Portos (1985)
by Aramis

A brisk citrus/aromatic opening introduces a contrasting dark, yet smooth animalic fougère accord that marks Portos as a close sibling to Jules and Lauder for Men, and a more polite cousin to Kouros. The musky animalic notes in Portos are neither as aggressive nor suggestive as those in Kouros, but Portos still manages the kind of vaguely unwashed masculine swagger that defines many of the 1980s “power scents.” Though clearly allied with Lauder for Men and Havana, Portos distinguishes itself from both in its lack of a strong tobacco note and a generous helping of amber in its base. It’s the Lauder fougère for non-smokers.

Interestingly, Portos does not radiate in the same strident manner as so many of the big 1980s fougères, which might make it more wearable in today’s more understated fragrance environment. Balance and blending are also outstanding, so that the central accords read as smooth, cohesive units as Portos matures on the skin. The drydown of clean patchouli, moss, and amber is civilized – even elegant – which comes as something of a surprise after the animalic heart. In fact, one Portos’s most distinguishing features is the contrast established between the relatively luminous opening and closing movements and the darker, more dangerous-smelling heart.

While it’s a shame that Portos has been discontinued, the move is in some sense understandable. With Havana, Tuscany, and Lauder for Men also in production, Lauder/Aramis had crowded their masculine lineup with fougères, and someone in management may have decided that Portos was redundant - especially as muscle-bound fougères lost market traction during the 1990s. Of course now, with fewer bold fougères left standing and the spineless aquatics of the 90s feeling more and more stale, scents like Portos and Havana are sorely missed. Ah, the irony of fashion…

15th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 29th November, 2010.)

Whoa, now THIS was some great stuff. (Can't believe that mine is the only review on the board thus far!)

This very heady, VERY "Eighties" scent had just enough anise -- not too much, as so many do today.

Remember this one quite fondly.

9th October, 2006.