Revillon pour Homme opens with an aromatic blast of herb-laced lavender supported by hints of oakmoss and cedar rising from the base. As the composition moves to its early heart the aromatic lavender remains but quickly takes a back seat to the oakmoss which takes on a soapy, slightly ashy tobacco green character. Moving through its middle, the lavender and oakmoss gradually dissipate, allowing supporting carnation and prominent green coniferous fir to enter the fold with trace hints of tonka bean-derived sweetness also entering the mix. During the late dry-down the oakmoss and lavender finally fade completely to the background as mild cinnamon spiced woods join the remnants of the now diminished green fir and slightly sweet tonka bean through the finish. Projection is very good, especially early but longevity is slightly below average at about 6-7 hours on skin.
As soon as I applied Revillon pour Homme on skin I knew I loved it. The first thing that grips you is the aromatic lavender and super-strong soapy oakmoss. Early-on it is hard not to make the comparison with vintage Captain Molyneux, as the two compositions smell quite similar through the early heart phase. As vintage Captain Molyneux is a "Top 10" caliber composition to this reviewer, any comparison with that masterpiece should be taken as the highest compliment. That said, if Revillon pour Homme merely cloned that earlier 70s masterpiece it would be notable as smelling amazing, but potentially unnecessary if you already owned vintage Captain. Once you get further into the heart phase of the composition it is clear that Revillon pour Homme is no Captain clone. To the contrary, it distinguishes itself with its liberal use of coniferous fir and just a touch of sweetness and natural smelling woods to send the two compositions ultimately in different directions. There really isn't anything to gripe about save its slightly below par longevity, but when the open smells as good as the one here, consider it just another reason to experience it again if one needs to reapply late in the day. In the end if forced, I still prefer the overall top-to-bottom presentation of vintage Captain, but now having smelled Revillon pour Homme there is no way I would ever be without this additional 70's masterpiece in my collection as well. The bottom line is the discontinued approximately $150 per 120ml bottle on the aftermarket Revillon pour Homme is outside of vintage Captain Molyneux the next best thing I have sniffed out of the 70's, earning a "masterpiece" rating of 4.5 to 5 stars out of 5 and an extremely strong recommendation to all, especially oakmoss lovers.
A classic chypre with a floral twist
Vintage Artemisia, petitgrain and a high-quality lavender give he top note a good start, but it us the carnation hat gives it an extra, unusual twist that differentiates this scent from many other similar products. In the drydown other floral components are added, with a nice wood note giving it a very convincing grounding. The base notes add a high-quality oakmoss and a touch of vanilla sweetness round it off nicely. Projection is limited, and the longevity with about two hours is not very good. Next to French Line, Revillon's classic fougère, this fragrance has a nice creative floral twist.
My review for Vintage Revillon Pour Homme - I was very blessed to buy a large, mint condition (with absolutely perfect juice), 8oz flacon from a private estate sale! It is classified as a Woody Chypre (and it is a classic and excellent one that is nearly impossible to find)!
Here is the pyramid:
Lavender - Artemisia - Petitgrain - Rosemary
Carnation - Geranium - Pine needle - Cinnamon
Cedarwood - Moss - Fir - Tonka
The notes are absolutely true to form. It is a wonderful and aromatic fragrance with Fir and Pine being the two predominant wood components - mixed beautifully with a soft cedar. I would say this is a "sharp" and lifted fragrance with the lavender, artemisia and carnation along with fresh-cut rosemary on the top. The petitgrain is nice here - opening with a green and slightly herbaceous citric aroma. While the cinnamon is just a hint - nothing strong, it creates a slight dusty spiciness to the overall fragrance which is perfect. The Pine needle blends in almost immediately - and this is the key to this fantastic scent. It is as if you are in the middle of a coniferous forest - standing in a beautiful field of flowers (carnation and geranium are blooming alongside the well-integrated lavender), grasses and herbs. It is so very up-lifting for the first couple of hours of wear (again, very forest-like)...nothing synthetic at all here in the slightest. I get a drydown that is wonderful and harmonious that warms up, yet stays definitive.
The Fir/Pine needle blend along with the Cedarwood in the heart and drydown are what make this woody-chypre unlike any other I have tried. The Moss is definitely present, but it is not a heavy moss. The pine and floral keep it from becoming musty. I love moss - and it was used perfectly here to add the "forest floor" to the base notes. I get the fresh-cut wood, needles and even some pine resin - but nothing is too strong here, just refreshing and spicy. The florals intermingle and refresh the olfactory senses wonderfully, but don't dominate. What I like about this Woody Chypre is that a wonderful, fresh and invigorating pine is the focus of the scent - not lavender mixed with wood. Lavender is articulated nicely but not overly used. Like the Tonka, it makes a small appearance in the evolving drydown of spice (cinnamon) and wood - adding a sense of warmth and comfort. However, it does not change the fragrance or turn it into something else. This is simply awesome vintage juice, in my humble opinion! I get about 6+ hours out of it in moderate application (it is not overly strong - another plus), yet I find myself refreshing with a couple of dabs or spritzes from a decant I made, just to get to start the pleasure over after 4 hours or so! I prefer to put smaller amounts on several times during a day of wear - similar to how I wear Vintage Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and other classic scents with rich blended notes, so I can enjoy the Top-Middle-Base transition multiple times versus putting on a large amount and having it fade throughout a day. Vintage fragrances should be admired and adorned - pause, breathe, enjoy and even write a little (so we can all learn)...and then capture the essence again while the fragrance is on you by "touching it up". I find that I pick out individual notes better that way as well. For example, the artemisia and rosemary are very key here - I noticed that after a couple of wearings (each with at least two or more light applications). Those components really bring the herbal notes together in this masterful juice. I can now pick them out when I wear this very easily.
Revillon Pour Homme may be one that strikes some of you, at first, as a little different (as it is rather unique, but of truly great quality). It took me just two hours into wearing it for the first time to realize how good it is - I was in awe. To compare, I prefer this over Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme - period. I wore the two side-by-side. A small caveat - I love Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme (reformulation is a different story). However, this is a gem from yesteryear that offers a lot of olfactory pleasure!
I would rank this Vintage bottle of Revillon Pour Homme a shining 9+/10 - quantitatively, but it is to me, sublime and the qualities make the fractional score meaningless! Revillon Pour Homme is stunning, spicy and so intricately woven and harmonious...gorgeous! If I ever come across another flacon like it, I would be so grateful and pay virtually whatever was being asked - as this was preserved perfectly. Cheers!
26th February, 2012 (last edited: 30th October, 2013)
It shares an affinity with Alain Delon (his first cologne for men in 1980). Delon must have gotten his inspiration from this scent. A shame they discontinued both scents.