Phileas (1984)
by Nina Ricci

I still have the miniature they gave me as a sample in Paris the day it was launched. Althought I did not like this fragrance at first, it grew on me rather fast. In a way, Philéas reminds me of Yatagan by Caron. They share the pine needles, vetiver, patchouli and leather notes and both of them have that phantom celery note that is not mentioned in either olfactive pyramid. Although I love Philéas, I can understand why it did not catch on. This is certainly not an easy fragrance to wear. However, those who can wear it well will most definitely make heads turn.

18th January, 2012.

This is a rare gem! A sadly discontinued fragrance of immense beauty. Phileas is quite a complex composition that opens with a considerable amount of aldehydes, citruses and juniper for an overall effect that is at the same time stark, freshly-green and almost powdery. Patchouli rapidly makes its appearance joined by other spices (a light cinnamon) coniferous notes, leather and tobacco. In this phase Phileas reaches its peak of beauty with its perfect balance between the classic powerhouse style and an incredibly sophisticated elegance. In the drydown I get a lot of resinous notes (labdanum), pine, and cedarwood laying on a slightly metallic amber. Compelling and unique.

This is a very rare fragrance, so if you're lucky to find it, don't miss the chance to get it.

A masterpiece.

6th May, 2011.

Phileas clearly has its small band of ardent admirers, but this mid-eighties creation has been largely forgotten since its discontinuation. It has three very distinct phases, each one satisfying and in keeping with the Mediterranean mood Nina Ricci has attempted to evoke.

The opening is a blend of boozy herbs and citrus, which is perhaps more soothing than it is refreshing. It is a gloriously rich phase, ensuring a quite luxurious introduction. The middle phase is a finely balanced period, using the citrus presence in the opening as a fulcrum for the spicier heart note components. What should perhaps feel slightly cluttered and chaotic, actually feels mature, composed and even a little dirty. Despite being more leathery and spicy, there are similarities in the drydown with JHL by Aramis. Phileas has the edge in this department, in its concluding hours, it emits the sense of a job well done.

The longevity is good by Ricci standards, some four to five hours being a reasonable return. The sillage is not pronounced, and I find it is more enjoyable in the wake that it leaves rather than what is evident on the skin. Having tried Phileas at various times of the year, I find it really blossoms when the temperatures drop a little, and the spicier side is allowed to shine. Club and Signoricci are technically as accomplished as this, but Phileas is by far the most interesting masculine fragrance that Nina Ricci have ever produced.

22nd March, 2011.

There is a bit of truth in in all the reviews written before, so I will just add a few comments instead of another review. For my European environment this is the ideal cologne for frequent use: versatile and fresh as a fragrance can be that isn't based on citrus, mediterranean or acquatic elements. It is different enough to get you noticed, and I have yet to meet the person who will associate it with anything from the past, maybe because it is bare of sentimental elements and reminiscences of barber shops. Guerlain haters may love it, romantics better stay away!

17th January, 2010.

Unique vegetal chypre with animalic nuances. Something in between Oscar de la Renta`s Pour Lui and Yatagan. Very sharp and temperamental on my skin in the beginning perhaps mainly due the aldehydes, but the slightly soapy drydown smooth things up nicely.

There is a strong, perfume-y, feminine touch to this one. That’s actually very common with these old masculine chypre fragrances.

Great scent with wonderfully captivating concept and packing. I believe it had a terrific side products as well, such as bar soap….

To my mind probably one of the most tragic discontinuations ever.


Be very careful in purchase; I know there are bottles of this one with already spoiled juices inside. It was longtime ago discontinued, and this is kind of juice that (rich with lots of ingredients, including naturals) unfortunately doesn’t stand for time the best.

15th February, 2009.

Stinky! But in a good way. First sniff I recognized it as yet another 80's powerhouse. Fun fact: it's not, it fools you. It's still citrusy, mossy and a little dirty but it's quiet about it. Quiet for an 80's scent that is. Very nice but I still wwould have to go with Paco Rabanne pH or Bijan because they have a woodiness to them I like. Phileas has more of a vegetal/herbal tone to it and would be good to wear in the fall and spring or on cooler summer nights.

30th October, 2008.