Perfume Directory

Rahät Loukoum (1998)
by Serge Lutens

Advertisement

Rahät Loukoum information

Year of Launch1998
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 143 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerChristopher Sheldrake
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Rahät Loukoum

Rahät Loukoum is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 1998 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake

Reviews of Rahät Loukoum

I like to think I’m critical and articulate when it comes to reflecting on my experiences of perfumes. And yet, there are, knowingly, a couple of blind spots within which I maintain nothing close to rigor or objectivity. The first is Serge Lutens, as a fragrance collection, as a brand identity, as an art practice, and as a cult icon. Color me obsessed (and that color is obviously black with violet trim). I’m a sucker for his melancholy glam photography; I find his riddlesome texts accompanying perfume releases entirely believable and intriguing; I fancy the lavish layers of luxe, psychoanalysis, and femme fatality that characterize his sensibilities. The shop in Paris is one of my favorite places. His designs on perfume are nearly always elegant, with shades of hysteria, realized mostly with Christopher Sheldrake as the nose. Whether moody gourmands, fabulous woods, or the more recent twisted takes on clean, airy vapors, I am seduced into the fantasies that Lutens offers. Pick an ingredient or direction, and I find the Lutens/Sheldrake genius to render them unique and perverse, with such depth of intelligence that I learn how to smell something anew with whole dimensions previously unappreciated. Maybe most incredible is that I tend to find them correctly priced—the ache of saving up and spending on them feels like part of the whole unsettling beauty of the thing.

My other blind spot is whatever approaches a toothsome heliotrope note. As accounted elsewhere, the marzipan and Play-Doh softness hypnotizes me on contact.

So with Lutens’ Rahät Loukoum, I was most likely a goner from the start. Dadaist Tristan Tzara’s line “Thought is made in the mouth” comes to mind. This smells of sinister almond pastry aerated with aldehydes, the finest dough (something of puff pastry or meringue) shaped more into spacious architecture than bite sized snack. The way a building is devastated to ruins, or the delicate crumble of the Mexican De La Rosa peanut candy that comes in rose-decorated wrappers, Rahät Loukoum falls apart into the most seductive powder.

This scent is divisive among wearers around the degree to which sweetness is perceived—so much so that I’m left wondering if we even mean the same things when we call something sweet. I’ve been revisiting sugared fragrances of late, and in that context I don’t think of RL as particularly sweet at all, but more possessed of a throaty bitterness: crushed cherry fruit, pipe smoke, an alluringly pale reminder of the more wicked musks found elsewhere in the house of Lutens, and slightly screechy roses drifting through some back corridor of the scent. Other sultry, honeyed florals are nestled into the magnificent almond-heliotrope effect. Given the notes that make up Rahät Loukoum, part of its brilliance is how it turns up sharp where it should be saccharine, dreamily complicated where one would expect tawdry simplicity (indeed other reviewers find it inexcusably cheap). It is comforting insofar as psychologically fraught experiences covered over in pleasantry can be reassuring in their familiarity. For those who find it flatly sweet, inhale more deeply, find the agreeable madness, like a hatter at tea, that the depth of this scent affords.
21st September, 2018
Meriem Show all reviews
United States
This is a decent gourmand, but for me, a bit underwhelming.

The primary problem with it where I am concerned is that it's a riff on marzipan to me, not lokum, which is confusing to the point of being a little offputting (I might be a bit too literalist, but if you're going to create a perfume named "Rahät Loukhoum," I feel that it really should do what it says on the tin. Or at least not smell so very much like something else entirely). It's almonds and cherries. Almonds and cherries are lovely. But they aren't roses, or pomegranates, or mastic, or pistachios, or any other note one might reasonably expect to get from something purporting to be based on Turkish delight. I don't even really get a sugar/powdery note from it as I would expect with lokum, but rather a honey and vanilla.

Laying aside the fact that it just isn't very lokum-like, and judging it on its own terms: it's pleasant, but it's not very intriguing. And since it is not in fact lokum to me, I am a bit underenthusiastic about it all around.
08th November, 2017
Notorious as a sweet candy bomb, with reviews so polarized that you know there's something really interesting going on. Rahat Loukoum is a kind of dare, along the lines of "bet you can't pull off this one." Well sure you can, if you love sweet almondy fragrances. This one moves to the head of that class via complexity and style. Various support notes, notably aldehydes and bitter almond, play in and out for hours, lending a much-needed air of playfulness and joy to a fragrance that easily could have veered into tragic overkill. Try to track down one of the older, smaller bottles. A tiny bit goes a very long way.
08th October, 2017 (last edited: 10th October, 2017)
A variation on the classic formula of Mugler's Angel.

From the descriptions of cherry and almond in the reviews here, I was prepared to smell the first version of Lutens' Louve (almost a decade later), but no.

One immediately gets the Angel impression of Christmas potpourri one smells in all the mall shops at Christmas time. Candles reek of it, it is sprayed on wreaths and is contained in actual aerosol cans for spraying about the house at holiday time.

Being rather a fan of this scent, though not interested in wearing it after my first bottle of Angel emptied, I can recommend it as rather festive. I can only give it a neutral rating due to it being copied from Mugler's formula with fewer ingredients. Rahat concentrates on linear fulfillment of the top notes of Angel, rather than truly replicating that complex and unique creation.

Considering the cost difference, best to choose the original Angel and get the benefit of more thought and effort.
07th June, 2016
This is a very complex and pleasant feminine fragrance that you may not get all the layers of the scent with only one testing. it took my a few more testing because of it's complexity.
The opening is a sweet and bitter combination of cherry, almonds and honey. the cherry note is a little bit harsh at the start and I do recommend to let it stay on your skin for about 4-5 seconds and then try smelling it. there is a strong bitterness beside this fruity opening and it has an oily quality into it.
Actually it's like the smell of bitter almond's oil plus fruity cherry and sweet honey.
The honey note is the savior here that calms down the bitterness of the almond note and also with the help of cherry creates a sensual fruity aroma.
As time passes, I'm getting a little less cherry and at the same time a little more honey. the bitterness of the almonds does exist, but now it has less oily feeling and a little more bitterness. with these small changes suddenly musk kicks in from nowhere and it says hi! it's not that strong but I can feel it beside other notes.
The quality and blending of the notes is awesome. you can smell and separate all these notes one by one which is amazing.
In the base the fruity cherry and bitter almond notes are in the background. at this level warm and sweet honey note and musk exchanging their position with vanilla. the sweetness of the scent does exist though, but now it's vanilla like sweetness instead of honey like and musky sweetness.
If guys who reading this do enjoy sweet and bitter scents, this will work for them too. this can be unisex for sure.
Projection is good and longevity is around 6-7 hours on my skin.
Master Christopher Sheldrake did it again!
19th June, 2014
I sniffed out the milky bitter almonds right off the bat but they subside well enough to greet the arrival of heliotrope and cherries on a surprisingly resinous base of vanilla and tonka. Sweet? Hardly. And I do have low tolerance for sweetness. Yet this does not set off my saccharin siren. Perhaps the key lies in moderating the fragrance application.

The texture feels slightly powdery, much like a delicate dusting of icing sugar on a piece of confection but considering the hint of floral note at its heart the overall impression I have of RAHAT LOUKOUM is not of a dense and syrupy-sweet straight-out gourmand but rather of a light oriental with a gourmand twist. If you like airy powdery almond/heliotrope scents such as Hypnotic Poison, Cologne Blanche or L'Eau d'Hiver, chances are you will enjoy this.
28th February, 2012 (last edited: 16th March, 2012)

Add your review of Rahät Loukoum

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Rahät Loukoum products online

Search for on eBay

Serge Lutens RAHAT LOUKOUM EDP 75ml PALAIS ROYAL EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION.Bell Jar

$207.90
End Date: Saturday Dec-1-2018 2:03:17 PST
Buy It Now for only: $207.90
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Member images of Rahät Loukoum

There are no member images of Rahät Loukoum yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement

Advertisement