Patchouly (1989)
by Etro

Interesting interpretation of a classic oriental scent component from Etro. For the one’s who dislike patchouli, this is a good reason to change their minds. For the fans, maybe a way to find out more about its multidimensional character. Unlike other patchouli scents this one is soft, refined and quite light. After a brief hesperidic opening you discover an earthy, dirty and mysterious heart with the note of semi dried tobacco leaves being more underlined which along with subtle spices and woods create a beautiful yet unusual leather accord. While sweetness is kept at minimum the woody character is more projected especially at the base. Sensual but not complex, oriental but not so rich, an overall well balanced choice for all year round.

Amazing patchouli scent. Absolutely delicious.

First thing to my mind is that this really reminds me of how important role patchouli plays in Black Aoud (Montale). For the one it shall be impossible to deny that this smells quite much like Black Aoud without the actual oud, naturally….

Earthy and very salty. Warm, luminous patchouli against oiled roses and aged balsams.


Yummy!

Etro makes a very clear, crisp patchouli that’s less influenced by amber than, say, Montale’s Patchouli Leaves or Mazzolari’s Patchouli. The result is a lighter and less powdery accord that emphasizes patchouli’s herbaceous character rather than its earthy, musty qualities. Carefully blended fruit notes, fresh tobacco leaves, and floral accents leave Etro Patchouly smelling lush and exotic where others can be dark and heavy. It’s by no means a light scent, but it’s remarkably buoyant and in the context of patchouli fragrances. I find most patchouli-heavy scents oppressive in hot weather, but this is one that I would gladly wear in summertime.

Don’t assume from my comments that Etro’s is a watered down patchouli – it’s not. Ironically though, I think its incisive treatment of the note might make it more appealing to those who find other patchouli scents too heavy, cloying, or “dirty.” Etro Patchouly is a best of breed contender, right along with Mazzolari, Montale, and Parfumerie Generale’s Intrigant Patchouli.

A dark and brooding patchouli, containing little lightness or prettiness—its deep tenor is alleviated only by a bit of conifer and the thinnest touch of sweetness. As others have noted, this is not a hippy patchouli — it isn’t earthy enough for that, nor is there any of that lightness of being that is implicit in patchouli essential oil. Etro Patchouly is too resinous to be pure patchouli. Like the other patchouli heavyweights from L’Artisan, Lutens, and Montale, Patchouly is quite linear. And Etro, again like the others, contains loads of intrigue, but for me the depth and darkness of a patchouli accord just isn’t enough to do it. I admire these fragrances, but not enough to buy them. I guess these intense patchoulis can’t hold my interest for the entire run. Still this is a beautiful fragrance that certainly deserves thumbs up.

Very nice, for a patchouli... Not one of the notes that I would go out of my way to sniff, but usually forgivable (if not forgettable). Etro's take on the patch is a good one, though. In the bottle, it's "hippie gone wild"-- but on the skin, it mellows nicely into a woody, clean, relatively tame (yet still sexy) patchoo. It reminds me of the plant more than the incense.

A lovely patchouli, but I wish Etro made it in an edp (or at least edt) strength. (Some longevity issues on my skin -- go figure.) It goes on rather boozy on me at first, then dries down to a spicy middle. The rest of the dry-down is all vanilla and patchouli. It's very similar to L'Artisan's Patchouli Patch, only with far less sweetness and more patchouli itself. I'm with Naed_Nitram in that I probably prefer plain ol' patchouli oil all around.