I like this a lot. At first whiff it reminds me of Gruene's Vintage for Men, Pierre Cardin Musk, and Revillon's The French Line, but its fresh, green coniferous opening fades more quickly and becomes more subdued than any of those three. There are a lot of notes that seem to rise and fall over the life of the scent, and so well blended that even when individual notes appear, they remain as part of the whole as well. It's a leathery chypre with a prominent forest-y quality --- a genre that appears to have fallen from grace, since Pancaldi is the only one of the four still in production, and even it is hard to find.
A bit of internet research came up with the following list of notes, which seem very plausible to me:
Top: Bergamot, verbena, lavender, lemon, wormwood, basil, juniper berry, neroli, thyme
Middle: Cinnamon, carnation, clove, clary sage, fern, fir, geranium, jasmine, rose, pimento berry
Base: Benzoin, castoreum, cedar, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver
Hanorah Pancaldi is very much a muffin-top fragrance. An almost indescribably luscious juniper soaked herbal opening and early middle notes are followed by a generic and perhaps even banal base. Given the sheer joy that the fragrance produces for about half an hour or so, the question is whether it compensates for the subsequent banality. The answer is probably not. It is scarce, expensive, and fatally flawed – not a promising combination.
I find it very hard to tease out the individual notes in Pancaldi. The top notes are a mixture of herbal and coniferous qualities, but with a certain freshness, almost like fresh ginger, rather than a typically "bright" citrus top. The drydown is deep and green, a layer of moss giving it a velvety quality.
In terms of sillage, it starts strong but soon goes soft. However, the longevity is more than adequate.
Pancaldi is like peering through a castle window into a dark, moonlit forest outside; an intriguing mixture of a abstract and evocative. Definitely a classic that's sadly drifted towards obscurity.
Overall, this is a nice scent. I’m not a fan of patchouli, but although it is present here I think it is used with restraint.
This starts with a beautiful citrus-green note. It quickly morphs into a slightly soapy and spicy chord. Cloves are the dominant spice, giving this an old-school barbershop character. Dusky green notes lurk at the edges. Moss and leathery notes start to appear. The patchouli hints at salt, leather, and tangy leaves. The dry-down is an aromatic, slightly acidic blend of patchouli and herbals.
I’m slightly more than neutral on this. I think it is well-made and classy in its late 80’s way. So the thumb points up – although I don’t think I’d seek it out for myself.
Green oakmoss and florals. Leathery wood later on. Very interesting.