Thanks to a long time BNr, I'm fortunate to have a decant of special PPH. I sense clary sage / oakmoss with cinnamon / patchouli / amber blended to what any self-respecting gent would or should want to smell of. I swear one of my kid's pediatricians used to smell of PPH way back when, like a million bucks in a crisp clean labcoat and worthy of the memory space, evidently.
An end-all-be-all? Perhaps for some... BUT, along with a few others like Bel Ami, Derby, Jules, Arrogance Uomo, Monogram, Or Black, Blend 30 and so on from yesteryear, definitely deserving the mention.
Masterpiece? Well hell ya! Like my Grail the Bel Ami (produced 5 years later) this is like a grand piece of billowing symphonic bliss. Smooth almost seamless blend of endless, quality instruments. One foot solidly in the past of gentleman's conservative, the other gingerly touching the surface of the "New Wave" of piercing Tide cleanliness that is Oscar Renta Pour Lui.
To my mind, that is what a scent Masterpiece is. Something that bridges Past and Future.
Patou has that. It's called Presence.
This is a mere footnote to add a remark exclusively about the vintage aftershave spray.
Vintage Patou Pour Homme EDT is a masterpiece and I love it to distraction. But, let's face it, it is not exactly going to come off as brighter than a bag of buttons and merrier than a gallery of grigs. As even its many fans here acknowledge, it is very rich and can appear overstuffed -- a symptom that perhaps is amplified by its now extended bottle age.
The PPH aftershave is a déglacé version that should not be disregarded (as I admittedly do with all other aftershaves without exception). I use the aftershave as I would an EDT and like the way it wears. It can be more versatile and, interestingly, can offer a different and sometimes clearer perspective on what makes this great formula tick. The note separation seems greater and the mysore has a bit more breathing space. In terms of projection and staying power, it doesn't need to break a sweat to compete with your better quality modern EDTs. Since, unlike the EDT, it is not as rare as a rhinoceros horn at an Asian bazaar, one can apply liberally. In fact, price and availability are remarkably good, considering. Mignon for the minions.
Neutral rating as I find "so many" other 80's fragrances way superior to this overrated, 80's release.
When people nowadays used to the new releases smell the highly rated PPH, they think it's macho, hairy chest & what not - pity that newb's are all so used to acquas / calones / iso e super / mild woody amber loaded fragrances. PPH is not macho - it's very "regular" compared to the real macho scents like say Jules / Salvador Dali PH / Quorum / Paco Rabanne PH etc...
As for the notes & development - again, many other 80's fragrances are more complex, particularly many from Laporte's MPeG - PPH doesn't achieve 5 stars even here.
I would categorize this as a 3 star, office safe release of the 80's...Tobacco, while not listed, I think is the star from start to mid phase, before the leather oakmoss takes over the base - overall, an excellent fragrance, but is it the best - NO WAY. It is definitely way over-rated imho...Hence the neutral rating.
If the vtg was available for around $3 / ml (which is in itself a very high price, as u can get so many other vtg's for half that cost), I would buy another bottle - but i already paid almost Euro 5 per ml for a legit 60ml bottle of PPH (& another 120 odd for a legit PPH after shave).
Final point - save your $ & spend elsewhere, than on this overrated, super over-prices, but well made fragrance. I for one, cannot consider this as a pillar among fragrances...
The hot pepper note is there, and it's over a beautifully elegant, complex oak moss base. This has the finishing touches I was not getting from Azzaro Pour Homme.
Patou Pour Homme was love at first sniff for me.
The hot pepper in this (or equivalent) makes my forehead sweat in the same way as eating hot peppers or other spicy hot foods; think extra hot Thai cuisine. It's borderline too hot for me; I usually go for medium.
05th January, 2016 (last edited: 06th January, 2016)