For me, this scent is plain *odd*. Odd – nearly weird – opening, odd evolution. The opening is a striking circus of woods, floral notes, pungent herbal notes, all wrapped into a creamy-powdery frame; I get ginger, sandalwood, cedar, something mossy underneath, “barbershop” flowers (carnation and lavender), bittersweet pungent herbs, powdery heliotrope, a whole spicy accord (the sweet type – cinnamon and tonka above all), musk, a smoky feel... complex to say the least. I wouldn’t say this smells completely wrong, as it kind of works (*kind of*), but the first minutes sound honestly a bit messy to me. Like a bunch of different perfumes fighting under your nose to get your attention. Apparently finally all voices manage to tune in on the same tones, still a bit clumsily but decently overall, and Signature focuses on a warm, mellow, smooth powdery-spicy-ambery-barbershop blend of sweet spices, heliotrope, amber, woods, greenish hints and the combo carnation & lavender. So try to imagine a bridge connecting some late ‘80s - early ‘90s classic masculine scents like Zino Davidoff or Heritage, with early 2000s trends in masculine perfumery – a more transparent texture, incense, creamy-powdery notes. Fascinating and even a bit nice, but... I don’t get why, but something seems wrong here for me. Not all the fragrance, but some parts of it. Maybe the juxtaposition isn’t that well enginereed, but I feel something smells just out of place, thus disturbing the overall harmony. It’s like an amateur chorus at their first rehearsal day – cacophonic at first, somehow barely decent at the end of the day, surely not ready yet for a Deutsche Grammophon recording session. Or whatever else; for some reasons, I can’t truly like Signature despite I like many nuances here. It’s like if they aren’t meant to be in the same bottle. However aside from this, the scent itself seems good quality, many notes smell rich and really nice, so I wouldn’t define this a “cheap” scent overall. Just partially, or maybe I don’t get it and it’s fantastic instead. By the way this doesn’t smell that similar either to Envy Men or Carven Homme to me, there’s just a bit of creamy woods and spices but also so much more here (and not in a positive meaning).
Got a small (30ml) bottle a week before Christmas, due to its good price and the reviews read all over.
An elegant oriental fragrance that features (on my skin) mostly its flowery spicy-balsamic-ambery notes, in this order. Less vanilic/flowery than Jaipur PH and more spicy-ambery than Jacomo for Men. Heliotrope, birch, incense and benzoin are also present but more in the background, giving to the whole a nice sweet-balsamic support. Pretty linear development from the spicy semi-aromatic top to the creamy-ambery drydown, good for close encounters and cold weather on special occasions. My rank 7.7/10
I enjoyed sampling Signature immensely. It remindes me immediately of a flowerless Carven Homme (one of my very favorite Orientals). The cottony sweetness in the opening also brings to mind Escada's Casual Friday It's sweeter than I would prefer in the first hour but the burnt-sugar-on-birchwood drydown that follows is super pleasant. Signature doesn't last particularly long, nor is it composed of particularly high-quality ingredients, but it is superbly blended and a true delight to wear (though the sweetness can be tiresome at times). With Carven and Casual Friday becoming more scarce by the day it's comforting to know there's another scent that can scratch that itch. Thumbs and toes way up.
This really shines in the first three hours, but then it cools off and becomes a minty-chalky mediocre fragrance. Technically the transition is gradual, but by three hours in SPH is no longer a contender. It's a case of the top notes seriously outperforming the bottom notes, and I don't really have room in my collection for that. I'm also kind of glad that I'm not crazy about it because it's been discontinued and the price is through the roof for the remaining stock. I tend to get crazy over discontinued things that I really like.
I've heard people compare this to Gucci Envy and Carven Homme, and I can actually attest to the later comparison, so you've got accessible, and better, alternatives.
I don't know how to describe fragrances note by note. But this smells EXACTLY like GUCCI Envy for men. IDENTICAL. They're also both powerhouse fragrances so the scent lingers on the skin for a long time. Unfortunately they both made me nauseated for some reason. I've learned my lesson on not buying fragrances solely based on reviews here because olfaction is truly a very personal thing.