyond its obscure aura in order to stand at once out as a surprisingly daring, active, dynamic and contemporary type of olfactory character. Two souls in an unique chameleon fragrance, Jazz Club e La Sorbonne, Opera and urban Funky Beat. Tradition and modernity (expecially in the new excellent reformulated 2014 version) miraculously merge in order to issue a new millennium olfactory refinement of unparalleled craftsmanship. Don't be fooled by the "complicated" opening guys since Or Black turns finally out in the most subtle and fine sort of "triple-distilled highlands scotch" you can dare to wear on a leathery coach (enjoying a smooth jazz melody) and beyond. This leather is velvety and suave, ideally arousing the atmosphere of cozy leathery ambiences full of flavoured smoke, fine leather wrapped fornitures, extra old liqueurs and seasoned woods. The beginning of this self confident aroma is utterly compelling since your nose is invested by a cloud of pepper, decadent bergamot and aromatic herbs, by soon followed by an heady almost gasolinic rubbery fist rolling powerful and spicy along the top and a part of the central stage. The green aromatic, rubbery and hesperidic elements, almost boisterous for a while at the beginning, end to be wonderfully absorbed by a general musky/leathery final subtleness in a renewed olfactory entity rich of suave nuances of fine leather, furs, boots polish, resins, balsams, smooth rubber and seasoned woods. The green and initially angular elements leaves the way to a finally soft breezy cool wave over the smoothest type of leather while the initial complicacy, the welcoming strong rubbery leather, leaves gradually the stage to an ambery/benzoinic (almost balmy) bed of suede, old malt and musk. Friends please be patient, wait the end, be worthy about the real comfort and the magic will appear. For hours and hours you will feel yourself encompassed by a general sense of velvety coziness, organic warmth, silky old leather, rosey/musky breeze and unmentionable licentious "backstages". A fragrance for the warriors of voluptuary indolence, for prophets of the sin. Or Black, in its holy olfactory balance and the classiest landmark refinement, does not cage anyway its substance in the stuck mists of the conservative formalism managing on the contrary to exude an indescribable sense of sin, lived life, cultured debauchery, a sense of "The Great Beauty" you are looking for lost motion and bourgeois decadent indolence. In all of it abides its extraordinary modernity. Probably the best around.

    P.S: The new 2014 version is excellent, it is not properly a new fragrance as we read on Fragrantica (in my humble opinion) but a revisiting still faithful to the original formula, probably slightly muskier, brighter, more soapy/ambery and approachable in the first stages, still holy perfection in the dry down (a concert of misty velvet, malt, moss and suede).

    31st March, 2014 (Last Edited: 07 April, 2014)

    iivanita's avatar
    Croatia Croatia

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    The heart is a little soapy, dry, like a grey cashmere blanket just above your skin, it has noticeable yet gentle aura, to me it has the effect of a sandalwood note, its there but not screaming,
    And prototype of classic masculine scent that appeals to every man today. It is rounded, has no sharpness, yet is bitter, its transparent as well, dark grey colour but no thickness. Only for men!
    Smells like fougere leather to me, much less smokiness then knize ten, and much more transparency, no animalic s

    22 April, 2013

    rbaker's avatar

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    Leather I get from beginning to end, with a green touch and in the drydown a nice amber and gentle musk. I live the great quality of the ingredients and the wonderful blending. On my skin -and I realise that I might be the exception to the rule - this is a light leather scent, and even after multiple application it is less heavy and less dark than other leathers and always remains close to my skin. Longevity about three hours.

    09 December, 2012

    My_pep_pep's avatar
    United States United States

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    I like this a lot, it's dark of course, and goes through some phases. At first I smell anise and powder with leathery notes and then the leather comes out more strongly, with also something rubbery like others mentioned. Then that fades too and it becomes more of a sultry, quiet scent, kind of incense-y. Overall it's very serious and kind of brooding, no sweetness at all, and a little on the quiet side. Is it really a chypre? Smells more of a fougere, if you ask me. But I have been known to confuse that issue.

    It's like a distant relative of Drakkar Noir, quieter and more serious, less flashy, more handsome.

    21st May, 2012

    alfarom's avatar
    Italy Italy

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    Possibly one of the darkest compositions I've ever experienced. A dense chyprey leather which is almost impossible to describe due to its multi-faceted nature. Smoky, leathery, mossy, incensey (resinous), herbal, old fashioned, modern, bitter, aromatic..OMG there's really a lot going on here.

    I do apologize if I can't go through notes explaination but Or Black makes me feel positively "uneasy" and prefer to simply recommend it as the perfect example of a "fragrance for people who actually like fragrances" as diametrically opposed to the Turin's concept of "a fragrance for people who don't like fragrances".

    On of the most assertive compositions ever. A masterpiece and a staple in my personal wardrobe.

    14 October, 2011 (Last Edited: 04 March, 2012)

    John.G's avatar
    Australia Australia

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    I've always avoided writing a review of Or Black. I feel that to write a review one should try to maintain some objectivity. And its been a defualt setting in my wardrobe for so long that I can't even pretend to be objective.

    Don't know what to wear... Or Black.
    Formal without being stuffy.... Or Black.
    Alone on a chill winters night and wanting to feel held.... Or Black
    Comfort scent.... Or Black.

    And its a chameleon. Sometimes I get some notes... sometimes others. Different moods and different weathers bring out multiple facets to me.

    Autumn and winter I normally get the leather. Specifically its the smell of new suede. Spring and summer I get the worlds driest rose - imagine a solitary red rose valiantly growing against the backdrop of a Sergio Leone western.

    And always that smooth musk and tonka and laubdanum in the far drydown. 24 hours later I still smell it when the hot water of a shower opens my pores. And fall in love with it once again.

    Perfume as an art form is about emotion, not objectivity.
    Perhaps it wouldnt hang in the Louvre. But this is what would hang above my bed.

    11th September, 2011

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