Patchouly (1989)
by Etro

Patchouli comes as a very welcome bump in the long road of Etro disappointments. The unsentimental nature of the whole experience is a real pleasure - it merely exists as a woody, dry and comforting treatment which performs particularly well when projected against a canvas of cooler weather. It's quite moorish, and gets close to recreating the slightly deviant relationship that I have with freshly creosoted fences. The patchouli is allowed to simply play off against a number of ingredients, most of which add a a little twist to the whole experience. It's an object lesson in simplicity and efficacy.

10th November, 2011.

Gorgeous patchouli scent with enough weight to keep you interested for ages.

Big thumbs up...!

19th March, 2011.

This is a crisp and severe patchouli, surely exotic and earthy but not sumptuous and syrupy. Some elements whirl around patchouli in order to stress its earthy, dirty soul. Tobacco, hesperides, spices and dry woods enhance its temperament infusing to it a severe though soft aura. The sweetness is subdued and tamed in comparison with other mellow, based on patchouli concoctions. The outcome is a refined, soft patchouli, resinous but not rich and mellow, what thing we could have crosschecked in the case a support of amber dominant would have been present. Vanilla and amber are listed in the dry down but the element that masters the juice is the role of incense, mint and camphoraceous wood in order to enhance the dusty and aromatic main trait of the fragrance. Accents of flowers as rose and geranium in the woody middle part impress a touch of elegance and soft ethereal sweetness to the creation after a citric-green opening. Very good is the longevity.

7th February, 2011. (Last Edited: 15th March, 2011.)

This scent made me think that patchouli is a brown, dry, 1000-years old leaf. They extracted the essence of it and then left it for another 100 years in an old wooden chest. They were very careful not to mix it with other things - sweet, fresh, light, or anything that could ruin its singularity, a dry pile of leaves in a wooden chest.
I would never wear this with a t-shirt.

13rd July, 2010.

Etro makes a very clear, crisp patchouli with less amber on board than, say, Montale’s Patchouli Leaves or Mazzolari Patchouly. The result is a lighter and less powdery accord that emphasizes patchouli’s herbaceous character rather than its earthy, musty qualities. Carefully blended fruit notes, fresh tobacco leaves, and floral accents leave Etro Patchouly smelling lush and exotic where others can be dark and heavy. It’s by no means a light scent, but in the context of patchouli fragrances it’s remarkably buoyant. I find most patchouli-heavy scents oppressive in hot weather, but this is one that I would gladly wear in summertime.

Don’t assume from my comments that Etro’s is a watered down patchouli – it’s not. Ironically though, I think its incisive treatment of the note might make it more appealing to those who find other patchouli scents too heavy, cloying, or “dirty.” Etro Patchouly is a best of breed contender, right along with Mazzolari’s, Montale’s, and Parfumerie Generale’s Intrigant Patchouli.

10th December, 2009.

Interesting interpretation of a classic oriental scent component from Etro. For the one’s who dislike patchouli, this is a good reason to change their minds. For the fans, maybe a way to find out more about its multidimensional character. Unlike other patchouli scents this one is soft, refined and quite light. After a brief hesperidic opening you discover an earthy, dirty and mysterious heart with the note of semi dried tobacco leaves being more underlined which along with subtle spices and woods create a beautiful yet unusual leather accord. While sweetness is kept at minimum the woody character is more projected especially at the base. Sensual but not complex, oriental but not so rich, an overall well balanced choice for all year round.

27th October, 2009.