Palais Jamais (1989)
by Etro

Another Etro that being a component of this wonderful brand is a bit poetic, indolent, aristocratic, evocative, nostalgic and Victorian. Those are the qualities of fragrances as Vicolo dei Fiori and Patchouly, Shaal Nur and Royal Pavillon, Eliotrope and Sandalo. This one is a silent aromatic leathery scent of the morning. The opening is citrusy and floral with a starring tangerine, some aromatic greens and notable violet and jasmine than the fragrance becomes mossy and characterized by a sheer note of tobacco and the final boise' touch of vetiver. The combination of tobacco, moss, vetiver, musk and leather (also civet is listed) turns it very intimate and corporeal but not in an aggressive way. Apart from the usual dustiness of Etro (cardamom), the woodsy and tobacco  dry down is not aggressive o powerful but smoothed by a leathery note similar to suede. The note of tobacco is dominant but is cleverly combined with greens and citrus in the way the smell turns out light, fresh and a bit indolent. The smell is multifaceted, bitter-sweet, grassy-floral and very natural as a deep breath of cool air in the middle of the country early at morning. Coming from far shelters and angles, sheds and farm houses you can inhale the smell of fire and flowers, wood and moss, roasted meat and plants. I agree with Shamu1, this is a pleasant fragrance but is basically tranquil, evocative and nostalgic. It's dry and discreet and has nothing of muscular. Another great work from Etro Milano, grazie di esistere.

24th October, 2011. (Last Edited: 22nd November, 2011.)

Unless there's something wrong with my bottle of Palais Jamais, which I doubt, I don't find this to be a bold or testosterone-fueled fragrance at all. This is a tea and sage scent, and it is very tranquil. There's a tiny bit of a light smoke and vetiver scent creeping in, but this is about as low key as a fragrance can get. I detect no birch tar or leather whatsoever. The tea and sage are by far the most prominent notes here, and they give PJ a linear, low-boil feel.

Don't take my comments as a criticism, because this is a good scent. Not every fragrance has to be a raging powerhouse. This is a somewhat melancholy scent, but not depressing. It just smells cool and mellow, and wearing it will make you feel cool and mellow, almost like aromatherapy. It also happens to be the driest fragrance I've ever smelled. I can just feel the moisture being sucked out my skin when I smell this. Yatagan smells like a chocolate-covered donut by comparison.

This is a very unique scent, and is well constructed. It is not particularly masculine or feminine, but rather almost androgynous. As a guy, I can say that fans of discreet classics like Equipage or Monsieur de Givenchy will probably like this a lot. It exudes quiet elegance quite well, and you won't smell like anyone else around you.

MY RATING: 8/10

17th February, 2011.

A comfortable woody scent with citrus and jasmine notes in the top and tobacco/leather notes in the heart. Oakmoss and vetiver are in the base note. The leather note in the base is slightly smoky, a definite birch tar note. This is not the kind of aromatic woody that inspires sweet thoughts; it is more masculine and rough, emphasizing the smokiness of the leather and the bitter vibe of the oakmoss. Good sillage for the first hour or two, with average longevity. A refreshing change from the run-of-the-mill scents one smells on many young men today.

26th March, 2010.

If you like Yatagan or Parfum d'Habit, try Palais Jamais. It's of the same testosterone-drenched wood and leather clan, though it does manage to walk its own path.

While Yatagan and Parfum d'Habit lean on conifer notes and vetiver respectively, Palais Jamais surrounds its leather with a veil of tobacco smoke. The other two are very much rugged, outdoor scents, not too far removed from the forest. Palais Jamais is more urbane: a shot of whiskey and a Cuban cigar enjoyed in a leather chair. Except for its brief, citrus sweetened opening salvo, this is a dry, and I mean bone-dry scent. Even the green notes at the heart are crisp and desiccated.

Interestingly for something so aggressively masculine, my wife smelled it on me and pronounced emphatically that it was NOT sexy. Too much of the stuffy men's club, as opposed to the caveman vibe? Insufficient animalic warmth in the base notes? Beats me.

13rd December, 2009.

This is a vivid, sparkling fragrance. Although it doesn't change dramatically towards the drydown, it simply changes its face every time I try to pay deeper attention to it. "Rubber leaves", or "rubber soft floral" - is there such thing? I mean not a combination of rubber and florals, but something that smells like a single note. In fact that's what's great here: it always smells very homogeneous. I can also notice citrus and vetiver but again, they're not "natural" or "real" - more like surreal, rubberized, more classy than nature can ever be. Earl Grey tea seems the most natural reference. But once I notice it, and it turns to some expensive lemon detergent, then into a incense stick before being burned. A playful fragrance.
I tried Palais Jamais in the summer but then some sour notes made it too heavy on my skin. I wear it now in the mild winter and it cheers up the air around me without ever settling to a tranquil state. It's light and dark at the same time and while in hot weather the dark notes seem somehow unbalanced and the green/citrusy notes can seem banal, cooler temperatures reveal its true paradoxical nature. Perfect.

2nd December, 2009. (Last Edited: 3rd February, 2010.)

Fragrance notes mentioned on Etro card: yerba mate, sambac jasmine flowers, bergamot, cardamom, Arabic coffee
I mention these notes since they differ from the pyramid notes offered by PigeonMurderer. I’m not disputing those pyramid notes, in fact I am sure they are there (especially the civet). It is interesting to see the difference between the two lists.
This has a nice aromatic green bergamot opening with jasmine floral notes. The scent is dusky but attractive. Then the “rubber” phase hits, grassy notes from the yerba mate. This is unusual but not unpleasant. Piercing whiffs of violet circle in the background. Then, a slightly sweet and skin- or leather-like note from the civet appears. This component adds a heady, old-school, perfumed character to the dry-down. The civet goes on and on, it is a longevity monster… and ultimately (IMO) gets a bit tiresome. This is not to my taste, though some may appreciate it.

18th August, 2009.