Neutral rating as I find "so many" other 80's fragrances way superior to this overrated, 80's release.
When people nowadays used to the new releases smell the highly rated PPH, they think it's macho, hairy chest & what not - pity that newb's are all so used to acquas / calones / iso e super / mild woody amber loaded fragrances. PPH is not macho - it's very "regular" compared to the real macho scents like say Jules / Salvador Dali PH / Quorum / Paco Rabanne PH etc...
As for the notes & development - again, many other 80's fragrances are more complex, particularly many from Laporte's MPeG - PPH doesn't achieve 5 stars even here.
I would categorize this as a 3 star, office safe release of the 80's...Tobacco, while not listed, I think is the star from start to mid phase, before the leather oakmoss takes over the base - overall, an excellent fragrance, but is it the best - NO WAY. It is definitely way over-rated imho...Hence the neutral rating.
If the vtg was available for around $3 / ml (which is in itself a very high price, as u can get so many other vtg's for half that cost), I would buy another bottle - but i already paid almost Euro 5 per ml for a legit 60ml bottle of PPH (& another 120 odd for a legit PPH after shave).
Final point - save your $ & spend elsewhere, than on this overrated, super over-prices, but well made fragrance. I for one, cannot consider this as a pillar among fragrances...
The hot pepper note is there, and it's over a beautifully elegant, complex oak moss base. This has the finishing touches I was not getting from Azzaro Pour Homme.
Patou Pour Homme was love at first sniff for me.
The hot pepper in this (or equivalent) makes my forehead sweat in the same way as eating hot peppers or other spicy hot foods; think extra hot Thai cuisine. It's borderline too hot for me; I usually go for medium.
05th January, 2016 (last edited: 06th January, 2016)
After Patou pour Homme was discontinued, I had to find a replacement. After months of searching, I found one that matched PPH nearly identically. What was that fragrance you ask? It was.......THE DREAMER by Versace!!! It is an absolutely wonderful replacement for Patou pour Homme, which I loved dearly and which I was sad to see be discontinued. THE DREAMER, to me anyway, smells almost identical to PPH. I am VERY happy I found a worthy replacement. Now, let's hope that Versace doesn't discontinue THE DREAMER!!!
When fragrances reach legendary levels, it's always hard to properly assest their actual value and, Patou Pour Homme ha surely gained a place in the olympus of masculine fragrances together with the likes of Knize 10, Derby, Aramis, Yatagan, Kouros and several other classics…
It surely belongs to the hyper-masculine category but, whereas most of the fragrances in this genre go all *unbuttoned-shirt* and *hairy-chest*, Patou Pour Homme feels way more formal and agrees with a perfectly shaved man wearing Borsalino / Stetson hats, cigar / cigarette smoke, a girl with a tad too much make up and a super-rack and an overall noir atmosphere.
This is basically a woody fragrance with leathery undertones and a massive mossy base. Aromatic facets are provided by tarragon and lavender while restrained masculine florals (mainly geranium) enhance it's old-school vibe. It's dry and rich, severe but luxurious, animalic but civilized. Personally, I find it shares more than a single aspect with Derby but also (to a lesser extent) with vintage Equipage and some Aramis while still feeling perfectly unique. Now, I can't say I've really fallen in love with PPH like others did (probably because I'm way too far removed from the kind of guy it evokes) but I'm so glad to have it in my wardrobe and I'm surely one of its supporters.
So, in the end, probably not my personal holy grail but definitely a masterpiece.
Genre: Woody Oriental
So here it is: the legendary Patou pour Homme.
Once you get the tricky lid open, Patou launches as a very strong, very odd blend of green notes, bitter citrus, hot pepper, and tarragon, which together form an accord not unlike a smoky Speyside single malt whisky. I like single malt whiskies.
The tarragon bows out rather quickly, or at least moves well into the background, while a bouquet of dry herbs and lavender moves forward in its place. This is supported by a subtle sandalwood note and a touch of conifer resin. The whisky grows darker and more smoky, transforming almost imperceptibly into a potent leather. Playing above this, rather like a soft, solitary flute, is a surprisingly delicate floral accord, including a note of carnation or clove. In my experience the tenuous counterpoint between this and the hefty leather and woods really is something special.
After an hour or so the dry herb accord begins to peel away to more fully reveal the carnation against the conifer and leather background. Meanwhile the black pepper, along with vetiver and sage(?), give Patou a bitter edge that may not be to everybody's liking.
The first real hint of sweetness in Patou emerges even later, in the form of a faint vanilla and amber. And when I say faint, I mean it - these notes hover just on the verge of perception. They're not so much an accord as an atmospheric effect that ever-so-slightly tempers the scent's edge.
Patou is tenacious and mellows only very slowly as it wears. The bitter vetiver persists over the sandalwood and (real?) oakmoss foundation, but eases up enough to allow the amber and vanilla some breathing room. About four hours into the drydown Patou's thorns finally blunt a bit, leaving amber, spices, and vanilla to relax over moss, leather, and woods. This phase is when I enjoy Patou the most, and I'm happy to report that it continues for hours without fading. An exceptionally well-blended castoreum note lends some animalic danger all the way through and keeps Patou from wandering into "old man" territory.
The overall impression is a bit harsh and aggressive (we are talking 1980 here folks,) but not at all brutish - more like a 1930s Humphrey Bogart than a pugnacious street punk. It's tough and edgy, but not radical. The sillage and projection are both excellent, and I strongly recommend applying Patou with a light hand. Otherwise you could wind up smelling like you bathed in the stuff.
I suspect that for a certain generation (mine) that came of age in the 1980s, this is what a man's fragrance ought to smell like. Rock solid, serious, and full of power. This may be part of the reason that Patou is so revered. It probably doesn't hurt either that Patou pour Homme stands in sharp relief against the plethora of dilute powdered soft drinks that pass as fragrances these days.
Don't get the impression that Patou pour Homme is without merit. Far, far from it. Some hallowed classics (like Bois du Portugal,) have disappointed me, while others (including JHL,) have lived up to their reputations. Patou is a great scent. It's characterful, incredibly complex, and develops through an exciting sequence of moods over a very long time. I find it easier to wear than some of the other late twentieth century powerhouses like Kouros and Yatagan. Even so, I don't have all that many occasions to wear something like this. (I don't do leveraged buyouts or corporate takeovers.)
So is Patou the greatest of all men's fragrances? I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but I can understand why some do. This emperor certainly is wearing clothes, but he's not the only well dressed man in town.