Punjab is a beautiful and fairly peculiar masculine chypre of the 1970s, with quite a close resemblance to Phileas by Nina Ricci: same exotic inspiration, and a certain common ground of notes. Basically it is a chypre rich in aldehydes, herbs and spices, with humid flowers (jasmine, mostly) and a range of base notes on the camphoraceous-resinous-earthy side, also slightly skanky-leathery and woody. Aside from Phileas, the other reference I can think of mostly because of the flowers is Ténéré by Rabanne, although the similarity is not as strong as for Phileas. Punjab has however a certain and remarkable sort of "lonely-adventurer" refinement all over, with an amazing blend of rawness and class, telling us stories which seem just out of an Emilio Salgari book. The aldehydes are quite prominent, as it was in fashion back then, so it kind of smells "clearly" out of the '70s, therefore not exactly that modern; still it's fairly unique and memorable, mostly because of its peculiar exotic sophisticacy, raw and shady, but also somehow fun and effortless. Worth a try for sure.
30th September, 2014 (last edited: 05th December, 2014)
Genre: Woody Oriental
Capucci’s Punjab starts out on the skin as if it’s going to be a muscular 1980s fougère in the manner of Jules or Lauder for Men, and that’s precisely what it is…for exactly ten minutes. Then, quite suddenly, the bergamot and moss that prevailed at Punjab’s opening are overtaken by a cinnamon, carnation, and jasmine accord that reminds me more than a little of the parallel cinnamon, carnation, and rose in the likewise extinct Patou pour Homme. Punjab also shares some of the Patou’s incense and amber, but it distinguishes itself with more obvious moss and leather in its base notes, compositional traits that again align it more closely with the 1980s fougère “power scents.” In fact, the thing that interests me most about Punjab is the balanced tension it maintains between woody oriental and fougère character. While not overwhelming in its projection or sillage, Punjab is no lightweight, and it persists on the skin for hours before its warm ambery, labdanum-infused drydown. An excellent scent and a sad loss.
From the first moments this is a highly original creation: bergamot, citrus, juniper berries and artemisia combine with a herbal undertone to a very convincing mixture. Quite bright but rich and intense. In the drydown cinnamon apprears together with a flowery jasmine, and a complex pine-and-cedar aroma is added together with very nice geranium impressions. This is a beautifully complex yet very balanced phase, which on my skin assumes a honey note at times. The development is titillating, with a wet leather, amber and olibanum giving the base notes another twist. Very traditional yet highly original, with occasional hints of gentle spiciness, it is perfect for warmer autumn days. Superbly blended with excellent projection and good silage and a truly amazing longevity of over twelve hours on my skin. Capucci's masterpiece.
This is a very well-made scent. The ingredients are powerful but beautiful and well blended, and the scent is not heavy if it is carefully applied.
It starts aromatic and herbal, with bright juniper, citrus, and attractive herbal notes. It develops a lovely old-school spicy-barbershop character. The spices are quite peppery. The leather and amber are not a problem, and more of a background note. Overall, there is a charming warm-cool vibe.
Capucci have chosen quite an intriguing evolution for Punjab. It begins tightly wound, rich, dense and bittersweet – and it is simply allowed to unfurl itself.
It unwinds into a dry, spare, cedarwood heart, with a distant leather note. It does appear to run out of steam after a couple of hours, and even produces a brief period of dead air - but it is merely a comma in an excellent passage of creativity.The soft and aged leather finish it ushers in is quite lovely, and well worth the wait.
Punjab is a clear case of concept and execution being of the highest order.