Many scents jump gradually on my mind while testing on skin this dignified fragrance (subtle, fresh, spicy, light): Eau de Rochas (basically in its freshly aromatic and spicy-sparkling opening), Cartier Declaration (due the opening with its accord of cardamom, rosemary, bergamot, coriander but the Cartier's one is more specifically fluidy-piquant, cardamom/cumin centered, and airy but basically less floral and less smoky-amberish), Trussardi Action Uomo (the artemisia/lavender/coriander accord), Armani Classic Pour Homme (lemon, woods, musk, spices in the Pellegrino's old masterpiece and either in the new recent version), Cerruti 1881 Men (the scent more markedly jumping on mind along the St Dupont Homme's opening with its aromatic elements as coriander, lavender, rosemary and its sharp floral notes), Guerlain Coriolan (bacause of its woody-floral rendition but the Guerlain's one is less spicy, less tart, more massive, herbal, finally semi-oriental and leatherish), and Bvlgari Man Extreme (citrus, aromatic spices and finally the lacteous/lemony fresh woodiness, vetiver in particular). I detect indeed a nowadays mainstream lacteous-lemony woody (basically cedary and vaguely gassy) undertone that we can currently experience in a notable amount of modern issues (from Bvlgari, Armani etc). Along dry down the differences with Declaration Cartier appear more catchable since St Dupont Homme smells more woodsy, herbal and vaguely smoky, surely (and paradoxically) a more "muscular" type of "light" fragrance. Actually the aroma evolves significantly running from the top to the woodsier dry down. Orris roots (connected with woody and herbal patterns) enhance the "wilder/crispier" side of the composition while violet leaves provide an intensely floral melancholic spark a la Canali Man.
Dry down is warm, spicy, crispy/ambery and woodsy-herbal, something more massive, virile, dark and comforting in comparison with the fresher and more aereal/citric-aromatic (fluidy spicy and Declaration-conjuring) opening. Nothing particularly innovative or groundbreaking but surely a solid piece of fragrance for us.
I bought this blind, for a song, from 'that auction site' after reading Colin Maillard's review and I am not disappointed. It helps that I am a sucker for Declaration and its many variants, descendants and predecessors, so it wasn't much of a gamble for me.
The similarity to Declaration is unmistakeable but there are a few differences which make this a worthwhile addition. Colin refers to violets and iris, with something like a faint rose note in the drydown. I share all these impressions; the violets are especially prominent and perhaps that and iris render the scent a tad soapy and powdery. There's less citrus and more cedar than in Declaration. Some ozone-type note reminded me at different times of Erolfa and Horizon.
The overall effect is to make this scent warmer, fuzzier, more rounded and approachable than Declaration but possibly less distinctive (caveat: if you really dislike Declaration's spices, you probably won't like this, as they have not been completely neutered).
The only negative is a lack of potency, compared to Declaration et al. I find it needs a good 10 sprays to achieve decent projection, although longevity is perfectly adequate. Buy the bigger bottle, it's very inexpensive.
In summary a very pleasant scent which shall sit comfortably in my little Declaration family, without ousting any of the established members.
A really nice surprise to say the least. I have tried some other S.T. Dupont’s fragrances and they all seemed just a tad below mediocre for me, except the barely-decent Signature and the quite decent Intense version of Homme. But this one is definitely good instead. Briefly said, it is a sort of brighter, more floral and at the same time, more smoky version of Cartier’s Declaration, less heavy exactly where I wished Declaration to be so – that is, less heavy on spices, mostly cardamom (can’t really stand that in such strong doses) and cumin. Less spicy, less (for me) overwhelmingly linear and bold – less boring too, honestly. Basically a quite better version of Declaration, for my tastes. It smells more breezy, more fresh, slightly greener but also more smooth in a dark, smoky way. I think there is some iris or violet here, as I clearly get a really pleasant touch of something soft and slightly powdery. Plus, on the drydown it pops out a really enjoyable whiff of something fruity-musky, a bit like rose but more fruity and less floral. Fresh, crisp and refined, highly wearable, classy in an “informal” and versatile way, totally solid and well made for me. It would make a really decent and totally inexpensive signature scent. Recommended!
Cartier's lesser known sibling, and my Cartier I mean almost any of the earlier releases for men, that sport the 'beef jerky' accord, noted by some as the 'armpit' smell. Cumin is to blame for this, and while rocking this I realised you can do cumin well in a fragrance. Where the Cartier (Must de Cartier) for example fails, STD shines (no pun) in that it is drier and less pungent, lying under a veil of sparkling silver. I would rather wear this thatn the Cartier. Still, it works best in cooler wether and more casual than not.
Today I had a chance to test this.
In a word I can say it IS Declaration by Cartier! But consider less sillage and longevity.
I myself think can not differentiate it from Declaration when my colleague has put it on!
In brief, for the price it's quite reasonable to give it a thumbs up...
This opens with light but acrid herbal grasses, and it takes a while for the alcohol to dissipate. It starts to get a bit greener and sharper with maybe a little patchouli, and doesn't have the slightest amount of sweetness at all. While it doesn't actually smell like cigarette smoke, it accomplishes the same effect with dirty florals and tobacco leaves. For practical purposes, it's way too likely to come across as sweaty; the musty herbal barrage is unrelenting, and fetid wood develops later on to join it. I honestly wonder if my sample vial had gone bad.