Sultan Safran / Safranier (1996)
by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

I bought Sultan Safran blind, and it does smell pretty good, and has excellent longevity.

However, I am somewhat disappointed because it's really not particularly masculine in any way that I can detect. This may not be the fault of the manufacturer who I don't know ever claimed that it was masculine, but of the internet retailers who pretty much universally put it in the Men's section. To me it's a unisex scent, and I just don't go for them all that much.

As a unisex scent I'd give it a thumbs up. But as a masculine scent my rating is neutral.

Renato

I happen to like saffron, so I guess I'm predisposed to a favorable review of Safranier. The top is nice, citrusy and green; then the saffron, flowers and sweet spices declare this to be an unabashed oriental. The woody musk drydown is the perfect grounding for the other notes.

This is rather sweet and spicy, but not overly floral, in spite of the heart notes. It's soft and quietly elegant. the only drawback is that it doesn't develop a lot of sillage on me, and it becomes more muted as it progresses. Still, all in all, it's quite a good scent.

Top: bergamot, green mandarin
Mid: saffron, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, nutmeg, cinnamon leaf
Base: patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, musk
Well, I will offer a very enthusiastic endorsement of Safranier! I think this is a marvelously dry and slightly spicy wood scent. The citrus opening is lovely but for me, quite brief. The middle is what I would call a spicy floral (emphasis on the spice) and is well integrated. The spices are dusty, dusky, woody and quite attractive. They blend together well. The base starts with creamy sandalwood. That remains at the centre, and is supported by dry and restrained patchouli. A bit of cedar freshens and adds complexity, and musk softens. But the sandalwood endures, and is excellent and not sharp as it sometimes is in scents. I like this very much.

Strong and saffron spicy in the opening, and with the florals from the middle, it’s a potent delivery, which has little refinement or balance IMO. Since I’m not a fan of saffron in fragrances, it’s way too much for me. The middle accord continues the saffron note as the florals get stronger – the florals are strong and heady and make the heart notes even less desirable than the top. As with several other CSP fragrances, the whole top and middle have a synthetic ambiance. By the time the base shows up; I am really ready for a switch from the saffron; and the switch comes in the form of a very nice but too weak wood / musk base. NOW they decide to get a little discreet! I personally find this fragrance gaudy and annoying, but it might be a nice one for someone who loves saffron, just don’t wear it around me.

As the name suggests, there's a discernible saffron note all the way through. If you like saffron, this one does it well (with a nice woodsy, citrus feel), but if you don't, then you probably want to avoid this one. Unfortunately, it appears that this one is discontinued, but if you can find a bottle, it is definitely worth the buy and a nice, soft, yet distinctive scent for daywear.

Not an easy one to get the nose around. Spice with a heavy dose of safron, and with a steady note of woods at the bottom. Not one that would seem easily suited to office wear, unless you are quite adventurous. Similar in style, though not scent, to Rochas' Macassar, it may be one that is more respected than loved. Or it could just be that it takes numerous wearings to take its full measure.