Perfume Directory

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus (2000)
by Comme des Garçons


parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus information

Year of Launch2000
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 84 votes)

People and companies

HouseComme des Garçons
PerfumerBertrand Duchaufour
PackagingRei Kawakubo
PackagingMarc Atlan

About parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus

Leaves' is the first in a series of fragrance collections by Commes des Garcons.

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus fragrance notes

Reviews of parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus

Comme des Garcons Calamus is a "bamboo based" green (or better...musky) concoction with a plain vegetal fleeting aura, a central mild-floral synthetic muskiness and a touch of soapiness. Frankly I dont find at all this juice refreshing (celery grains and angelica root fail in order to provide a veritable freshly botanic vibe) and on the contrary it seems to miss on my skin a really green-fresh or woodsy aromatic feel. I catch by soon the bamboo's "languid" influence (somewhat mineral, suave, mild, vaguely ozonic, floral, fluidy, "peaceful") which smells delicate, musky, vaguely lacteous-lymphatic and rosey. The greeness is just initial and it seems by soon floral and vaguely edible-culinary. My perception (after the ephemeral green opening) is by soon the one to catch anyway a typically synthetic/chic soapy-musky-rosey "atmosphere" (vaguely a la Eliee Saab Le Parfum) on my skin and a combination of synthetic ethereal (somewhat rosey) balmy notes, a touch of vegetal undiscerned "syrup" and patchouli. Is pretty perfect what rogalal writes before which I'm respectfully going to quote " It's naturalistic but doesn't smell like anything in nature. It's chemical but still smells like something alive". The dry down is flat and with a poor structure despite still suave and deliciously soapy-floral (a water-lily's presence?). Calamus seems a fragrance heralding a pure platonic love in the futuristic age of soul perdition, its aroma is evocative about left back diaphanous instants of purity emerging up from your fairy babyhood. Poor longevity on my skin.
23rd May, 2015
There's something about Calamus that's just indescribable. It's a green smell, but also very milky, giving the impression of breaking open an aloe vera or iceplant leaf, all filled with goo. But then, it's also surrounded by a haze of hot plastic, like the odor given off by an overheating piece of office equipment. And then it's also sweaty, juxtaposing the green leaves with an odd human component.

It's naturalistic, but doesn't smell like anything in nature. It's chemical, but still smells like something alive.

I just can't stop sniffing Calamus because I find it so intriguing, even though I don't particularly think it smells good. I guess I enjoy its confident chaos.
28th February, 2015
A most appealing simple scent – Calamus smells of the pith of something pale green and succulent, like cut aloe vera or a marsh reed. It’s soft as a whisper, it’s gorgeous and comforting, and has baby milk on its breath as well as the lightest of green herbals. The angelica in the notes list has the starring role but in such a fuzzy, airy manner, it merges into the languid chord this creation strikes and holds for its duration. Calamus seems to be the scent of a world at peace with itself, a version of green nature that is entirely without thorns, calm and reassuring.
Just the thing for a hot day, just the thing to wear at home and be untroubled. Its big problem is just how sheer it is; many will complain that it is too soft. But conversely, a more forceful presentation would likely have robbed it of its gentle character.
06th February, 2015
Calamus is a really peculiar scent indeed, which I would have never defined "green" if it wasn't for the composition I read. What I smell is an odd, archaic but at the same time futuristic sort of dystopian odor of stones, abstract woods, cellulose, grass but not in a usual "rich/wet/freshly-cut" meaning, rather close to a sort of blurry souvenir of grass, the kind of smell that takes you back to a walk in the park or a nap on a lawn, simultaneously terrifically realistic but with a shade of "glow", like an old photograph. There is a grey and austere dryness all over, almost "zen" in a way, dry as the surface of a centuries-old polished stone. Poetic and gloomy. Not much else except a really subtle floral breeze which give a delicate sense of silky cleanliness, and a general, almost alienating feel halfway milky, mineral, abstract, grassy and lacustrine. However don't be afraid of smelling "weird"; Calamus is in fact really delicate and close to skin, a sort of grey-green version of other CdG's like Odeur 53, just less artificial. So even if it's a bit peculiar, basically only you will smell it. A really interesting work, but as a perfume "to be worn" I don't find it particularly great: it's much linear with basically no evolution, really delicate, not exactly (conventionally, perhaps) pleasant – as you basically smell of stones, grass and woods, in no "aromatic" meaning. In other words, after a while it gets increasingly boring and with not much to "tell", but nonetheless it is worth a try.

14th August, 2014
Genre: Green

Bertrand Duchaufour rarely composes a green fragrance, so Calamus is an item of particular interest to me. It comes on as a very bright green scent indeed with tart citric notes and just a hint of camphor. This opening is extremely refreshing - maybe even a bit sharp. The citric note, which I take for the rose hips listed in the pyramid, soon sorts itself out, and the central accord emerges as a brisk, unsweetened green that's simple, clean, and unpretentious. It's also blessedly free of the now commonplace ozone-aquatic notes. Calamus is olfactory minimalism of a high order and offers a pleasant alternative to all the vapid "fresh" scents crowding today's designer fragrance market. Delightful!
11th June, 2014
As a fan of green scents, I've long wanted to try this. I was deeply disappointed in it.
It starts with a very leafy and grassy note -- quite intense and more of an experience than an attractive scent per se. Then, and very quickly, it got intensely sweet, cloying, fusty, odd and unpleasant. I don't know what on earth it smelled like but whatever it was, I did not like it at all and had to wash it off.
26th July, 2012

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