A nice scent indeed. The opening is fresh and pleasant, mostly pungent spicy lemon, with a slight camphor feel at the base (some linalool feeling like in many insecticides), on a really nice, dense and quite dark base, with mossy/earthy and sweet/mellow notes of, respectively, oak moss and sandalwood (the same exact sandal note you get - enriched and amplified - in Santal Noble). And, of course, vetiver: great, thick, tasty vetiver. With a bit of white musks perhaps – something soft and mellow. So basically the axe is citrus-vetiver-oakmoss-sandalwood. A bit retrò, but not that usual, as many "eau de colognes" tend to me more classic and light, avoiding this oakmoss/wood dark, organic and earthy vibe. With some floral notes also, so it's quite domesticated and elegant - earthy, but not "raw". This composition reminded me a lot of some Parfum d'Empire fragrances, or better, the way round – probably MPeG is one of the ispirations of Msr. Corticchiato. An elegant personality with a vibrant natural twist. The drydown has a persistent citral/verbena note which I don't enjoy much, but apart from that, it's really nice.
After sampling my way through a ton of MPG's, this is definitely one of my favorites, but I'm a sucker for vetiver.
From the very top, that chypre smell is evident, especially a slightly fusty old-fashioned bergamot. But the star is definitely the vetiver. There's a fusion of lemon and ginger that smells like sparkling 7Up at first, but after an hour or so, it's all about the vetiver, insistent and green and peppery and flanked with a toasted almond smell that I really enjoyed. A rather dark geranium slowly slipped in and grew in prominence until the base, which was a rather dark mix of patchouli and geranium over mossy chypre elements, with the vetiver still humming along in its new, darker surroundings.
All in all, a very good traditional vetiver. It's weird - there are so many of these that even when I really like one, it's hard to get excited about it. Seriously, there are a lot of these and they're all really good - I could go broke buying all the vetivers that I like. Definitely a thumbs up, but without something to really set it apart (like Encre Noire's smoke or Le Labo's filthy animalics), I don't feel like I have much use for a whole bottle.
A sharp, citric vetiver, very dry and slightly powdery. A very appealing scent but longevity and sillage are below average so I'm giving it a neutral. It would probably benefit from a bit more vetiver. If you like Penhaligon's Racquets Formula or Creed's Vetiver 48 chances are you'll like this too; it shares some of their old school barbershop charm.
Truly uplifting lightly smoked lemon opening. Those with hangups about polishing furniture should pass. The lemon dies down a bit. The smoke hangs around. As solid as this fragrance is, as nice as it smells, there is a serious lack of anything truly magical about it. No one is going to lose a moment of sleep in anticipation of wearing this fragrance to Mr. Darcy's ball and captivating all who come near.
17th December, 2011 (last edited: 21st December, 2011)
A solid and relatively safe vetiver citrus scent.
Longevity is really disappointing. It is sad because the top notes are nice and bracing with quality raw materials. I personally prefer vetivers with more substance and relief so Racine is not my first choice. Mona di Orio and Villoresi make vetivers that better fit the bill.