Reviews of Patou pour Homme (1980)
by Jean Patou

Yes, it's a superb masterpiece.

However, if it were in production and readily available some twit might refer to it as " an old man's juice. " No, I'm not kidding; it's uber-elegant and to noses raised on the anorexic 90's aquas--to use Luca Turin's phrase--let alone today's androgynous unisex frags, it might feel ancient. Ditto Dunhill 34, Versaille PH, Richard James etc.

On second thought I should not say "etc"--what other aristocratic masterpieces come to mind?

I wish to high heaven it would be in production, it would be a small price to pay.

The full pyramid according to Scent Direct (Thank you, Naed) includes the following notes not mentioned here:

Origanum and Petigrain in the top. (hot pepper?)

Middle ones of Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Hay, Jasmin, Sandal and Pine Needle.

Base of Leather, Amber, Castoreum, Olibanum,Tonka and Vanilla.

A sublime balancing act. Sorry to be simply 'part of the chorus', but I'm in great company here.

It doesn't get better.

The most beautiful masculine fragrance I have ever had the pleasure of wearing and owning.

No heavy handed words I could muster will do this scent justice. It's a masterpiece of blending and Kerleo will always be remembered for this exquisite creation.

Wearing Patou PH is equivalent to having mental sex through olfactory.

Patou pour Homme

Masterpiece, the word is thrown about quite a bit here on Basenotes. It is probably as subjective a term as it gets especially in realms of the senses. My check on what a masterpiece is came near the end of a two-week trip to Italy. We had been to Ravenna, Venice, and Florence; and on our last day had finally booked a ticket to the big art musesum in Florence, The Uffizi. We had been in a number of museums at this point and to say I was burnt-out on looking at paintings would be putting it mildly. I was walking into a gallery and going "pope, baby jesus, mary, medici, next!" Until I walked into one and went "pope, baby jesus, mar....oooh wait that's different". I'd walk up for a closer look and the artist would be Titian, Raphael, Botticelli, or Carvaggio. These pieces stood out. They had something extra or different. Sometimes a depth and sometimes a use of color that was clearly unique from the other well-executed paintings surrounding it. The point here is that when you encounter something different than the rest you immediately know it. So it is with Jean Kerleo's 1980 masterpiece Patou pour Homme. Patou pour Homme is easily one of the best scents I have ever worn on my skin. From the first time I wore it until this time there has never been a time where I haven't been blown away by its beauty. What makes it so special on me? This is that rarest of scents where I can pick out individual notes but it is the harmony with which they combine which makes this special. This is perfectly embodied in the opening of this scent. The beginning is an herbal medley of bergamot, sage, pepper, and tarragon which is quickly joined by lavender. When I first spray on Patou pour Homme the herbal character roars out of the gate but the lavender is right there to bring it under control and make this an accord that is spicy and floral without being identifiably one or the other. This is the rarest of scents in that it can take well-trodden notes and combine them in a new way to make me experience them differently. This happens in the heart. How many scents have vetiver, cedar and patchouli? How many scents would amp up the clean lines of cedar, combine it with vetiver to give it an edge, and add a little earthiness in patchouli? Probably the same number. In Patou pour Homme. Kerleo chooses to let the patchouli take the fore and uses the clean lines of cedar and vativer to constrain its usual expansive nature. This turns into a patchouli that is dry but not earthy. It becomes almost resinous, like incense and incredible, on me. The heart comes off like an incense accord but an incense I've never smelled in real life. This is the rarest of scents in that all that has come before sets you up for a knockout punch at the end. Kerleo was clearly going for a fougere feel and his base goes for that using oakmoss, sandalwood and labdanum. The labdanum comes first as it continues the resinous feel of the heart and allows the transition into the base. This base has one of the most arid sandalwoods I've tried and in conjunction with the labdanum and then the oakmoss this forms a woody mossy resinous accord that is gorgeous. It lasts and lasts and lasts on me. Patou pour Homme deserves to be in the Uffizi of perfume so a bored colognoisseur can walk in and go " aquatic, oriental, chypre....ooh that's different".

This had been my standard. I would appreciate recommendations as to a replacement.

While I like this (oh hell, I love it), I don't want to get too chummy with it, as I have only a small bottle, which I know won't last. This shares many of the qualities of Derby, though whereas Derby seems gone in 30 minutes on me, Patou goes on and on. On me, the drydowns are indistinguishable from one another. Warm, luxurious: tell me again why this was discontinued.

I find this odd. Smells like a cross between a chypre and a fougere. The opening seems like a fougere with green fern and the drydown feels like a chypre with light mossy notes. I don't know what so oriental about this and what's with all the effusive praise is all about.

This is a monument to the artistry of perfume making. It is very hard to review such a nearly-perfect product. There is something about the hot pepper note in Patou PH that is a complete stroke of genius that makes this unequalled, and that would leave one wondering: where ever did he think of that?! It is iconic, unique and supremely sophisticated and masculine in a way that few, if any, fragrances today could ever be. It is rich, slightly warm, incredibly complex; sweet only for a moment, and the moment's gone. Too great to last, it is sadly gone, and like Garbo, all the more alluring for its absence. You can catch a hint in samples, and see its name mentioned, but to get a lot of this, enough of this, well, that's not really possible is it?

I ordered a sample of this from TPC, and I could swear, the top notes were turned off a bit. It really did smell very unhealthy indeed, so guys, be aware if you`re going to buy a full bottle. We know it isn`t cheap, so it could be a disasterful suprise.
I presume this was discontinued a long time ago, and naturally the bottle should have been at least well stored, otherwise the time could have done some damage.

Judging by note sample I have, this is to me one of those, should I say, "overrated fragrances" which has been getting it`s status mainly because it is so rare.
OK, it is rich and highly aromatic Oriental, but is it really that special after all..??
No, if you ask me.

I think Patou pour Homme is slightly overrated here at Basenotes, but that doesn't mean it's not a great fragrance. I don't find the opening as loud and herbaceous as others, on the contrary, I think PPH is one of the few fragrances that seem to be very smooth from start to finish. I love its slightly "oily" character, noticeable especially in the opening, which is probably responsible for its smoothness and which also gives it an expensive, sophisticated feeling. What I like a bit less is the smoky, incense-like note which may add masculinity to the fragrance, but it diminishes its luxurious aura. The drydown is truly a high-class smell: woody, smooth, rich, refined, intellectual, stylish, elegant and again, expensive.
Overall, PPH is a wonderful experience, one you may not discover in many other fragrances. One of the very few scents that come close to perfection, yet they don't really achieve it.

Patou pour Homme is one of the finest men's scents I am fortunate enough to own. It starts out very herbaceous and loud. I'm not partial to the opening personally. It seems to die out almost completely when it reaches the carnation phase and then out of nowhere the woods (excellent sandalwood among them), mosses and labdanum rise up like a phoenix from the ashes. This final phase lasts for hours and hours on me. FYI, if you like this one, you may want to find a bottle of Maxim's PH and see if it doesn't suit your liking as well.

As a novice, I have little to say that will sound as intelligent and informed as the other posters here....but perhaps my opinion will be of use to those similar to myself, a child of the 70's who knows what fragrances he likes, but lacks the erudition/practice to identify the notes!

Based on the glowing reviews here, I just HAD to order a decant from the Perfumed Court...and I am greatly underwhelmed by what I received. What I smell is "L'eau de 1980's," evocative of hairy-chested men wearing gold-chains.

The initial blast that slapped me in the face upon first spray was decidedly Brut 33-ish, and the drydown smacks of Old Spice. I like it, but only in a really odd, nostalgic way. In fact, upon first whiff, I had a rather Proustian moment of recollection in which I was taken back to my elementary school lunchtime. From Kindergarten until perhaps sixth grade, my father (bless him) would lovingly pack my lunch for me in the morning, before I would leave to meet the school bus. The thing about my father is that his morning bathroom ritual ended with his shave and an extremely liberal splashing on of either Faberge's finest (i.e. Brut) or Old Spice. Following this application of such copious amounts of the skin stinging aftershave, he'd proceed to immediately make my sandwich--with the invariable result that the bread he touched would retain more than a slight taste of the cologne itself. My whines of protest never changed this habit of my father's. Thank you Jean Patou, for bringing me a slice of my childhood!

But I digress. As a now geeky, 30-something male seeking to inject a bit of style into his life, I'll look for subtler, more complex scents than this in the future.

I can't add much to the wonderful reviews submitted below by the devotees of this fragrance. I simply wanted to echo the (near) unanimous praise, even if only to add to the statistical certainty that this is an extraordinary scent that everybody should try. A Homeric epic of a fragrance, timeless, profound, and masculine.

All's been already said here and although I'm usually reluctant to sing praises and rave about stuff let me say this - from the very start to the last fading whiff this beauty is for me the single utmost divine and out-of-this-world perfection in a bottle. I'm not being nostalgic here, I've discovered PPH only after it'd been discontinued. I'm not so easy to please either and have been, let's just say, not so impressed by quite a few universally acclaimed classics (Antaeus, New York, JHL, Tiffany for Men, to name a few) so let's be serious here - if there's anything out there that smells better than this I want to know its name please. And how could someone think of this scent as dated is beyond my comprehension. There is not a single molecule in PPH that smells dated to me, Patou Pour Homme EDT is timelessness personified/scentified. Besides, I consider PPH to be a very sensual, almost romantic (and 'as good as some sex', yes pluran) scent rather than formal. Thank you Mr Jean Kerleo, this is art and you're on par with the greatest artists in my book.

And you dear Mr Markus Strobel, P&G's vice president of global fine fragrances, are you out of your mind not to have brought this back yet? Do your homework please, find out how worshipped and sought after PPH is, how much it's selling for these days and above all SMELL IT. Then quickly re-launch (at least limited) production of the ORIGINAL (no'tweaking' with aquatics please) Patou Pour Homme. Just do it or stick with selling diapers and detergents.

Ok, I hope I don't offend the legion of Patou Pour Homme admirers. I find it very good. I was trying to think of what this might compare to that I know, and the best I can do is it may be the more formal version of RL Safari. It exudes class. Very good longevity, decent sillage.
However, the part where I hope does not offend. I realize this is discontinued. I love it but would not consider buying it at the pretty much $200 it's being sold at if you can find it. So, in essence I think it's great but not that great. I do wonder what it sold for when it was in production.

So here it is: the legendary Patou pour Homme.

Once you get the tricky lid open, Patou launches as a very strong, very odd blend of green notes, bitter citrus, hot pepper, and tarragon, which together form an accord not unlike a smoky Speyside single malt whisky. I like single malt whiskies.

The tarragon bows out rather quickly, or at least moves well into the background, while a bouquet of dry herbs and lavender moves forward in its place. This is supported by a subtle sandalwood note and a touch of conifer resin. The whisky grows darker and more smoky, transforming almost imperceptibly into a potent leather. Playing above this, rather like a soft, solitary flute, is a surprisingly delicate floral accord, including a note of carnation or clove. In my experience the tenuous counterpoint between this and the hefty leather and woods really is something special.

After an hour or so the dry herb accord begins to peel away to more fully reveal the carnation against the conifer and leather background. Meanwhile the black pepper, along with vetiver and sage(?), give Patou a bitter edge that may not be to everybody's liking.

The first real hint of sweetness in Patou emerges even later, in the form of a faint vanilla and amber. And when I say faint, I mean it - these notes hover just on the verge of perception. They're not so much an accord as an atmospheric effect that ever-so-slightly tempers the scent's edge.

Patou is tenacious and mellows only very slowly as it wears. The bitter vetiver persists over the sandalwood and (real?) oakmoss foundation, but eases up enough to allow the amber and vanilla some breathing room. About four hours into the drydown Patou's thorns finally blunt a bit, leaving amber, spices, and vanilla to relax over moss, leather, and woods. This phase is when I enjoy Patou the most, and I'm happy to report that it continues for hours without fading. An exceptionally well-blended castoreum note lends some animalic danger all the way through and keeps Patou from wandering into "old man" territory.

The overall impression is a bit harsh and aggressive (we are talking 1980 here folks,) but not at all brutish - more like a 1930s Humphrey Bogart than a pugnacious street punk. It's tough and edgy, but not radical. The sillage and projection are both excellent, and I strongly recommend applying Patou with a light hand. Otherwise you could wind up smelling like you bathed in the stuff.

I suspect that for a certain generation (mine) that came of age in the 1980s, this is what a man's fragrance ought to smell like. Rock solid, serious, and full of power. This may be part of the reason that Patou is so revered. It probably doesn't hurt either that Patou pour Homme stands in sharp relief against the plethora of dilute powdered soft drinks that pass as fragrances these days.

Don't get the impression that Patou pour Homme is without merit. Far, far from it. Some hallowed classics (like Bois du Portugal,) have disappointed me, while others (including JHL,) have lived up to their reputations. Patou is a great scent. It's characterful, incredibly complex, and develops through an exciting sequence of moods over a very long time. I find it easier to wear than some of the other late twentieth century powerhouses like Kouros and Yatagan. Even so, I don't have all that many occasions to wear something like this. (I don't do leveraged buyouts or corporate takeovers.)

So is Patou the greatest of all men's fragrances? I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but I can understand why some do. This emperor certainly is wearing clothes, but he's not the only well dressed man in town.

Notes:
Top: Basil oil, Clary Sage oil, Lavender, Origanum, Petitgrain
Middle: Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Hay, Jasmin, Patchouli, Pine Needle, Sandal, Vetiver
Base: Amber, Castoreum, Leather, Moss, Oilbanum, Tonka, Vanilla

Its interesting to note that so far, none of the reviews have described Patou Pour homme's (PPH) composition in detail. Is it really the best mens fragrance created? Is it worth selling your kidney for? Is it really that much superior to similar classics from the 70s and 80s? Will gas prices keep rising? I will take a crack at providing a detailed review and answer these questions in the process.

PPH initiates the supposed godly experience with top notes of lavender piggybacking on a crystal clear clary sage oil note. This pleasant opening fades fast, and is ushered to the heart of the composition shouldered by jasmin and carnation. These floral notes are the calm before the storm - a soft inviting aroma before the more "macho" accord muscles into contention and takes over. The main accord of PPH is a bitter herbal slightly smoky aroma which may not be to everyones liking. It blooms more in warmer weather, but thankfully a vibrant patchouli note adds a much needed ambrosial earthiness to keep things balanced. From here its smooth sailing - PPH's base introduces a warm and smooth amber dominated melange which when combined with the herbal smoky character of the main accord creates attractive sillage.

PPH is a light oriental which is well composed, sports good quality ingredients, and lasts for a good 8 hours. With all that said, I dont find anything in its composition to put it at a higher pedestal than say Van Cleep pour homme, Chanel Antaeus or Gucci pour homme ('78 - discontinued). At its regular price, it would be a thumbs up - however at its current discontinued price of $150+ I am not so sure. Try before you buy, and try the aforementioned classics as well. Patou pour homme - whats in your pocket ?

Patou pour homme - masculine, green, elusive, transcendent, soothing, ethereal, rare, subtle, comforting, stimulating, contemplative, profound and absorbing. I like it very much.

When all the others let you down
Patou Pour Homme came to town
It’s deep and complex
As good as some sex
Herbal, spicy, and woody
Oh man, it’s a goody
The evolution’s profound
Tenacious and sound
The drydown’s ourtrageous
Extended and contagious
It makes you feel good
The way that you should
There’s no doubt about it
It’ll give you some wood
It’s the bomb
Exotic, and full of aplomb
The best I’ve worn
And I’ve no need to mourn
For I own five bottles
And can spray with full throttle

Whoa!!!! I have many great bottles of many great scents.

I just tried this on (EDT) having found a tester bottle. It is elegant but not unwearable, understated but not whimpy, masculine but not macho, refined but not "too smooth". It is a very complex scent and a masterpiece of blending the notes mix but are all apparent. Anyone know why a company would discontinue such an original and wearable scent!?

Move over Versailles here comes my new special scent!

This is a superbly blended, rich, and
intoxicating scent. The fact that
at the time of this writing all 15
previous reviewers have given this
the thumbs-up says it all. This is
extremely rare in Basenotes reviews
and speaks to the almost universal
adulation fragrance lovers heap on this
jewel. Please bring it back,
Proctor & Gamble!

Well, it's easy.

The finest men's fragrance ever created.

Patou pour Homme, a real Kerleo gem!One cannot compare this opulent fragance with the stronger fragances out today, and I cannot understand, like many of you surely, why it has been discontinued!It represents that what what a fragance should be about; stimulating the imagination,the scence of luxury, the scent of the mystique,this fragance does all that!

Two thumbs WAY up. By far, my finest blind buy to date. Hard to believe this perfect jewel has been discontinued. Jean Patou is the most passionately romantic masculine fragrances I've ever experienced...a true "Lady Killer". Be careful where you wear this one. I'll be purchasing the few remaining drops that I'm aware of, but if you can find it...Buy it!!!

Positively lush, this potion.
To discontinue this should be a crime.
("Officer, please arrest the President of Proctor & Gamble for having committed a heinous felony.")

None of the praises below are overstated. Patou Pour Homme is every bit the treasure the other reviewers say it is. I can really add no more, but that won’t stop me from submitting this review:

WHAT THEY SAID! Rich, deep, complex, challenging, intriguing, perfectly balanced and blended, masculine, long, long lasting. It is a moral imperative that this beauty be produced again for a new generation of perfection worshipers.

"What's your favorite? The one you couldn't live without?" Popular question among Basenoters. When it comes to absolute favorite, this fickle nose changes it mind ever few weeks, as it has done for years. How does one choose?

Funny, Jean Patou Pour Homme has been sat in my "favorite" throne more than anything else in my wardrobe. It is the one I reach for when leaving on a trip. It's the default when nothing else will seems right, or when I cannot make up my mind. It's the one fragrance I always enjoy with the same intensity and wonder as the first time I sniffed it years ago.

I am loath to overpraise it (its everything stated below and more) since the exisiting supply of this now out-of-production masterpiece is quickly disappearing and quite frankly, I don't want to assist my competition. Sorry, I am unashamed of my selfishness when it comes to Jean Patou Pour Homme.

Griff

Perfection. Though I prefer Patou Prive, this is a wonderful oriental with an almost nutty-woodsy drydown. Magnificent.

My favourite

This really is the bomb. Deep and rich, it is a superb oriental of unsurpassed complexity that develops fantastically on the skin. A beacon in the world of fragrance. How could Patou have discontinued this? Even if it didn't sell in volume, there are a number of devotees who would doubtlessly make it worth Patou's while to produce an occasional batch.

Hands down one of the best male fragrances ever created. Right up there with Antaeus and Eau Sauvage. Patou is heady, rich and very french. I still remember picking the bottle out at random from the Bloomingdale's counter and spraying my arm with it for the first time. It stopped me in my tracks. Not many scents can cause a lifelong memory with their first impression but this did. I still have about an ounce left that I use sparingly since I never know if I will ever see it again.

A very fine light oriental scent, especially through the subtle phases of its development. Think of the aristocratic gold of Chanel Pour Monsieur with a touch of light leather (even though there's no mention of leather in the fragrance table above, see the fragrance table at Scent Direct).