Signor Vivara (1970)
by Emilio Pucci

The leather isn't quite as strong initially as it is in The Knize Ten, though it's certainly strong. It's also got a strong spice note (seems to be mostly cinnamon), and it's a little sweet. It also has that same full, rich, and powdery quality. Though it seems to have some oakmoss, I think it's got more of a sandalwood than oakmoss accompaniment to the leather (than K10). And while it seems to have patchouli, it doesn't go into that heavy patchouli/wood/amber cream accord that I find so revolting for some reason. Unlike K10, I don't detect castoreum here, nor any other clear animalic note. Longevity is at least good and projection/"sillage" is solid but not overpowering. If you find The Knize Ten to be unbalanced, this would be one to try, though it seems to be very rare. I should do a side-by-side comparison with Gomma by Etro, but you get the idea: this one is in that leather fragrance territory. Also, it's quite natural smelling and nicely balanced.

3rd July, 2011.