R de Capucci (1986)
by Roberto Capucci

R de Capucci: R de Capucci was probably the coolest dude back then. it is well mannered, mildly powdery, fresh out of the barbershop with a nice after shave cologne kinda feel. it undoubtedly comes across as a green scent..not gritty, but intense, more like holding a bunch of freshly sprouted leaves against nose...doing so, the leaves would give off a slighlty bitter, almost citrusy feel..my point is, the citrus doesnt take ones attention away from th lovely green accord, it's anything but restrained and classy and it wants to make an impression as an remarkably fresh and green scent without smellin dated or lemony. Surprisingly, after 15 minutes of application, it gets a bit powdery and the green notes gets a bit more intense, here it reminds me of the structure of the chanel classic, Pour Monsieur. if anything, this could've easliy become Pour Monsiuer Concentrate...would have been very apt. Notes of lemon gleam past now with a shin to it, giving this gem a freshness and making it more versatile. floral accords adds to the charm and gives it the signature accord of an era it represented..basenote are pretty soft, mildly powdery, sweet, mossy with lots of fresh vetiver, vanilla like sweetness and patchouli..
This is for someone who admires Chanel Pour Monsieur type scents

When I first sprayed R de Capucci (I had bought blind due to the recs of BNers) I was immediately reminded of the opening blast of Monsieur de Givenchy. That is, however, where the comparison ends.* This is one of the most interesting fragrances in my wardrobe. Beautifully balanced and very long lasting. The dry down is fabulous without ever becoming cloying or "stale". Truly a "sleeper".

*shouldn't say comparison ends. As I think about it, is is very much like MdG only with more "oomph".

Green chypre of leather and the typical oakmoss. Very nice citrus opening, excellent floral heart and a fantastic drydown of chypre ingredients. Classy blend of a subdued macho fragrance.

I was shocked at the Yatagan comparisons here. Over the years of wearing it, I have come to dislike Yatagan immensely and yet I admire this fragrance – I don’t find anything similar in the two. To my nose R de Capucci is similar enough to Antaeus to be a lighter version of that Chanel classic. It has similar notes and similar progressions. It’s doesn’t have the special Chanel touch of the original Antaeus, but R de Capucci is an excellent version that I have chosen to purchase in lieu of the newer, reformulated Antaeus. To my nose, R de Capucci has more fluidity and subtlety, and its less aggressive nature makes it more acceptable in modern circumstances. I don’t get much powder in the opening; I get a clean green / citrus accord with aldehydes and a slightly animalic background. The animalic background never broadens or intensifies; it stays as a far off background note through the run of the fragrance. The rose in the middle comes to me in the form of a rose / jasmine / green accord – quite beautiful and deep, but to my nose, the rose is in equal partnership with the jasmine and the green. The green is probably the vetiver that acts sharply green instead of immediately exhibiting its earthy woody persona. The drydown is an excellent leather / moss that must have strong elements of vetiver and patchouli because leather / moss is, perhaps, my least favorite drydown, and I enjoy this particular drydown. There is little or no sweetness in the fragrance yet the fragrance doesn’t come across as heavy or dark. R de Capucci is an excellent fragrance. It has strong elements of the classic ‘80s fragrances, but it is quite wearable today: Whether it reminds of Yatagan, Antaeus, or Aramis, it is an excellent scent – get it while you can.

This was my signature fragrance for years. I love the large range of notes which are all distinguishable but are blended beautifully and never fight; it is amazingly uncluttered. The top is a blast of fresh celebration, very clean and pure champagne citrus. The heart boasts a beautiful deep rose and aldehydeic florals with some rich jasmine. The drydown is phenomenal, the balance of leather with the other notes simply astounding. I don't know why this is not more widely known or rated. The only thing it isn't is sexy. It's too clean for that.

R. de Capucci has a classical opening of citrus and aromatics with plenty of dry, powdery lavender. Next up is a very rounded sandalwood supported by toasty spices, including a distinct touch of nutmeg. There is a dry, edgy rose in the heart as well, its character sharpened by an angular bitter note that seems to emanate from the woods. Since there's quite a bit of powder in its composition, R. de Capucci might come off as stuffy and "perfumey" without this bitter edge. Instead, the scent registers as tough and uncompromising. It's no Yatagan, but it's certainly not trying to smell "pretty," either.

R. de Capucci's bitter note eventually reveals itself as a very sharp vetiver, which takes over for the rose as the woody accord's principal accent. The drydown arrives quickly, but it is extended and attractive. All traces of the floral and aromatic notes dissipate to leave the vetiver resting on a very mossy leather base. There is nothing remotely sweet in R. de Capucci, and the impression that it leaves is that of a particularly austere chypre.

If you like Yatagan but find it too confrontational for daily wear, it's worth seeking out R. de Capucci. It's just as dry and austere as the Caron, but less harsh and animalic. In fact, it's civilized enough to make a sophisticated office scent.