Perfume Directory

Pasha (1992)
by Cartier

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Pasha information

Year of Launch1992
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 282 votes)

People and companies

HouseCartier
PackagingAlessandro Legovini

About Pasha

Pasha de Cartier is a lasting fresh aromatic fragrance. Pasha contains notes of mint, lavender and sandalwood.

Pasha fragrance notes

Reviews of Pasha

There was a good, albeit short-lived trend among the "Beige Wave" of the 90's, and it was the fruit and spice semi-oriental fougère, and a direction meant to uplift that last blast of dandy-like fougères clinging to the tail end of the powerhouse era from their own impending oblivion. I'd say this artistic offshoot only delayed the inevitable for the classic fougère genre as a whole, since synthetic abstraction was the future and classic genres like fougères and chypres would eventually be impossible to make under IFRA regulations once the synthetics became widely-accepted substitutes. Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent (1988) arguably kicked off this last gasp, even if the independent R&D behind it cost them so dearly it eventually drove YSL into receivership by LVMH, and it would appear Cartier would be the ones truly benefitting from the effort, since Pasha de Cartier takes the theme to the next level, and is perhaps the briefly-lived genre's finest example. Fragrances like Pasha de Cartier (1992) were the perfect answer to guys who found aquatics like Cool Water (1988) too seasonal and "fresh" fougères like Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (1989) too thin, but also didn't want to slide back into the heavy-handed animalic/patchouli/oakmoss or musk/leather/woods bases which dominated the 80's and 70's respectively. Public opinion was rapidly changing on what smelled masculine, but scents like Pasha de Cartier represented a good compromise between the aromatics of the old school and the sweet apologetic vibes of the new, so as a neat little "bridge" between generations at the time, it was fantastic. It seemed even Yves Saint Laurent realized they had been outclassed by Cartier, as they released a revised version of Jazz called Jazz Prestige (1993) the following year which traced the footsteps of Pasha in an attempt to trump it, and although it is stronger, I don't necessarily find it better, but more on that further down.

Pasha de Cartier opens much like Yves Saint Laurent Jazz, as if perfumer Jacques Cavalier really dug what Jean-François Latty had done for the other house but felt it was incomplete, needing "jazzing up" further with mint and mandarin orange accompanying the lavender and artemisia of Jazz's opening. The result of these additional fruity and fresh notes makes for a bouncy, energetic, and personable zip which YSL would try to 1-up by taking the fruit further in Jazz Prestige, swapping out orange for a louder apple note, but here the sweetness stays inbetween the two Jazz compositions sitting "just right" like Goldilocks and her porridge bowl. From this fruity opening we're lead into a caraway and anise note, making Pasha feel like a fruity take on the opening of classic Azzaro Pour Homme (1978). Coriander and rosewood add an aromatic spice to the heart, and supposedly there is an Aurinia/Golden Alyysum note here; I've never smelled that so I can't speak to it, but I do know a faux apple and spice note does creep in, drawing another bridge to the later Jazz Prestige. The base for something like this is pretty obvious, being cistus labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss, coumarin, and sandalwood, with the latter being particularly creamy here, denoting it's likely the composite favored in compositions like Chanel Égoïste (1990). Pasha de Cartier seems like a fougère kissing cousin to the latter Platinum Égoïste (1993) in it's dry down, another link in this brief chain of semi-oriental fougères. Sillage is moderate and longevity is left wanting although acceptable, so a work day in this might need reapplication at about the 6 hour mark for sustain, but most scents in this small genre aren't beasts anyway.

I feel this whole shindig was likely killed off due to the release of Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger (1994), which took the fruity top and married it to a zesty semi-ozonic "fresh" fougère composition that felt like a pairing down of Aramis Havana (1994) made more youth-friendly and demographic-driven, and once sales figures made that the new standard, nobody continued down this sandalwood-heavy path anymore. I really enjoy Pasha de Cartier and it's one of my favorite examples of fruit, spice, and oriental tones playing with a fougère accord, wearable anywhere, anytime, just not in summer. As for YSL Jazz Prestige, it riffs very heavily on Pasha de Cartier but turns up the fruit, plus delivers it's trail at "Concentrée" strength, but Pasha de Cartier is the more-balanced and artistically-superior composition, even if the praise and veneration unfairly get handed to Jazz Prestige for being rare and discontinued, which in vintage hound's logic always means better. I'd reach for Pasha de Cartier 5 to 1 over any entry in the Jazz series, even if quantity and price of replenishment weren't an issue, but the popularity of the scent making it possible to buy Pasha de Cartier at any department store or any online perfume shop for a fraction of the YSL price sure helps. A billion limited flankers would also result from the success of Pasha de Cartier, but many of them are really unrelated creations sharing a bottle shape, so approach them on an individual basis. Definitely thumbs way up here, and a must-smell potential daily signature for anyone interested in the best of what the otherwise-tepid 90's had to offer! Cartier as a house rarely seems to falter anyway.
02nd October, 2018 (last edited: 03rd October, 2018)
I've no idea what Vintage I'm nosing here, however it is similar to Jazz Prestige. This tops with a little Mint and adds a whisper of Cumin to which I find attractive.
As Epapsiou says, No Brainer.
16th September, 2018
A well-blended, straightforward, classical fougere. Rivals YSL Jazz and, more recently, Sartorial.

Better than the latter, to my nose, and cheaper and more consistently available than the former (by far) — recommended for fans of the style and glad that I finally got around to understanding this juice. Longevity could be better, but it's cheap enough to decant and reapply.
27th August, 2018
I agree that this is somewhat similar to Tsar. Comparing side-by-side, I prefer Pasha. It's warmer and woodier. Tsar seems stronger/louder and sharper/screechier. YSL fragrances such as Jazz and/or Jazz Prestige also came to mind, but I don't have them handy to compare.

This is a marginal thumbs up. I'll give it more chances, and I like it, but it's not really grabbing me. Whereas with Santos I'm on the fence about whether I should be getting a bottle, with Pasha I'm on the fence between neutral and thumbs up.
19th July, 2018 (last edited: 31st July, 2018)
TeeEm Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A very pleasant smell... perhaps a tiny dated.
A bought it very recently to try as it was relatively cheap
Longevity and projection is low to average for me (I bought from a warehouse so I wonder if it was a fake(?) or old stock)
5/10
06th January, 2018
This stuff smells like a hairy man driving on a hot day in a convertible after eating spicy middle-eastern food. It does it's own thing very well, but I'm not sure when I'd want to smell like that.
15th December, 2017

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PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY 100 ML/ 3.3 FL.OZ TESTER

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